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Starter Woes - What am i doing wrong?

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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 06:40 PM
  #21  
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I understand you've bench checked the starters and they are good but on the car when you cross up the starter all you get uis the Clik clik clik.
All you are doing when you cross up the starter is engaging the solenoid. You dont state if the starter has 1 lead to it or 2 besides the Hi tension post
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 06:40 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by RPOL68
If it throws the drive out but doesn't spin the starter it's likely to be a bad solenoid. Check it by putting a voltmeter on that lead that goes into the starter. It should read 12V when you apply 12V to the S terminal. (thats the one closest to the block with the purple wire). If it show 12V then there is something wrong with the starter.
On the bench it pop out and spins fine.
Originally Posted by Ironcross
heat soak,
I hope your joking...
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 06:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by pmullaly
I understand you've bench checked the starters and they are good but on the car when you cross up the starter all you get uis the Clik clik clik.
All you are doing when you cross up the starter is engaging the solenoid. You dont state if the starter has 1 lead to it or 2 besides the Hi tension post
It has 4 terminals on it total. (terminals, posts, whatever the term is.)

12v post
Solenoid spade terminal
and the two on top that are connected and covered with a rubber thing. I havent touched these.

Here is a video i just made. Sorry about the quality. The starter gear gets stuck in the out position until i either move the engine a little by hand or just touch it with a screwdriver.

http://olmarsupply.com/VIDEO_002.mp4

Its not the normal "Click click" sound ive heard many times. This sounds more like the gear is vibrating against the flywheel
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 11:19 PM
  #24  
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From: Tracy Ca
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anyone?
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 12:45 AM
  #25  
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All my stuff has the older style starters so I'm not sure this applies to yours.

.................................0 + batt cable

Ignition Bypass.......0............0 Starter Switch

.................................0
.............................../.][
............................../..0.......Starter
............................./../
............................/../
..........................Check for 12V here and here while cranking.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 08:22 AM
  #26  
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This is really strange,but has to be a simple problem,since you stated the engine turns easily by hand. That means it can only three things. Starter, volts/amps, your timming/compression. I dont think its the third.
Make SURE the engine is grounded properly! Make sure the battery is grounded properly. Make sure the grounding straps/cables are in good shape. That takes care of one side of the electrical flow. An often overlooked spot.Next, it sounds like its getting the juice, but you need to make sure. Is there anyway you can test the starter,under load,elsewhere? Dont know if Auto Zone offers that test. If it was your timming/compression, it would at least move a bit before stopping and going to the click stage. Thats why I believe its in the starter or electrical system/test system, you have set up. Elimiate one of those and you have your finger on the problem.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 01:07 PM
  #27  
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Didnt we use to put shims in A starter that did not turn the engine over so it would not bind up. did your starter have any thin looking washers drop out when you took the first starter off?
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 01:20 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Lon Wayne
Didnt we use to put shims in A starter that did not turn the engine over so it would not bind up. did your starter have any thin looking washers drop out when you took the first starter off?
This is the first time i am trying to start this engine... I currently have 2 shims under the mounting bolts.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #29  
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 05:31 PM
  #30  
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Mike, you can use a paper clip to measure this clearance. I remember this trick from the instructions of a starter I bought from Summit.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...sum-g1660a.pdf

Starter wiring, in your case the yellow wire and corresponding lug are not used.
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Last edited by shafrs3; Jul 28, 2007 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 02:24 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by shafrs3
Mike, you can use a paper clip to measure this clearance. I remember this trick from the instructions of a starter I bought from Summit.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...sum-g1660a.pdf

Starter wiring, in your case the yellow wire and corresponding lug are not used.
I followed those instructions. It took me one shim to get pretty close, but i put in two just in case... either way i think it should turn over..
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 03:27 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by PolishMike
On the bench it pop out and spins fine.


I hope your joking...
I am, get rite of those aftermarket mini starters and go back to the small GM OEM starter.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:37 AM
  #33  
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The only thing I can think of is you've got two defective starters with identical symptoms, it's possible. If the starters are identical the possiblity is even greater.

Last edited by shafrs3; Jul 29, 2007 at 11:45 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 12:37 PM
  #34  
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What year block was used for the new engine?
If its 82 and later you need to use an 82 and later metric starter.
If you are using a sae starter pre 82 it will fit but not engage properly,
You will experience the following.

1) Starter will not engage properly
2) Shimming the starter motor will not help
3) Starter drive will not catch

which sounds like what you are experiencing.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 01:37 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Dell Boy
What year block was used for the new engine?
If its 82 and later you need to use an 82 and later metric starter.
If you are using a sae starter pre 82 it will fit but not engage properly,
You will experience the following.

1) Starter will not engage properly
2) Shimming the starter motor will not help
3) Starter drive will not catch

which sounds like what you are experiencing.
Hmm, didnt think about that.

The engine is a brand new zz502 crate. gen VI

This is the newer starter i am using
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

This should work, correct? If not, what do you suggest?
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 04:42 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Dell Boy
What year block was used for the new engine?
If its 82 and later you need to use an 82 and later metric starter.
If you are using a sae starter pre 82 it will fit but not engage properly,
You will experience the following.

1) Starter will not engage properly
2) Shimming the starter motor will not help
3) Starter drive will not catch

which sounds like what you are experiencing.
Does this take into account the flywheel ring gear and what year it is?
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 05:06 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
Does this take into account the flywheel ring gear and what year it is?

I have the keisler auto to manual tko600 kit. Not even sure what flywheel but i believe it is a 168, right?
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 09:46 PM
  #38  
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Up for solutions... I need help guys... I cant figure it out

EDIT: I ordered this monster starter.. Hopefully this will end it

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Last edited by PolishMike; Jul 29, 2007 at 10:18 PM.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 09:13 AM
  #39  
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If you have an 11" clutch, you have the 168 flywheel. the mini starters mount to 153 or 168, make sure you use the 168 mount.
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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 02:04 PM
  #40  
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Also....sometimes the starters have to be shimmed in order for the bendix to do it's job right.
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