Rocker studs
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 470
Likes: 1
From: Amelia Ohio
Rocker studs
I remember years ago reading and article about a cheap way 
of drilling into the side of the stud and head and inserting a pin to prevent the studs from pulling out when using a big cam and heavy springs. Is it 
or can it be done?
Chris
of drilling into the side of the stud and head and inserting a pin to prevent the studs from pulling out when using a big cam and heavy springs. Is it or can it be done?Chris
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 894
Likes: 91
Stud Pinning
In a "bind" it's better than nothing to help keep the original pressed pieces in place.
If you check with Mr. Gasket Co. the entire kit may still be available. The part number was 806. The kit included (16) 5/32" roll pins and the correct drill for the pins.
Just a tip here, try to drill the holes as high up as possible so it'll leave you, or someone else, the option of removing them at a time when possibly a "screw-in-stud" conversion is performed. If the holes are
"down low" they will not be removed when the stud boss is machine down .375" and will be prone to a water leak out the holes. If you drill them somewhere between the top of the bosses and 3/8" down you'll be good-to-go! Stay as low as possible to that dimension however so you don't sacrifice the integrity of the stud remaining in the head.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Some units built by G.M. back in the early '60's had the studs "pinned" from the factory. These were 3/8" studs using the 1.550" BB springs on the '09's.
If you check with Mr. Gasket Co. the entire kit may still be available. The part number was 806. The kit included (16) 5/32" roll pins and the correct drill for the pins.
Just a tip here, try to drill the holes as high up as possible so it'll leave you, or someone else, the option of removing them at a time when possibly a "screw-in-stud" conversion is performed. If the holes are
"down low" they will not be removed when the stud boss is machine down .375" and will be prone to a water leak out the holes. If you drill them somewhere between the top of the bosses and 3/8" down you'll be good-to-go! Stay as low as possible to that dimension however so you don't sacrifice the integrity of the stud remaining in the head.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Some units built by G.M. back in the early '60's had the studs "pinned" from the factory. These were 3/8" studs using the 1.550" BB springs on the '09's.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,465
Likes: 1,486
From: Little Rock AR
The cost to convert to screw-in studs and guideplates is not that bad so why even consider the pins?. The heads have to come off anyway so why not?
The studs are pulled out, the bosses are milled flat, and the holes in the casting are tapped. The pushrod holes are opened up at the same time. The studs/guideplates should be installed at final assembly so you can position the guideplates properly. The rocker arm tips need to be centered on top of the valve stems and the guideplates move enough to allow you some adjustment. Use locktite red to keep them from loosening.
-Mark.
The studs are pulled out, the bosses are milled flat, and the holes in the casting are tapped. The pushrod holes are opened up at the same time. The studs/guideplates should be installed at final assembly so you can position the guideplates properly. The rocker arm tips need to be centered on top of the valve stems and the guideplates move enough to allow you some adjustment. Use locktite red to keep them from loosening.
-Mark.
