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Have the original 30W oil with break-in additives my 73-350 engine, it's been months. Took a while to get it running, so most of the time running was idling. Drove it around a little this past weekend. Should I keep the current oil with additives in there until I drive it some more? What are the pluses and minuses?
if its a fresh rebuild or new motor i would change the oil once after 500, again after 1000 (1500 total), and then regularly afterwards. i'm not familiar with break-in additives, ive always just used regular dino oil
I just changed the oil in my new motor. I ran it in the garage for a couple hours then drove it 3-4 miles. Then I changed it. It was pretty black, but my carb was running real rich at first so I think I had some gas in the oil.
This is more of a question than a reply but depending upon the responses it may be useful for you. I've "heard" that STP oil additive has a good amount of zinc in it and some use this as a supplement to todays standard low zinc oil. Can anyone verify this?
Can't comment on the STP, but if you want an oil additive for Zinc then a few ounces of GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) for new engine break-in is probably the best thing out there.
Rotella 15W40 is non detergent and has zinc in it and is probably the best break in oil there is.. That's what I use on my race engines for break in!
Olivier,
I've read that Rotella (old formula) is the way to go on break in, but why the thick grade? No arguing, I just wouldn't have thought to do so and I'm about to break in my new 400 so I'm very interested.
I added a bottle of Crane break-in additive, plus all the lube I put on the cam and rockers when assembling it. Sounds like it’s time to get that crap out of the engine. The engine has a 70 LT1 solid lifter cam, plan on using Castrol GTX 20-50. It’s Zinc numbers are almost as good as Rotella.
Rotella 15W-40 is what I use as a regular oil on my older (pre-roller lifter) cars. Actually it is the recommended oil by BMW for their V-12s engines too.
I've read that Rotella (old formula) is the way to go on break in, but why the thick grade? No arguing, I just wouldn't have thought to do so and I'm about to break in my new 400 so I'm very interested.
My engine builder builds tons of circle track and drag engines and I trust his suggestions. I assume that the thicker grade is used for bearing protection..
Rotella 15W-40 is what I use as a regular oil on my older (pre-roller lifter) cars. Actually it is the recommended oil by BMW for their V-12s engines too.
Rotella is great stuff but can't be used with vehicles with catalytic converters as the zinc can't be used with those..
I've been told by the counter guy at a local Chevy dealer that the GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) is simply GM's version of STP. I don't know how accurate that is, and he does have a vested interest in selling GM products, but it's his story and he's sticking to it.
My engine builder builds tons of circle track and drag engines and I trust his suggestions. I assume that the thicker grade is used for bearing protection..
My machinist said the same thing. Told me to run straight 40W on the new motor for a few thousand miles before switching to a multi-grade.
Eddie
Rotella 15W40 is non detergent and has zinc in it and is probably the best break in oil there is.. That's what I use on my race engines for break in!
That's also the oil Crane or CC (forget which) recommended in a tech bulletin they sent out awhile back. Apparently this was mainly based on the zinc content.