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Hi, my 76 has sat for a little over one year without being driven. This past weekend I went to get it out and found I have no brakes at all. When the car went into storage it had great brakes. Anyways, we bled the brakes, checked for leaks, checked fluid level and still nothing. After that, we replaced the master cylinder, rebled the brakes, still nothing, pedel goes straight to the floor. There was no sign of leakage under the car, and I can find no fluid around any lines/calipers. I am borrowing a pressure bleeder to try tommarow and see if that helps. Also, the brake light is on at all times now inside the car. Could it be the booster? I pulled the vacume line off and the engine ran poorly when it was off. My understanding is that is a good thing. If anyone has any ideas, or advice to help me I would appriciate it alot.
I'm willing to bet you have a large air bubble trapped in both circuits and it's just moving around when you bleed. Try excessive bleeding on both front and rear circuits, and try tapping on the master, calipers, and proportioning valve with a small tack hammer or a small rubber mallet.
Did you bench bleed the new master when it went in? Meaning, did you purge all the air and prime with fluid before installing it?
Yes, forgot to add that the master cylinder was bench bled.
Okay, then my first thought is air is still in the system. Even if your booster WAS bad you would still have manual brakes to work with. It would be a hard pedal but it would still stop the car.
If there are no leaks and the fluid level in the master is okay then you probably have air trapped and that's why the BRAKE light is on.
Bleed 10 - 15 times at each wheel, and then maybe even repeat, while constantly adding fluid.
I feel like im an expert at bleeding brakes now, Ill give it a try, and if nothing else I'll change out the MC again, it is a crappy advance auto MC. It would probably pay to get a good one. After all that I've read I agree with what you said about air.
I feel like im an expert at bleeding brakes now, Ill give it a try, and if nothing else I'll change out the MC again, it is a crappy advance auto MC. It would probably pay to get a good one. After all that I've read I agree with what you said about air.
There was a thread I read a few weeks ago about a guy in a similar situation. Basically he went through 3 new master cylinders. They sit on the shelf for a long time and basically need to be rebuilt right out of the box. He also went with an OEM after the first couple aftermarkets and that solved the problem.
Good Luck.
If your brake light is on then your poportional valve is set to close off one circuit. If you lose one circuit then the pressure from the good circuit sets a plunger inside the prop valve and completes the circuit causing the light to come on. IT's a safety thing. The manual says that after you correct the problem that caused the light to come on (in your case it may be a leak that you have not found yet or a big air bubble described above) you have to give the pedal a couple of quick strokes to reseat the valve. I don't know if this will work in your case yet if your pedal is going to the floor easily. Good luck
Well, one thing that you could do (that I used to help isolate a similar problem) is to clamp off all 4 rubber brake lines with something like vise grips and a rag to protect them. This may help focus your troubleshooting by telling you whre the problem is *not* at.
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Hi atrack350. The front brakes can be bleed with the whees on, in the back you must remove the wheels to get to the outer bleeders, did you do that? PG