mechanical fuel pump
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Des moines Iowa
mechanical fuel pump
I pulled the fuel pump off my 350 last night. I am trying to fiqure out how they work. It says on the new fuel pump instructions to grease the fuel pump cavity? and it says you can put litheum grease on the pushrod end that touches the cam to help hold it in place. Ok, so no oil goes into the hole where the fuel pump is mounted? And won't litheum grease get in the oil buy touching the camshaft? I am confused! I still have'nt got the new one installed, I tried but I had a heck of a time with the pushrod and when it sat underneath it like its supposed to the pump was'nt sitting flush do I start the bolts and let them pull it flush??
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
That arm is under pressure while it's in contact with the cam lobe and flush with the block.
For an easier time rotate the motor a quarter turn by hand and try again. Repeat until it's a little easier but you will have to work it a bit.
For an easier time rotate the motor a quarter turn by hand and try again. Repeat until it's a little easier but you will have to work it a bit.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 366
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Did this about a year ago.
You can either put a bolt through the front of the block and finger tighten against the rod to hold it, or use a hacksaw blade (turned flat) to hold the rod as you place the pump arm against it. Oil will run down the rod trough when the engine is running which is why it leaks from the front of the block if the bolt hole is left open. If you used the bolt method to hold the rod, take the bolt out and replace with a shorter one once the pump is bolted on.
Grease the lever arm mechanism. I don't think there is enough oil pressure to flush any grease, I haven't seen any in the oil after any oil change since.
You can either put a bolt through the front of the block and finger tighten against the rod to hold it, or use a hacksaw blade (turned flat) to hold the rod as you place the pump arm against it. Oil will run down the rod trough when the engine is running which is why it leaks from the front of the block if the bolt hole is left open. If you used the bolt method to hold the rod, take the bolt out and replace with a shorter one once the pump is bolted on.
Grease the lever arm mechanism. I don't think there is enough oil pressure to flush any grease, I haven't seen any in the oil after any oil change since.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
I'm confused
G'day,
Funny, I thought all '82 Vettes had TBI and therefore an electric fuel pump in the tank. Unless an earlier motor is fitted and in that case, the long bolt/short bolt tip is a good one. Also, turning the engine until the pushrod is on the "backside" of the pump cam is good advice.
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
Funny, I thought all '82 Vettes had TBI and therefore an electric fuel pump in the tank. Unless an earlier motor is fitted and in that case, the long bolt/short bolt tip is a good one. Also, turning the engine until the pushrod is on the "backside" of the pump cam is good advice.
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Kev,
Its easy. Turn the engine over so you can get the piston up as high as possible. Try the piston...see how far up it goes. Try the pump so you know how to manuover it with out the piston. Then put some grease on the side of the piston and push it up. Immedialtely after position the piston position the pump. Put the bolts in and start tightening. There should be a bit of resitance and the bolts will take up the gap as you tighten. Its spring loaded after all. There is no play between the piston rod and pump lever but silght compression when the piston is in the up position...much more when its not.
Jim
Its easy. Turn the engine over so you can get the piston up as high as possible. Try the piston...see how far up it goes. Try the pump so you know how to manuover it with out the piston. Then put some grease on the side of the piston and push it up. Immedialtely after position the piston position the pump. Put the bolts in and start tightening. There should be a bit of resitance and the bolts will take up the gap as you tighten. Its spring loaded after all. There is no play between the piston rod and pump lever but silght compression when the piston is in the up position...much more when its not.
Jim
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
If your still fighting it this thread might help.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...fuel+pump+tool
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...fuel+pump+tool
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Bovingdon Hertfordshire
Did this about a year ago.
You can either put a bolt through the front of the block and finger tighten against the rod to hold it, or use a hacksaw blade (turned flat) to hold the rod as you place the pump arm against it. Oil will run down the rod trough when the engine is running which is why it leaks from the front of the block if the bolt hole is left open. If you used the bolt method to hold the rod, take the bolt out and replace with a shorter one once the pump is bolted on.
You can either put a bolt through the front of the block and finger tighten against the rod to hold it, or use a hacksaw blade (turned flat) to hold the rod as you place the pump arm against it. Oil will run down the rod trough when the engine is running which is why it leaks from the front of the block if the bolt hole is left open. If you used the bolt method to hold the rod, take the bolt out and replace with a shorter one once the pump is bolted on.
I've got a '74 with a '87 Goodwrench Crate Engine in it.
I've had a good look for this bolt (yes I know where is supposed to be within a few inches).
There are a couple of threaded holes up the front there, but they are all blind.
Is this a casting issue - or am I looking in the wrong place
(I'm looking on the front of the block in line with the push-rod)
Cheers,
Photo might help.....
Jeremy.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Hi Guys,
I've got a '74 with a '87 Goodwrench Crate Engine in it.
I've had a good look for this bolt (yes I know where is supposed to be within a few inches).
There are a couple of threaded holes up the front there, but they are all blind.
Is this a casting issue - or am I looking in the wrong place
(I'm looking on the front of the block in line with the push-rod)
Cheers,
Photo might help.....
Jeremy.
I've got a '74 with a '87 Goodwrench Crate Engine in it.
I've had a good look for this bolt (yes I know where is supposed to be within a few inches).
There are a couple of threaded holes up the front there, but they are all blind.
Is this a casting issue - or am I looking in the wrong place
(I'm looking on the front of the block in line with the push-rod)
Cheers,
Photo might help.....
Jeremy.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Bovingdon Hertfordshire
My work browser does allow me to see Photobucket stuff.
Any chance of PMing me the piccy or posting it direct to a reply.
Sorry to be a PITA.
J.
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 445
Likes: 1
Kev,
Its easy. Turn the engine over so you can get the piston up as high as possible. Try the piston...see how far up it goes. Try the pump so you know how to manuover it with out the piston. Then put some grease on the side of the piston and push it up. Immedialtely after position the piston position the pump. Put the bolts in and start tightening. There should be a bit of resitance and the bolts will take up the gap as you tighten. Its spring loaded after all. There is no play between the piston rod and pump lever but silght compression when the piston is in the up position...much more when its not.
Jim
Its easy. Turn the engine over so you can get the piston up as high as possible. Try the piston...see how far up it goes. Try the pump so you know how to manuover it with out the piston. Then put some grease on the side of the piston and push it up. Immedialtely after position the piston position the pump. Put the bolts in and start tightening. There should be a bit of resitance and the bolts will take up the gap as you tighten. Its spring loaded after all. There is no play between the piston rod and pump lever but silght compression when the piston is in the up position...much more when its not.
Jim
I'm trying to replace my pump today and need to know how far up will the piston go. I have it about halt the length of the piston, is this far enough to get the pump in place?
