ZZ4 In a 72
Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
ZZ4 In a 72
Hi, i am new here and my dad and i are starting work on a 72 coupe (manual)and are looking at putting in a ZZ4 crate engine from gm. I assume this has been done before and wanted to ask some questions. First what else will i need? I assume a flywheel (or can i use my old one) a carb, what else. Also whatcan i do to keep the tach working, seeing as it is currently a mechanical tach. Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Welcome to the forum. I hope you find everything you need. The ZZ4 swap has been done plenty and I'm sure you'll find lots of good info using our advanced search engine.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/search.php
Just enter the key words, like ZZ4 and swap, select archives, and on the left select the C3 section.
Oh, and filling out your profile will help us out a lot when trying to help you out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/search.php
Just enter the key words, like ZZ4 and swap, select archives, and on the left select the C3 section.
Oh, and filling out your profile will help us out a lot when trying to help you out.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
As said above the ZZ4 has been swapped into many a C3 with little trouble. As for the dist you can keep the original one and use it. You can but a new tach drive dist, HEI style or MSD or similar ones or you can convert your mech. tach into an electrical one. I did this a few months ago and it is real nice to have a smooth working tach. Cost about the same as a new HEI stlye dist but no cables to worry about.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I think the ZZ4 has the one piece rear main seal, and as such you can't use your old flywheel....the bolt pattern is totally off.....
the ZZ4 engine has the 113 aluminum heads, from what I hear....
I did a '89 4 bolt main truck block and sometime recently 113 aluminum heads...making the equivalent of a ZZ4 engine....but the original install was some ten years ago...many versions of it since then...typical hotrod...
I can say that putting on a DPFI setup will about double your present fuel economy directly on your present engine assuming it's good....
IMO, to get good benefit out of that ZZ4 you need strongly consider a similar route, and God knows there is lotsa support for that route DO the DPFI conversion...toss that carb crap where it belongs...
the ZZ4 engine has the 113 aluminum heads, from what I hear....
I did a '89 4 bolt main truck block and sometime recently 113 aluminum heads...making the equivalent of a ZZ4 engine....but the original install was some ten years ago...many versions of it since then...typical hotrod...
I can say that putting on a DPFI setup will about double your present fuel economy directly on your present engine assuming it's good....
IMO, to get good benefit out of that ZZ4 you need strongly consider a similar route, and God knows there is lotsa support for that route DO the DPFI conversion...toss that carb crap where it belongs...
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Direct port FI, one injector per cylinder, directly above the intake valve...at ~40 lbs fuel pressure, vs the older throttle body injection with fuel flowing from a central point like a carb....and fuel pressure arounf 10 lbs or so....the fuel stays in suspension down the induction runners in the manifold....all sorts of problems with it, from an efficiency standpoint...it was a 1/2 step, engineering wise for most companies....long story...
there are many sytems out there, you gotta read a whole bunch to get caught up, IF you have any wiring/electrical/electronic knowledge OR are not scared to learn....it's interesting....and fun....well I think so anyway...
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 22
From: Oxford CT
I just put a zz4 into my 71 last year. It is very strait forward and almost a direct boltup.
The things that you will have to change are as follows
1: flwheel
2: distributor drive gear, its called a mellonized gear and available from GM performance. You can use your stock distributor with the gear.
3: replace the long nose waterpump that comes with the motor with your original.
Other than that everything off the old engine will bolt up.
It's a good swap, you won't be disappointed.
The things that you will have to change are as follows
1: flwheel
2: distributor drive gear, its called a mellonized gear and available from GM performance. You can use your stock distributor with the gear.
3: replace the long nose waterpump that comes with the motor with your original.
Other than that everything off the old engine will bolt up.
It's a good swap, you won't be disappointed.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
here are some notes from when I dropped a zz4 in my 1980 --- http://racingbs.com/zz4. The notes are old, but still relevant.
Flywheel -- yes, you will need a new one. Your current flywheel will not fit the new crank. Most clutch / flywheel makers will have one that works. Just mention you are using a crank with the one-piece rear main seal and they should be able to find one for ya.
Water pump -- good time to swap in a new water pump. Make sure to get a "short" style pump with a 3/4" shaft. All 1968-82's use the same water pump.
you can use your old distributor as long as you get a new gear from GM. This would be a good time to update the distributor to a non-points style system to get away from having to deal with that mess all the time.
The intake on the ZZ4 will take Holley or QJet.
Good luck with the swap, it's worth it in the long run.
Flywheel -- yes, you will need a new one. Your current flywheel will not fit the new crank. Most clutch / flywheel makers will have one that works. Just mention you are using a crank with the one-piece rear main seal and they should be able to find one for ya.
Water pump -- good time to swap in a new water pump. Make sure to get a "short" style pump with a 3/4" shaft. All 1968-82's use the same water pump.
you can use your old distributor as long as you get a new gear from GM. This would be a good time to update the distributor to a non-points style system to get away from having to deal with that mess all the time.
The intake on the ZZ4 will take Holley or QJet.
Good luck with the swap, it's worth it in the long run.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 3
From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
I run a hot cam with 1.5 rockers in my 350 for my Formula and it is a great street cam but not a race cam.
Engine $4000 http://www.lowcostengines.com/12499101.htm
Cam $216 http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku
LT4 springs $38http://69.20.110.81/index.asp?PageAc...D&ProdID=24732
Hot cam in a HT 383 http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ine/index.html
Last edited by Fevre; Jul 12, 2007 at 08:42 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: villa park il
i put a zz4 in my 71..a/t w a th400 2800 stall,hot cam 1.6 roller rockersand a street avenger 770 carb...msd 6albox and distributor...runs great but i should have gone with the fast burn 385..also you might need to use a bronze distributor gear in that zz motor due to a roller cam in it....
Last edited by gmans71; Jul 14, 2007 at 02:48 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 10
From: Scottsboro Alabama
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 10
From: Scottsboro Alabama
Nothing if you don't mind pulling it regularly to check for wear or replacement. GM, MSD both use a melonite QPQ process on their distributor gears. It's a heat treatment that increases surface hardness, then they black oxide it, polish it, etc. Crane's distributor gears are similar but they call it a coating. These can be used on steel roller cams, either induction hardened or carburized steel.
