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I'm replacing a pair of 'soft copper' header gaskets that tend to leak around the two center cylinders (3/5 and 4/6). Is there any benefit from 'dressing' the surfaces of the paper gaskets with graphite or similar substance? I've heard also that soaking them (dipping) in water may help the initial sealing. I know that paper gaskets are not reusable but am finding that copper isn't so reusable either once you pull them out a couple times. I had the copper gaskets hanging in my garage for a couple years after installing some trick Earl's graphite gaskets....
Well, the full story is that the graphite on the Earl's gaskets was practically gone and there wasn't anything really sealing the headers to my cyl heads on my '80 L48... exhaust leaks once again. So, I pulled the Earl's gaskets and re-installed the copper gaskets thinking that perhaps they may seal after hanging in my garage for a while... but, I then realized that I had removed them for a reason... So, I'm going to try Mr Gasket paper gaskets. At $8 per pair, they are not as pricey as the $30 aluminum or $40 soft copper 'reusables'. I am going to try the passenger side first as that appears to be the source of my exhaust leak for now; I'll leave the copper on the driver's side unless, after solving the bad passenger side leak, I find that I still have leaks.
I replaced the soft copper gasket on the passenger side Monday evening with my Mr Gasket 'paper' gasket. Torqued all six bolts down good and then checked after I started the car and it had run a few minutes (checked CAREFULLY... hot headers!). Sealed fine... no more leak. Will torque them down today once more before I take it for a spin.
Felt so good about the improvement, I gave it a good exterior wash and dry; looks nice! Now, it's a joy to drive my '80 L48!
I spray my paper gaskets with 2-3 coats of high temp aluminum paint.
No problem with removing them when the time comes and I've reused them from time to time.
I spray my paper gaskets with 2-3 coats of high temp aluminum paint.
No problem with removing them when the time comes and I've reused them from time to time.
I was tempted to coat both sides with some graphite paste that I once used when replaced spark plugs in an aluminum cylinder head on an '86 Hyundai (my first new car... go figure). I still have the graphite tin in my toolbox. Forgot to do it once I got into the gasket job. Next time I may try the paste or some high temp alum paint as you describe. Can't hurt and likely helps as you describe. Thanks for the tip!
I just replaced mine on the drivers side, used the Mr Gacket paper with Copper coat gasket spray. Drove it unti hot, then let cool down then re-torqued. Hooker Headers.
Copper gaskets are for people who think they got a problem.
They are really for people with too much money.
If paper gaskets leak, its not the gaskets its the mating surfaces of the head or header and trying to fill the space with a thicker metal.
I have never had 1 problem with MR Gasket header gaskets, even sometime for "peace of mind" I have coated both sides with permatex lightly.
One time I had a 68 Firebird with a SBC that the headers and heads were so smooth I didn't use gaskets and they didn't leak!!!!!!!!!
The gaskets I got with my Summit headers on the vette now looked cheap but everyday save me money by never leaking.
Any suggestions for proper torque for header bolts? My Speedway shortys didn't come with any torque numbers.
I use header bolt lock washers on my bolts and tighten them down hard with a 3/8" rachet. Obviously, the inside bolts on the outer exhaust ports (1-7 and 2-8) have to be tightened with an open-end wrench (my experience on my '80 L48 anyway) so they tend to be a bit looser as I can't get a socket on them. I tightened my paper gaskets three times after installation on passenger side. Now, they are fine. I just removed the copper from driver's side and am about to fire the engine after the first paper gasket 'torquing'.
I just tightened them by hand pretty snug working from center, then left and right, warmed up the car, then did it again.
Every now and then I check them and they are always tight.
I found some cool header bolts with spring-loaded lock wires bridging every pair of bolts...I didn't want to overtorque them. I'll just make sure the bolts are good and tight.
Last edited by I'm Batman; Jul 8, 2007 at 01:08 PM.