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Spark Advance Graph (any thoughts?)

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Old Jul 14, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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Default Spark Advance Graph (any thoughts?)

Everyone...

I've been concerned that my spark advance was messed up when I put the new MSD distributor on... just doesn't seem to have the same hole shot and acceleration power.

I checked the advance at multiple RPMs this afternoon from idle until full advance was in... The graph below is the result. Shows idle(700 RPM) at 13 degrees with a full advance of 38 degrees in at 2,800 RPM. Does this seem right? Is 25 degrees of advance (idle to full advance) correct? Is it coming in too soon?

Ignore the bumps in the line as it was just my trying to get readings at the various RPMs... the advance was smooth...bottom line is that idle and full advance are accurate and the rate of advance is accurate.

Thanks in advance...no pun intended...

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Old Jul 14, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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Are you running vacuum advance? If not, run around 20 degrees at idle and change the mechanical advance bushing to limit total advance to 38*
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by big_G
Are you running vacuum advance? If not, run around 20 degrees at idle and change the mechanical advance bushing to limit total advance to 38*
No...MSD Billet distributor does not have a vacume advance.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by big_G
Are you running vacuum advance? If not, run around 20 degrees at idle and change the mechanical advance bushing to limit total advance to 38*
you want more initial advance. I have mine at 24 degrees at idle and 35 by 3000
I also feel that ALL cars should have vacuum advance. I feel the vacuum advance keeps the motor cleaner and crisper at idle and doesn't affect anything else.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 80TexasC3
No...MSD Billet distributor does not have a vacume advance.
My mech tach Pro Billet one does.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 80TexasC3
No...MSD Billet distributor does not have a vacume advance.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 07:13 PM
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The engine has ran well without the vacume advance and it was the way the speed shop built it. So, I just replaced the distributor in the past 500 miles when the old one was damaged... not really interested in spending another $300. Unless the vacum is really needed and I can add it to the current one.

With that said, unless the lack of a vacum advance is keeping me from doing this...I would like to get some input on my original question on the curve and when max advance should be in.

Thanks in advance and respecfully....
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 10:21 PM
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Your advance curve is typical for hi-performance use. I have mine set up similar, but with 20 deg. initial, all in by 2,800.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by big_G
Your advance curve is typical for hi-performance use. I have mine set up similar, but with 20 deg. initial, all in by 2,800.
Thank You.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 05:45 AM
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If they just pulled the can you can buy a new one and put it on. Many advantages to running one on a street car as Norval states.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Fevre
If they just pulled the can you can buy a new one and put it on. Many advantages to running one on a street car as Norval states.

Didn't come with one. Wonder if it can be added...
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 08:39 AM
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Your Edl heads probably use fast burn technology. Which would mean that max power is attained at some lower max advance number like 32 degrees.

recurve the dist for something like 16 initial + 16 mech. all in by 3000 rpm

Then if you think that you need more timing you could try 18 initial + 16 = 34. Without a dyno you are never going to really know the best advance curve for your motor. I personally have not seen gains with max timing coming in early. I have always used 3000 - 3200 rpm with higher initial settings
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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I agree witht eh above, and want to add the reducing you mech advance and increasing your initial will wake the car up at the bottom end.
really!
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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thanks... and am taking the advice...

reducing the mechanical advance from 25... Additional question...

If I go with 21 total mechanical advance (and assume 36 is my total advance target)... I will get an initial advance of about 15.

or

If I go with 18 total mechanical advance (Assume 36 is my total advance target)... I will get an initial advance of about 18.

What would be a better initial target? 15 or 18????
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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 08:57 AM
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The best power and fuel efficiency is to run as much initial timing as your engine will allow (allowing easy cranking). Then add whatever mechanical advance you need to achieve your target max. timing.
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