-8 AN fuel line
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
-8 AN fuel line
I'd like to increase my -6 AN braided fuel line to -8 AN. For those that have run -8, how did you connect it to your tank? Will -8 fit right over the barb or did you have to rig up some kind of bulkhead fitting or something?
Also, I was thinking about going with that new black hose instead of the older style braided steel line. Anybody think of a reason this is a bad idea? Does the new black braided line offer the same protection as the steel braid?
Thanks.
...edit: here's the hose I'm talking about:http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...61335_-1_10019
Also, I was thinking about going with that new black hose instead of the older style braided steel line. Anybody think of a reason this is a bad idea? Does the new black braided line offer the same protection as the steel braid?
Thanks.
...edit: here's the hose I'm talking about:http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...61335_-1_10019
Last edited by tshort; Jul 1, 2007 at 03:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 0
From: Beacon NY
So long as you are using a stock sending unit (the part that the fuel lines plug into on the gas tank), I don't see the point of increasing the fuel line from a -6 to -8.
The hole from the stock sending unit on my '79 is smaller around in diameter than a -6 line. Given that the sending unit is the smallest hole (i.e. most restictive spot for fuel flow), there is no point in increasing the fuel line size.
Anyways, I connected my -6 an line to the stock sending unit by using a 2" piece of rubber hose and a socketless to AN fitting (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku). After the fitting, I ran -6 line all the way into my pump. Just use a -8 fitting (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku) and go from there.
Hope that helps!
Victor
The hole from the stock sending unit on my '79 is smaller around in diameter than a -6 line. Given that the sending unit is the smallest hole (i.e. most restictive spot for fuel flow), there is no point in increasing the fuel line size.
Anyways, I connected my -6 an line to the stock sending unit by using a 2" piece of rubber hose and a socketless to AN fitting (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku). After the fitting, I ran -6 line all the way into my pump. Just use a -8 fitting (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku) and go from there.
Hope that helps!
Victor
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,202
Likes: 10
From: cincinnati ohio
St. Jude Donor '09
I used a -8 bulkhead fitting in the original pickup assembly. I replaced the factory sock and tube with a 1/2" aluminum pickup pipe (omitting the sock)and ran it directly to a large canister filter.
I used Areoquip socketless hose and fitting from the tank to the carbs, I really like this hose
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I used Areoquip socketless hose and fitting from the tank to the carbs, I really like this hose
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
The reason I want to go to -8 AN is 2 fold. One: I'm approaching the limit of good flow to feed 600hp. Two: the Race Pumps mechanical pump I'm using only has a -8 and -10 fitting on the inlet. Sure, I could rig up a couple of adapters to make the existing line work but I'd rather go ahead and upgrade the hose size.
So it sounds like I couldn't just push the -8 hose over the existing tank pickup barb then, huh?
So it sounds like I couldn't just push the -8 hose over the existing tank pickup barb then, huh?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,202
Likes: 10
From: cincinnati ohio
St. Jude Donor '09
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
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From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I thought you were there Oliver? At the museum, when everyone was doing the dyno pulls in the parking lot.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
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From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
I bet that Travis will make more power with -8 line..
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
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From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
Yeah, I think I've just about maxed everything out on this combination. We were VERY pleased with how well the motor pulled. I doubt w/out any major changes that I'd change the power much.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
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From: Salina Kansas
Here is what I did. STill not happy with the sump but it was up in the air too high with the sump toward the back. I think that it will be fine as long as I keep 4-5 gallons of gas in it when I launch.
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
Likes: 109
From: Peoria Az
Not to be a critic but from those pictures ,both those lines have a twist in them. Do yourself a favor and use swivel-seal ends. Iif there is too much tension on the fitting from the twist the fitting may loosen and start to seep fuel
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
I used a -8 bulkhead fitting in the original pickup assembly. I replaced the factory sock and tube with a 1/2" aluminum pickup pipe (omitting the sock)and ran it directly to a large canister filter.
I used Areoquip socketless hose and fitting from the tank to the carbs, I really like this hose
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I used Areoquip socketless hose and fitting from the tank to the carbs, I really like this hose
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
I did close to the same as yellow72.
Used aeroquip -8an braided hose from pump to tank. Blocked off the stock sending unit pickup line with 2 inches of rubber hose, a shortened bolt and some silicone. And I made a new hole in the bottom of the stock tank with a unibit and bulkhead fitting. I installed the tank, bolted everything up and found the lowest point of the tank that was accessible and put the -8an bulkhead there. Also upgraded my return line to -6an and ran another bulkhead up top.
Remember that to install a bulkhead you have to have access to both sides of the fitting meaning I had to squeeze my hand inside the tank to tighten the bulkhead nut...which is why both feed and return are close to the filler neck.
If I had thought about it more I would have done what yellow68 did with the sending unit.
You could also just take your tank (if no blatter is used) and have them weld a sump to the bottom rear of your tank and use the provided -8an fittings. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Not only does this solve your -8an fitting problem but you also have fuel baffling for racing.
btw, i used the socketless hose for my return line, very nice hose, easy to work with.
Used aeroquip -8an braided hose from pump to tank. Blocked off the stock sending unit pickup line with 2 inches of rubber hose, a shortened bolt and some silicone. And I made a new hole in the bottom of the stock tank with a unibit and bulkhead fitting. I installed the tank, bolted everything up and found the lowest point of the tank that was accessible and put the -8an bulkhead there. Also upgraded my return line to -6an and ran another bulkhead up top.
Remember that to install a bulkhead you have to have access to both sides of the fitting meaning I had to squeeze my hand inside the tank to tighten the bulkhead nut...which is why both feed and return are close to the filler neck.
If I had thought about it more I would have done what yellow68 did with the sending unit.
You could also just take your tank (if no blatter is used) and have them weld a sump to the bottom rear of your tank and use the provided -8an fittings. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Not only does this solve your -8an fitting problem but you also have fuel baffling for racing.
btw, i used the socketless hose for my return line, very nice hose, easy to work with.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
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From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Travis, why don't you have a sump welded onto the bottom of your gas tank just like Jim... I think that Jim's setup is ideal, especially for drag racing - if you want to retain the original fuel tank.... With the standard fuel tank (without sump), you will always have to keep more fuel in the tank than with sump.. because under heavy acceleration, you might get some fuel starvation if all your fuel is at the back of the tank..
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
I doubt that this would be more than $100 to have a sump welded in.. You'd just have to drop the tank and bring it to a welder. Shouldn't be too much time or effort for a experienced welder..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
You could do it like this. Also, I'd suggest the use of a hard line since it's maintainance free, then use hoses to connect the tank and the pump.
The sump is mounted like that because the other way around you can simply not install the tank anymore without either removing the body or cutting the rear crossmember. The hard line to the tank was later replaced with a flex line. The original sender/pickup is plugged on the inside and the outside and is only used for the fuel level sender.
The sump is mounted like that because the other way around you can simply not install the tank anymore without either removing the body or cutting the rear crossmember. The hard line to the tank was later replaced with a flex line. The original sender/pickup is plugged on the inside and the outside and is only used for the fuel level sender.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 8
From: Redruth Cornwall
So you guys that have used the flexible hose, are you running it from tank to pump to carb and so not using any hard lines?
Had to do a temp repair to a leaking hard line with a piece of standard rubber fuel hose but would like to replace all hard lines if possible. I had to replace the part from just above the rear wheel to just in front of the rear kickup...was a pita to get one flexible pipe in, how do you guys manage to get the return in as well? Is the outside diameter of this hose smaller than standard 3/8 rubber hose?
TIA.
Had to do a temp repair to a leaking hard line with a piece of standard rubber fuel hose but would like to replace all hard lines if possible. I had to replace the part from just above the rear wheel to just in front of the rear kickup...was a pita to get one flexible pipe in, how do you guys manage to get the return in as well? Is the outside diameter of this hose smaller than standard 3/8 rubber hose?
TIA.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,202
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From: cincinnati ohio
St. Jude Donor '09
The float needed no modifications and works as it did...