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flooding destroy engine??

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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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Default flooding destroy engine??

i was thinking about my distributor gear shearing the teeth off, and remembered that when i rebuilt the carb about a month earlier i flooded it REALLY bad. could my oil have been diluted enough to wear out the teeth on the dist.?
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 11:13 PM
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When you say flooded really bad I think about wet plugs and wont start, not filling the crankcase with gas.

I am no expert but, I would think you would have to get a quart or more gas in the oil and run it a good bit before you do much damage. I am not saying it will help either though.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 11:18 PM
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No way. Not without other failures!
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 11:50 PM
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My gut says you'd have to just about fill a cylinder with gas to dilute your oil enough to have caused your failure, but it might not take near so much to contribute to it.

Maybe a real lubricant expert can sort this one out.

Btw, if you've gotten the pan off yet, what else have you found??
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 09:05 AM
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To follow on skunk above:
Don't recall specifics of your failure ... but ... If the oil pump gears had metal run thru 'em ... that tends to jam op ... that'll stress dist-cam gears ... cam drives dist, in turn dist drives op.
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 03:37 PM
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i didnt have the float adjusters right and it just poured gas into my engine both times i tried to start it. but it was running fantastic when i got the floats right. its just so odd that i would shear teeth off a dist. especially one that only had about 500 miles on it. ive got points style dist. laying around here that must have 100000++ miles on them . never seen one fail like this.
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
My gut says you'd have to just about fill a cylinder with gas to dilute your oil enough to have caused your failure, but it might not take near so much to contribute to it.

Maybe a real lubricant expert can sort this one out.

Btw, if you've gotten the pan off yet, what else have you found??
ive actually been to busy for real to get that far. but the pan is the next step. im saving for a roller cam before i put it back together. and im hogging out the manifold. ALOT!
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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if you had enough gas in there to damage the distributor teeth i bet all your bearings are crap also....so no i don't think that is your problem but definitely change the oil ASAP
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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What was your cam gear made of and what was your dist gear made of? If incompatable then it will get eaten. Also if your dist alignment is off it will eat up your cam gear, previous owner of my Formula customed made a new LT1 intake to accept a dist but did not get the dist aligment correct, it ate through a bronze gear not too long after I bought it and started in a new melonized GM after I changed it out. Pulled the intake and installed a new Stealth Ram intake with a new GM dist gear and not a problem since.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Fevre
What was your cam gear made of and what was your dist gear made of? If incompatable then it will get eaten. Also if your dist alignment is off it will eat up your cam gear, previous owner of my Formula customed made a new LT1 intake to accept a dist but did not get the dist aligment correct, it ate through a bronze gear not too long after I bought it and started in a new melonized GM after I changed it out. Pulled the intake and installed a new Stealth Ram intake with a new GM dist gear and not a problem since.
i have no idea what they are. i just buy the parts and bolt them on. my cam is a hyd. lifter cam by comp, and my dist is msd pro billit for same. my manifold is a edelbrock air gap. i never had any problems before. i still have my mallory dist that got over a 1000 miles in this combo and it looks brand new.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:25 PM
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comp cams camshafts require either a bronze gear, or their ridiculously expensive composite gear.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by piper.gras
comp cams camshafts require either a bronze gear, or their ridiculously expensive composite gear.
Interesting why is that and why are Comp cams different from any other cam?
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bangkok Dean
Interesting why is that and why are Comp cams different from any other cam?
stock camshafts are cast iron. comp cams camshafts are made of steel. the stock cast iron gear is not compatible with a steel camshaft.

i would expect using a stock gear on a comp cams camshaft could shear the teeth off of the camshaft, i wouldn't think it would happen the other way around. the reason for using the bronze gears on the distributor is that it's a softer material that won't cause the steel gear on the camshaft to prematurely wear and/or fail.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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Not all Comp Cams are steel.
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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Default maybe just one acecdote . . .

back in the day - i flooded an engine on a number of occasions to the point where it reached hydraulic lock, ouch! i would then pull the plug(s), turn the engine over to expel the gasoline, reinstall the plug, and somehow manage to get the engine started. i may have changed the oil, and then maybe not - strict budget and all. not smart to say the least!!! but not the dumbest thing i've ever done either!!! that engine (1970 370 hp 350 ci) went on to over 150,000 miles, and i can still crank it today (without flooding!). naturally it is worn out and sitting in line for a rebuild.

the point is that it's hard for me to imagine "abuse by flooding" an engine any worse than this one. whatever damage i caused by flooding of that engine did not affect the distributor (i have since had the dstributor out for inspection).

for what it's worth . . .
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Old Jul 7, 2007 | 12:31 PM
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ok... so it sounds like the flooding wasnt an issue
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