Hi All,

Well, after a 1 1/2 years of a DIY frame off restoration, I have the body back on and and it roared to life about three weeks ago, I have been tweaking (with the help of my local friends) and have it running pretty good at this point I figure I'm about half way at this point and it is drive able now. Exhaust, body and interior next! I'll post some pics when I get the chance.

This is a numbers matching car but I didn't rebuild the engine (stored in the corner of the garage for future rebuild!!)
Things I've done

installed GM crate 350/290
rebuilt q-jet (had it replated, looks great)
Edlebrock 2101 proformer intake
350 turbo Trans rebuild with B&M shift kit
frame disassemable, sand blast, por-15 and a black stain finish
all new suspension (poly) tie rods, ball joints, etc.
GR-2 shocks
new and rebuilt steering (stock)
SS gas and break lines
detailed suspension parts in grey.

My question: The Battery has been draining slowly so found the battery cable to the starter was loose so I had to tighten the back nut first on the solenoid stud and as I was putting the wires back on (batt. cable first) I noticed a spark when I put the two red(both wires on one terminal) on the stud, I assume this is the ignition wires and was looking for your guidance for how and what to troubleshoot?

I have some other electrical issues such as, wiper motor shorts when plugged in, reverse lights come on when in first, etc.

Any help is appreciated

 

So if the keys and lights and everything was turned off and you got a spark when you connected the wires to the Large terminal on the starter, there is something on somewhere on the car. The test you need to do is a current leakage test. Obtain a multimeter with current reading capability. Disconnect the + battery Cable from the battery, put the + lead for the meter to the + terminal on the battery and the - lead from the meter to the battery cable. Do this with everything off, doors closed and the meter set to the 10 amp scale. The reading you get should be less than .01 amps or 100 ma.
If it is higher than that, start pulling fuses and repeat the test until it goes away.
Frequent culprits are:
The CTSY circuit, it has the interior light timer on it. Alarms depending on how its wired, Alt regulator, disconnect the connector on the side and the big red wire to isolate it.
Post pics of your meter setup and we can make sure youe set up correctly

 

Thanks Sixfooter, I'll give this a try and post pics this afternoon, I hope.

 

If you have a draw of any more than 70 ma or so with everything off, unplug the alternator. A failing internal voltage regulator will still function but cause a draw.

 

Thanks tlynam, I'll try this next. I did find after following SIXFOOTER's instructions that the ignition key buzzer had a short, I found it by touching the + cable to the battery and listening to the clicking sound under the dash(good thing I have long arms!), I just kept touching the cable to the battery until I felt the click! Sorry I didn't get a picture of the meter(I only had about 1/2 hour to work on it before the family was ready to go somewhere) but the reading was 11.88 and I didn't look close enough to see if it was miliamps(sp?) but assume it is because I can leave the car in the garage for a full day and still have battery life to start it. I'll test with the meter again this evening and get a picture of it.