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Well I was on the highway doing about 75 mph. It was starting to get hot so I turned on the AC. About 2 minutes later, I felt something coming from the engine and the car started to loose power. I turn off the AC and some of the power came back. About 10 minutes later, I slowed to pay a toll and the engine stopped. After getting the car home this is what I found.
Coil bind
Insufficient guide to retainer clearance
Over-revving (valve float)
Insufficient valve to piston clearance
Retainer, valve stem or keeper failure
Cam has too much lift for spring set-up
Have a competent machine shop do forensics on the heads.
BTW, a major engine rebuilder supplied a customer with a long block. Lasted 300 miles. Coil bind. You have to check everything these days.
Last edited by big_G; Jul 19, 2007 at 01:02 PM.
Reason: added info
Coil bind
Insufficient guide to retainer clearance
Over-revving (valve float)
Insufficient valve to piston clearance
Retainer, valve stem or keeper failure
Cam has too much lift for spring set-up
Have a competent machine shop do forensics on the heads.
BTW, a major engine rebuilder supplied a customer with a long block. Lasted 300 miles. Coil bind. You have to check everything these days.
You say 1200 miles? i am surprised it even lasted that!!
I might suspect the valve stem stuck in the guide and hung open. The piston hit it and bent it enough to break it off. Either that or it was simply a dropped valve. No way that should have happened under those conditions.
If it makes you feel any better I had a cam chain failure on my '98Jaguar twin overhead cam engine a few months ago and it resulted in the same broken valve stem and a ventilated piston. The only difference is if it had been a Chevy I would have fixed it myself. The Jag had to be junked as the cost to fix was higer than the value of the whole stinking car.
P.S. - if any of you happen to own a late 90's early 2000's Jag and have not done the cam chain tensioner upgrades yet, send me a PM RIGHT AWAY.
Sonic or dye check the block anyways, as well as the crank for straightness. Cylinder cracks can sometimes be very hard to see.
By the time I take the engine apart, pay to have the block and crank checked, and then pay someone to put it all back together, It would be easier to buy a new short block if I get warranty coverage on the heads.
By the time I take the engine apart, pay to have the block and crank checked, and then pay someone to put it all back together, It would be easier to buy a new short block if I get warranty coverage on the heads.
Yes No?
It would be easier. You have to look at all options.