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From: If the world didnt suck, we would all fall off. Troy,Ohio.
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08
[PICS] Need advice..
What is the best way to remove this broken bolt in the rear Diff?
I tryed to weld a bolt on it and the weld will not hold, its driving me crazy.
And should I use a Saw Zall to remove the shock bracket? I burned all the rubber out of it.
PB the hell outta the bolt, heat the case around the hole and let it cool with more PB several times and weld a nut on the shank of the bolt and then try it.
For the shock mount cut the strut rod off and then you can get to the Split on the sleeve of the strut rod and chisel it out, more PB on the bracket, lots od tapping and it will eventually come out. The shock mount is keyed so it will not turn in the mount.
From: If the world didnt suck, we would all fall off. Troy,Ohio.
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
PB the hell outta the bolt, heat the case around the hole and let it cool with more PB several times and weld a nut on the shank of the bolt and then try it.
For the shock mount cut the strut rod off and then you can get to the Split on the sleeve of the strut rod and chisel it out, more PB on the bracket, lots od tapping and it will eventually come out. The shock mount is keyed so it will not turn in the mount.
west way I know, get the end cherry red, anything less you risk breaking it off. Propane won't get it hot enough, you will have to use acetylene torch..
From: If the world didnt suck, we would all fall off. Troy,Ohio.
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08
Originally Posted by GDaina
west way I know, get the end cherry red, anything less you risk breaking it off. Propane won't get it hot enough, you will have to use acetylene torch..
Hey Wacked....How did the front spring removal go? Did not hear back after your last post. I figured you were either maimed by a flying spring or had the munchies and didn't feel like posting.
Oxy/Acetylene is the 'hot" ticket. If one is not available to you, get a cylinder of MAPP gas for your propane torch set up. Heat causes the metal to expand so concentrate the heat around the bolt, not the bolt itself. Don't let 1 spot get too hot. If it's red, it's too hot. Vice grips or a small pipe wrench should grab. You're lucky you have allot of stud sticking out to grab.
If you are successful, use the torch to "fire one up" as a reward.
As always, keep us posted.....gp
Last edited by palamesa; Jul 25, 2007 at 07:29 PM.
I'd heat it up with a torch and then stick one of the wife's candle sticks down there and let it melt into the threads. That will lube it up and not burn off.. then you can use the vise grips or whatever on it. Just make sure its a candle your wife isn't going to miss! Good luck.
after you heat around the stud, and the stud won't turn easy, it's not hot enough. Don't force it, you will break off the end if you do...get it hot so the stud turns easy.
From: If the world didnt suck, we would all fall off. Troy,Ohio.
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08
Originally Posted by palamesa
Hey Wacked....How did the front spring removal go? Did not hear back after your last post. I figured you were either maimed by a flying spring or had the munchies and didn't feel like posting.
Oxy/Acetylene is the 'hot" ticket. If one is not available to you, get a cylinder of MAPP gas for your propane torch set up. Heat causes the metal to expand so concentrate the heat around the bolt, not the bolt itself. Don't let 1 spot get too hot. If it's red, it's too hot. Vice grips or a small pipe wrench should grab. You're lucky you have allot of stud sticking out to grab.
If you are successful, use the torch to "fire one up" as a reward.
As always, keep us posted.....gp
The front rebuild will have to wait, (till the motor goes on.) I'm going to wait on the front its to spooky to do by my self. 'm going to re do the front after I pull the motor and set it in the chassis. I need to get the rear back together first. And yes I tightend the front up so the spring wont come flying out. I like the bongs in my Avatar, dont meen I smoke pot.
like GD said, you have to get it cheery and propane or mapp is not going to do it. That is a 78-79 cover and they break so be sure to lock a vise grip on the stud so you can crack it loose. I had a front bolt rust seized in the 2nd hole in the housing. It came from FL and it was the worse case I've had. I cut off the head and nut, removed the bracket and tried to tap out the stud- no go. Then set it up in the Bridgeport to drill out the stud, got to the center and it was hard as hell- rolled the bit, finally heated it cherry and gave it a shot and broke loose the rust.
The front rebuild will have to wait, (till the motor goes on.) I'm going to wait on the front its to spooky to do by my self. 'm going to re do the front after I pull the motor and set it in the chassis. I need to get the rear back together first. And yes I tightend the front up so the spring wont come flying out. I like the bongs in my Avatar, dont meen I smoke pot.
Hey Man, get ya one of these or rent it. Makes the front spring job as easy and safe as a tire change
put a grinder on each side of the bolt so you have a small flat surface on each side then heat and pb the crap out of it then get a large cresent wrench on it or a vice grip. or like what was mentioned before cut some threads on it and use two nuts with heat and pb.
I'd heat it up with a torch and then stick one of the wife's candle sticks down there and let it melt into the threads. That will lube it up and not burn off.. then you can use the vise grips or whatever on it. Just make sure its a candle your wife isn't going to miss! Good luck.