Wheel backspacing (again)
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 500
Likes: 1
From: Philadelphia PA
Wheel backspacing (again)
Ok.
Our C-3 ralley wheel spacing to me looks like 4.75" with a built in 1" spacer, if I could describe it that way, as the bolt area is in-spaced 1".
With that said, new aluminum racing rims (like weld prostars) with 4.75" backspacing --most of them have a flat 4.75" bolt area/backspace. So therefore, would i just a add in a 1" spacer?
Thanks.
Our C-3 ralley wheel spacing to me looks like 4.75" with a built in 1" spacer, if I could describe it that way, as the bolt area is in-spaced 1".
With that said, new aluminum racing rims (like weld prostars) with 4.75" backspacing --most of them have a flat 4.75" bolt area/backspace. So therefore, would i just a add in a 1" spacer?
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
OK, first off, we gotta keep our term CLEAR, a wheel 'spacer' like those thin castings on a typical speed shop/AZ shelf are dangerous as hell...
second off, an actual what you call 'spacer' is referred to by VBP and others as an ADAPTOR, in that to get the rotor off the hub, you need remove TEN lug nuts....they are interleaved in the pattern, making the adaptor one with the hub/rotor, then the wheel with the hub....visible from the installed position....
TWO entirely differant animals.....
second off, if you examine the t arms you find the limiting factor is typically the STOCK Ebrake/shroud position...it has to be moved from behind the tire....
second off, to a STOCK t arm...OR stock sway bar, you have only 3/4 inch to the INSIDE measurement for wheel width, AND keep the same WHEEL CENTERLINE....you mess with bearing/hub offsets and you chance way premature bearing failure from being constantly stressed out....that's IMO, and I sticking with it....
so that limits you to an effective wheel width of 9.5 inches maybe ten even if you really want to rub the ghost....now
yes, if you eliminate the stockish sway bars, and get offset t arms you can go wider, you have allmost another inch to the frame but without something for a rear bar, it seems moot for a street machine....
if you want sticky Mickeys on the rear,....go solid axel and have over with it....called 'tubbing'....
second off, an actual what you call 'spacer' is referred to by VBP and others as an ADAPTOR, in that to get the rotor off the hub, you need remove TEN lug nuts....they are interleaved in the pattern, making the adaptor one with the hub/rotor, then the wheel with the hub....visible from the installed position....
TWO entirely differant animals.....
second off, if you examine the t arms you find the limiting factor is typically the STOCK Ebrake/shroud position...it has to be moved from behind the tire....
second off, to a STOCK t arm...OR stock sway bar, you have only 3/4 inch to the INSIDE measurement for wheel width, AND keep the same WHEEL CENTERLINE....you mess with bearing/hub offsets and you chance way premature bearing failure from being constantly stressed out....that's IMO, and I sticking with it....
so that limits you to an effective wheel width of 9.5 inches maybe ten even if you really want to rub the ghost....now
yes, if you eliminate the stockish sway bars, and get offset t arms you can go wider, you have allmost another inch to the frame but without something for a rear bar, it seems moot for a street machine....
if you want sticky Mickeys on the rear,....go solid axel and have over with it....called 'tubbing'....
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
My 17x9 wheels have 5" of backspacing and I have to use a 1/4" spacer in the back to clear the calipers. Using small spacers up to like 1/2" won't really hurt anything. However my wheels are steel so they more or less bond with the studs, instead of breaking them.
I've modified my parking brake cable bracket and had it moved to the top of the trailing arm, instead of the side. Makes fitting fatter tires MUCH easier.
Hope that helps.
I've modified my parking brake cable bracket and had it moved to the top of the trailing arm, instead of the side. Makes fitting fatter tires MUCH easier.
Hope that helps.
