What can I do with a high temperature problem?
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
What can I do with a high temperature problem?
Hello everyone and thanks for your time.
I have a C3 vette and I'm currently living in the Middle East where the temperatures are always above 120F.
Driving around with the AC on full blast and traffic everywhere I get really high tempratures which I don't know what to do about.
I was wondering if you could sort of list all the options for me to have a cooler running engine, what do I have to do? what do I have to replace? what is my best option?
Any information would be very much appreciated.
Thanking you all in advance.
Mohammad Reza.
I have a C3 vette and I'm currently living in the Middle East where the temperatures are always above 120F.
Driving around with the AC on full blast and traffic everywhere I get really high tempratures which I don't know what to do about.
I was wondering if you could sort of list all the options for me to have a cooler running engine, what do I have to do? what do I have to replace? what is my best option?
Any information would be very much appreciated.
Thanking you all in advance.
Mohammad Reza.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
If it's a stock thermostat, it's probably a 195* stat....you could put in a 165* stat (I would pull the stat right out, but I won't suggest that as the debate will start again about the good and bad of doing that)...make sure all you radiator seals are there and working, not worn or gone....make sure you're using anti-freeze not plain water, altho the a-freeze is for cold weather, it will also help in the hot climates over water and there may be an additive to help remove more heat, others may know....and of course, make sure the radiator is circulating properly, pump belt is tight, front air damn is on the car, nothing restricting air thru the radiator...just my 2 cents, I'm SURE others will add on...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
In addition to what KB says I would get a good aluminum radiator and electric fan setup. I just installed the Dewits fan on a members Dewit radiator ant it worked great, his doesn't even have seals in it, but should.
Antifreeze also helps prevent rust and corrosion so run at least a 50/50 mix. The air dam will make more difference than you would believe as will the seals. The thermostat sets the minimum operating temp for the engine, 195* is to high IMHO and 165* is to low, 180* seems to be about right, a new one now and then is a good idea. Drill a 1/32 hole in it to let the air bleed past it.
The Dewits direct fit rad and fan setup looks good, installs with no problems and works great, the down side is $$. You can put together a perfectly functioning setup on your own for roughly half the price but it takes some work, so your choice
Antifreeze also helps prevent rust and corrosion so run at least a 50/50 mix. The air dam will make more difference than you would believe as will the seals. The thermostat sets the minimum operating temp for the engine, 195* is to high IMHO and 165* is to low, 180* seems to be about right, a new one now and then is a good idea. Drill a 1/32 hole in it to let the air bleed past it.
The Dewits direct fit rad and fan setup looks good, installs with no problems and works great, the down side is $$. You can put together a perfectly functioning setup on your own for roughly half the price but it takes some work, so your choice
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
i second the Dewitt's set-up with electric fans. very nice unit. also there is a product called water wetter. it allows the coolant to adhear to the metal of the engine block instead of allowing micro bubbles to form between the metal and the fluid. this makes the transfer of heat much more effecient both in the motor and in the radiator for cooling. if you can't afford the Dewitt's kit ($1000.00 US plus shipping) then look for some junk yards. find some Ford Taurus cars from the mid to late 90's. they have killer electric fans that bolt directly to the radiator. then get a power relay kit, fan mounting kit (plastic bolts through the radiator fins) and a thermoswitch from Summit, Painless Wiring, Jeg's, make your own, etc. etc. the best part about electric fans, you don't need the front air dam. going the junk yard route with Ford fans is kinda cheesy, but it will be done and cost only $200.00 US tops. and of course you will be able to loose the fan clutch and fan off the water pump and free up some HP to put to the tires.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
I'm in Florida and it's pretty hot here... My yellow '68 is running 190 degrees or less even on the hottest summer day in stop and go traffic..
My solution was very inexpensive:
$159 for a universal Griffin Radiator
$45 for a high volume Pro Comp water pump (+35% flow)
$100 for a 2950 cfm Permacool fan. There is a even better fan available that flows 4500 cfm and it's only $120 (also Pro Comp)
I'd also go with a 160 degree termostat..
Total cost for parts should be about $350. However, the shipping to the Middle East won't be too cheap..
I got most of my parts off Ebay and I'm very pleased with the value and performance of those parts..
If you have a automatic transmission, I'd also recommend to run a external heat sink design transmission cooler (double pass). Those coolers are mounted away from the radiator.. The hot tranny fluid in the radiator reduces the efficiency of the radiator. If you run a external cooler (away from the radiator), both, transmission as also coolant will be cooler..
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1677197
I do run Destilled water and Water Wetter in my radiators for years and it works great..
My solution was very inexpensive:
$159 for a universal Griffin Radiator
$45 for a high volume Pro Comp water pump (+35% flow)
$100 for a 2950 cfm Permacool fan. There is a even better fan available that flows 4500 cfm and it's only $120 (also Pro Comp)
I'd also go with a 160 degree termostat..
Total cost for parts should be about $350. However, the shipping to the Middle East won't be too cheap..
I got most of my parts off Ebay and I'm very pleased with the value and performance of those parts..
If you have a automatic transmission, I'd also recommend to run a external heat sink design transmission cooler (double pass). Those coolers are mounted away from the radiator.. The hot tranny fluid in the radiator reduces the efficiency of the radiator. If you run a external cooler (away from the radiator), both, transmission as also coolant will be cooler..
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1677197
I do run Destilled water and Water Wetter in my radiators for years and it works great..
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Jun 10, 2007 at 10:45 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 842
Likes: 3
From: Woodruff SC
St. Jude Donor '10
In addition to what KB says I would get a good aluminum radiator and electric fan setup. I just installed the Dewits fan on a members Dewit radiator ant it worked great, his doesn't even have seals in it, but should.
Antifreeze also helps prevent rust and corrosion so run at least a 50/50 mix. The air dam will make more difference than you would believe as will the seals. The thermostat sets the minimum operating temp for the engine, 195* is to high IMHO and 165* is to low, 180* seems to be about right, a new one now and then is a good idea. Drill a 1/32 hole in it to let the air bleed past it. The Dewits direct fit rad and fan setup looks good, installs with no problems and works great, the down side is $$. You can put together a perfectly functioning setup on your own for roughly half the price but it takes some work, so your choice
Antifreeze also helps prevent rust and corrosion so run at least a 50/50 mix. The air dam will make more difference than you would believe as will the seals. The thermostat sets the minimum operating temp for the engine, 195* is to high IMHO and 165* is to low, 180* seems to be about right, a new one now and then is a good idea. Drill a 1/32 hole in it to let the air bleed past it. The Dewits direct fit rad and fan setup looks good, installs with no problems and works great, the down side is $$. You can put together a perfectly functioning setup on your own for roughly half the price but it takes some work, so your choice
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Glycol-based antifreeze provides significantly less efficient heat transfer properties than water. Unless you're going to encounter cold temps anytime soon, stright distilled water plus an additive such as Red Line's Water Wetter or 40* Below would be a better "coolant" solution.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Glycol-based antifreeze provides significantly less efficient heat transfer properties than water. Unless you're going to encounter cold temps anytime soon, stright distilled water plus an additive such as Red Line's Water Wetter or 40* Below would be a better "coolant" solution.
Water Wetter is great stuff if used with pure water
I use it in all my vehicles!!