I just purchased a C3 with a 200HP 350 block. The power is less than adequate for the vette.
Is there ways to increasing engine performance without spending a lot of bucks?

 

Yes and no. Power costs money. How much power you want to buy is up to you.

There are low cost ways to do what you want. Focus on air in and air out, and compression.

Heads play a big role in this, same as a good cam.

Start with a proper tune. New plugs, wires, timing, and carb tune. If that doesn't net you much for results then you can look into parts.

This kit would pretty much take care of you and consider upgrading your exhaust along with it for best results.
http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD806...RPMAirGap.aspx

You can do everything individually by buying your own used Vortec heads, Vortec carb manifold, and a summit came for cheap. A commonly mentioned cam is the SUM-152123.

Start there if you like but it all comes down to what you're willing or able to spend.

 

How fast = How much money you can spend

A lot depends on what you want from the car. Headers and dual exhaust are a good starting point and give you good HP per dollar. After that you can go with an intake, carb, cam, heads, or complete rebuild. Make sure your ignition is in good shape also.

 

In my experience, the cheap track to performance ends up in heartache. And the amount you pay is exponentially proportional to the gain you get.... in other words, the more power you want, an even greater amount of money is required.

Do you have any idea what power you want to achieve?

What do you call " a lot of bucks " ?

Some may say, add a bottle of N2O, and you'll get the best "bang for buck" possible. Biggest power increase for minimal outlay.... but if the motor is not in good physical shape, even with a small 100hp shot you might get the literal translation: BANG for your buck.

Like mentioned above... assuming your engine is in good condition and tune.... you can get a few more neddies with a free flowing set of headers and twin exhaust. Might gain 25~30hp.

Then you need to get more air into the engine....and that most often means better heads. (or supercharging/turbocharging/N2O which really need stronger mechanicals and a lot more money)

And that's when you get hooked into the whole shebang of motor rebuilding... How much power is enough?
How much do you want to spend....
Should I get that additional component for that extra 3 hp?
.
.
.

I'll guarantee you, you'll never stop being satisfied with what you've got. You'll get the bug like the rest of us.

Like I said, determine how much you want to spend first, and use it for power increases within the reliability limits of your car....
The last thing you want when being on a budget, is having more money tied up in a car which isn't running because something broke.

cheers

tom

 

Looking into some increase HP to start, like Vince, only I'm real low with a 77 L-48. Getting confused a little on headers and dual exhaust while lurking through the forum. I would like a complete package for the exhaust that is compatible and able to handle upgraded heads, intake, cam at a later date. Not hot rod stuff, just nice street with some kick and good corvette sound. Any help will be appreciated.

 

A good set of 1 5/8 headers will support a 400+ HP motor very well. I am not a fan of the prefab exhaust. Most don't fit very well and have some bad kinks in them. Some are very good others are very bad. I prefer to have a system bent up by a pro. Not the cheapest way to go but HP cost. Spend a decent amount and you will be rewarded with a good rattle free syatem tha twill be able to support what kind of Hp you are looking for.

 

Taking the advise already posted into account, before even thinking of changing the cam, install and/or improve the cold air induction and put in a higher flow filter such as a K&N (or at least a Fram Air Hog), change the thermostat to a 180* pressure balanced unit, reduce exhaust back pressure with headers and a less restrictive muffler/cat system, upgrade or replace your dizzy, and super tune your carb and ignition (read up on Lars' tips). If you have an iron intake, change to an aluminum piece, but keep it a dual plane design for good street manners, watching for hood clearance issues, and strongly consider blocking off manifold heat. In any event, match the intake runners to the heads if you ever have the intake off.

Should you still have room in your budget for the cam (and matching kit) after all of the above, go for more lift without significantly increasing duration or the bottom end of your torque curve will suffer (something no small block needs) and you'll end up spending more money to re-cam again or raising your CR. In the event that you have enough money, get a performance valve job and bronze guides while you're at it. An option at this point would be milling for more CR.

Lots of people go crazy ripping out everything they even consider might be power robbing smog equipment. Whatever you do, don't remove your PVC and evap can. If your car is equiped with AIR, EGR, cat and the like, removing them is up to you and your local laws, but don't toss them. If Algore and his ilk ever have their way you'll probably need that crap to put off your turn at the great car crush.

If all else fails and you find yourself with more money burning a hole in your pocket than you can stand, big block it!

Hope that helps.

 

Gordon, thanks for the response. Cheap is not the driving factor..I want reasonable quality. I guess my confusion has been about the different components...sounds like you are a fan of getting the major parts and have a good fab person do their magic. I like that idea but I don't know what are quality parts to look for. I realize there are a lot of different ideas about vendors from the forum but would appreciate you input on this. OBTW I am easily confused...maybe too many motorcycle and off-road racing accidents when I was younger. Great forum of honest and knowledgeable folk willing to help. This is great. Thanks again.

 

Hedman Elite would be a very durable street header. 3/8 thick head
flange, thick 14 gauge 1 5/8 tubing, thermal coated, modern
ball flange on the collector. HED-68308. $269.95.

 

There is no match to cubic Money

 

To get started down the road to good answers, you need to provide two things:

1. Exactly how much output are you looking for and do you mean at the flywheel or at the rear wheels?
2. What exactly is your parts line-up at this time - carb, heads, valves, cam, exhaust, etc, etc?

 

I may get kicked off the forum for this but when I was hot rodding on the tightest of tight budgets with my first car ('80 Z28) in high school I used the following formula to get some more pop.

I threw a 4 speed Super T-10 in there (had TH350), a Weiand Xcellerator single plane intake with a rebuilt Holley 750 and a TQ20 Erson cam (biggest I could go with stock springs). Cam was more on the duration and less on the lift than I would have liked but no more mods needed so I bought it and gambled. This took my 350 that probably made about 250 hp up into an exceptable range (300+ hp?) where I could do a 150ft burn out, of course the 4 speed helped with this quite a bit but the motor was much stronger by just changing a few of the more simple components. I also put a set of Hooker Super Comps on it and 2.5" duals w/ Walker mufflers but w/o cats that I turned down after the mufflers (turn downs were cost savings but also sounded good I thought). I think I did the whole thing for under $2000, including the trans but I knew a guy who wasn't using his so he basically gave it to me - looking back it's a little like a crack dealer giving the new guy a free sample to get him hooked... worked like a charm.

Best time I pulled with that car was 13.1. A set of frame connectors and a rear suspension rebuild would have helped immensley.

Anyway, not necessarily endorsing this now but I accomplished my goal and bumped my performance up on the cheap. Everyone else is right though, eventually your going to have to dump some $$ to make it reliable and consistent.

Good Luck