Air Conditioning
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
Air Conditioning
It's Vegas, and it's 115 out. I LOVE my Vette, but my A/C isn't working. I really dont want to take it to a mechanic if I dont have to. The guy I bought it from says all it needs is new hoses because they leak. I'm not sure that I believe him since he said it was all original too!! Anyways, just curious to know where the best place for me to start to try to get the A/C to work. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Take it down to a specialty AC shop or a good general garage. Unless you like a stock looking compressor you might think about having the system upgraded to a Sanden & charged w/R134.
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 221
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
First you will have to find the leak using a vacuum pump. Then once you find the leak replace the O-ring or rings.
It is recommend that if you exposed the system to the environment you will need to replace the AIR CONDITIONER DRIER ACCUMULATOR and clean or replace the AIR EVAPORATOR REFRIGERANT ORIFICE. As long as you are replacing the dryer and the orifice you might as well replace all of the O-rings and flush the condenser and evaorator core.
Then you will have to determine your oil level in the compressor so as to know how much to add to the system.
Then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump and charge the system with required amount of R-134.
R-12 and R-134 refrigerants and oils are not compatible with each other.
This is a basic explanation of the process.
I could go into more detail if wanted.
Hopes this helps you a little.
It is recommend that if you exposed the system to the environment you will need to replace the AIR CONDITIONER DRIER ACCUMULATOR and clean or replace the AIR EVAPORATOR REFRIGERANT ORIFICE. As long as you are replacing the dryer and the orifice you might as well replace all of the O-rings and flush the condenser and evaorator core.
Then you will have to determine your oil level in the compressor so as to know how much to add to the system.
Then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump and charge the system with required amount of R-134.
R-12 and R-134 refrigerants and oils are not compatible with each other.
This is a basic explanation of the process.
I could go into more detail if wanted.
Hopes this helps you a little.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 1
From: grand prairie texas
I pretty much agree withjc3vette For now I would just eliminate the vacumn pump part and just replace the lines and the o-rings and orifice tube and drier accumulator and flush out the system and I would yank off the compressor and carry it to someone who overhauls compressors and they can hook up the lines and spin up the compressor and check its suction and pressure sides. That way you have done a complete overhaul on the system. I doubt if you will be happy with r-134 in vegas with your heat It might be worth the extra bucks to go back with the r-12 once you have confirmed the tightness of your system.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 1
From: grand prairie texas
I am sure you are correct with some mods like electric fans to move air thru condensor at lower speeds. Typically r-134 air is at best low 40's register output temp where typically r-12 will push into the 30's. The main reason i suggested the r-12 is because of extreme Vegas heat. Strictly only my opinion.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
First you will have to find the leak using a vacuum pump. Then once you find the leak replace the O-ring or rings.
It is recommend that if you exposed the system to the environment you will need to replace the AIR CONDITIONER DRIER ACCUMULATOR and clean or replace the AIR EVAPORATOR REFRIGERANT ORIFICE. As long as you are replacing the dryer and the orifice you might as well replace all of the O-rings and flush the condenser and evaorator core.
Then you will have to determine your oil level in the compressor so as to know how much to add to the system.
Then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump and charge the system with required amount of R-134.
R-12 and R-134 refrigerants and oils are not compatible with each other.
This is a basic explanation of the process.
I could go into more detail if wanted.
Hopes this helps you a little.
It is recommend that if you exposed the system to the environment you will need to replace the AIR CONDITIONER DRIER ACCUMULATOR and clean or replace the AIR EVAPORATOR REFRIGERANT ORIFICE. As long as you are replacing the dryer and the orifice you might as well replace all of the O-rings and flush the condenser and evaorator core.
Then you will have to determine your oil level in the compressor so as to know how much to add to the system.
Then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump and charge the system with required amount of R-134.
R-12 and R-134 refrigerants and oils are not compatible with each other.
This is a basic explanation of the process.
I could go into more detail if wanted.
Hopes this helps you a little.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 336
From: Texas
you pull a deep vacuum on the system then shut the gauges off and let it sit, should hold the vacuum indefinitely. when i did mine i first pressured it up with 80 psi of air overnight, then pulled a vacuum on system for hour and a half, and let it sit, 4 cans of 134 later, works ok 45° air coming out of vents.
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
you pull a deep vacuum on the system then shut the gauges off and let it sit, should hold the vacuum indefinitely. when i did mine i first pressured it up with 80 psi of air overnight, then pulled a vacuum on system for hour and a half, and let it sit, 4 cans of 134 later, works ok 45° air coming out of vents.
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
AC is one of those things where you do it right or do it again & again & again, while replacing a shelled compressor each time. If you want to do it yourself then replace everything & use new parts, rebuilt isn't worth the box it's in. I know a lot of people will disagree with this statement, but 10 -20 years ago you could get quality rebuilt parts, hard to do anymore. Make sure the new compressor comes with a full load of oil, (make up your mind ahead of time on R12 or R134), install the parts & then take it to a shop to vac & fill. Don't let them vac it for a hour, they should want to do it for quite some time to make sure the air is out.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
Finding the leak...
Pulling and holding a vacuum only confirms the integrity of the system, but it will not help you find the leak. That is typically done by adding a pound or so of refrigerant and using a refrigerant "sniffer" to find the actual leak.
On the repairs, I would need to know what year vette we're dealing with. If it's an all original early one, I'd hesitate to convert it over to a later style, but a later R-4 equipped car would work lots better with a Sanden style compressor. If it is an early one, the hoses most likely ARE leaking or "bad". I wanted to keep the original look on mine, so I took my existing rubber lines to a local A/C specialty shop and had them re-hose my original fittings with modern 'barrier' hose, re-sealed the compressor and put it back together. I run r-134a in mine and register temps are right at 38-40 degrees on MAX on a 90 degree day. I re-sealed all my ducts as well, but I'm still not happy with the stock flow, so I'll work on that someday. With a 'vert it all seems kinda' pointless anyway...
On the repairs, I would need to know what year vette we're dealing with. If it's an all original early one, I'd hesitate to convert it over to a later style, but a later R-4 equipped car would work lots better with a Sanden style compressor. If it is an early one, the hoses most likely ARE leaking or "bad". I wanted to keep the original look on mine, so I took my existing rubber lines to a local A/C specialty shop and had them re-hose my original fittings with modern 'barrier' hose, re-sealed the compressor and put it back together. I run r-134a in mine and register temps are right at 38-40 degrees on MAX on a 90 degree day. I re-sealed all my ducts as well, but I'm still not happy with the stock flow, so I'll work on that someday. With a 'vert it all seems kinda' pointless anyway...
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
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From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
Couldn't agree more.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
Hans
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
This works well for those folks on a limited budget or lack the fancy equipment. You still need to evacuate it at some point to remove moiture and other contaminants, but the stuff to add a dye charge is pretty cheap. It's less effective than a sniffer because the dye (mixed with oil,a fluid) is less likely to leak than a gas (the refrigerant). Also, you have to hope it's leaking in a place that you can actually see the leak!
Hans
Hans
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 1
From: grand prairie texas
Its not by the book but the way I find leaks in the past was i fabricated an adaptor that hooked into my home compressor and adapted it to hook up to the low side and I put pressure on the system and most of the time once you get the pressure up high enough you can use a soap solution and look for the bubbles. Yes it will temporarly put moisture into the system but once you find your leak you will repair system and evacuate.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
you pull a deep vacuum on the system then shut the gauges off and let it sit, should hold the vacuum indefinitely. when i did mine i first pressured it up with 80 psi of air overnight, then pulled a vacuum on system for hour and a half, and let it sit, 4 cans of 134 later, works ok 45° air coming out of vents.
4 cans?? most I can get in my stockish '72 system with custom hoses and a '88 vette compressor is about 2.5 12 oz cans of 134.... that's IT, and it freezes my *** off pretty good...I hate going much more, as it seems to not want it....I guess if I revved the engine up pretty good I could get more in there, but doing so don't seem to help anything....
been at it with this setup for about 12 years now...
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Its not by the book but the way I find leaks in the past was i fabricated an adaptor that hooked into my home compressor and adapted it to hook up to the low side and I put pressure on the system and most of the time once you get the pressure up high enough you can use a soap solution and look for the bubbles. Yes it will temporarly put moisture into the system but once you find your leak you will repair system and evacuate.
HAHAHA>...that is what I do, for years now, and furthermore, I adapted the 134 cans by sweating/drilling various fittings to use the old R12 fittings for charging with a hock shop set of gauges....
all the pro a/c guys upgraded to a set of 134 gauges, but the LO side reads the same so, I just limit the charge of 134, and read the lo side, and have done with it....cap it off, and fly.....doing it for years now...
Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 4
From: Maine
Is there a conversion kit to use a Sanden compressor on a car that originally had an A6 compressor?
Also, how do you flush an A/C system if you have to replace the compressor that crashed?
Thanks in advance.
Best,
Rob
Also, how do you flush an A/C system if you have to replace the compressor that crashed?
Thanks in advance.
Best,
Rob
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
If freon is leaking out the dye will also leak out. The evaporator is the hardest to see, but
1 If you don't see the dye anywhere else and you are losing a charge, it is probably the evaporator
2 Usually the condensation carries the dye from the evaporator out the evap drain hole, so check the casing drain for the dye. It is usually easy to find there.
The proper way to flush a system is to take it all apart and flush each item separately.
Compressors must be dissassembled and parallel flow condensers must be replaced.
1 If you don't see the dye anywhere else and you are losing a charge, it is probably the evaporator
2 Usually the condensation carries the dye from the evaporator out the evap drain hole, so check the casing drain for the dye. It is usually easy to find there.
The proper way to flush a system is to take it all apart and flush each item separately.
Compressors must be dissassembled and parallel flow condensers must be replaced.