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Ok, inn my 1972 coupe I have a tilt and tele column... I have it all removed from the car and have changed the ignitin switch but I just can't get the dang lock cylinder out.... read through the haynes manual and then the AIM and did just like what they said on the procedure but I can't get it out. Any help or pointers would be great... the lock cylinder is so bad that it freely turns with any key and as a matter of fact it turns even without a key in it... so I knnow it is badly worn.
If you look at your new ignition cylinder, you'll see a spring loaded latch at the bottom on the side, you need to release this latch to pull the old cylinder out. I assume you have removed all parts in the upper bowl down to and including the directional signal switch? On the right hand side (wheels straight) there is a curved slot recessed into the bowl casting. The slot will be closed if the lock has never been changed or it will be punched out if the lock has been changed before. If it's closed, you'll need to punch it through (gently) with a screwdriver and hammer, then turn the cylinder to the lock position and push on the latch (through the slot) to release it. It should pull out but it might be a little stubborn if it's not lined up just right inside the bowl. Hope this helps.
I have not even removed the steering wheel... I thought you could replace the lock cylinder without doing this.... I am a bit scared of removing the tilt and tele mechanisms.... but if I have to I have to...
Okay, you should have a factory service manual to guide you through this, but in the quest for free information I did a search for one of Jim Shea's papers that describe the procedure and here is the link. http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...dr1-23jn07.doc
It's not a difficult job, and you are only disassembling the upper internal portion of the column down to the bottom of the upper bowl, but you will need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate tool to do the job. Just keep track of all the parts and the order in which you removed them. Take pics to help you remember and find an exploded view of the column.
I don't have either of those tools... so I may just have to pay a shop to do this for me... which I hate...but if I have to do that I guess I have to...
Many automotive stores will loan you the steering wheel puller and the lock plate compressor tools. Those are the only two special tools that are required. Working on a T&T column may be a bit time consuming but I can assure you that you should be able to do it and save a lot of money.
All you need is my T&T Disassembly & Repair Paper #1 to replace the lock cylinder. You might want to download Disassembly & Repair Paper #2 to make sure that you adjusted the ignition switch properly. You really need the new lock cylinder installed into the steering column before you can properly adjust the ignition switch.
Here is a listing of papers and the URL address that can walk you right through removing the steering wheel; replacing the lock cylinder; and adjusting the ignition switch.
He has already changed the ignition switch. So he really does need to insure that it is installed correctly. It is a very easy procedure to insure that the steering column, lock cylinder, and the ignition switch are all synchronized.
Thanks for the links and all the info, I should have all this done by the weekend. I have a patient who owns a auto repair shop and he lets me have access to all the tools and everything I could ever need. I am going to do this job myself now that I have your papers! Again, thank you so much.
If there are any areas in the papers that are unclear or could be explained differently, I would appreciate your comments. Sometimes I think that I am so steeped in the engineering of the Saginaw steering products that I have difficulty explaining the procedures so less technical people can understand them.
Good luck,
Just remember that additional help is only a computer click away!
Jim
Sully,
Just a reminder. Most likely you will require a new urethane C-clip retainer. The retainer is right on top of your lock plate inside your steering column. If it is original, most likely it will crumble into many little pieces when you try to remove it.
It is readily available. So I would obtain a new one from your local GM dealer or from one of the many Corvette suppliers. GM part number 7808385 - (Retainer). Zip Products part number #SC-517 - (69-82 Cancelling Cam Plastic Retainer).
Although it is called a retainer (and it does provide that function) it is also very important in that it isolates the big telescoping spring from touching the metal locking plate and blowing your horn continuously.
I really appreciate the heads up on that retainer, I suspect that something has already been done with that or that the column has been opened before because the horn does not work or was disenguaged b/c it was no longer operative through the column but was initiated through a button on the shifter plate! I have since removed the " bubba rigging" and will be going through the column and correctly repairing it. I read through most of the instructions last night and I think I understood everything pretty easily. Even though I am a physician I am very technical and am pretty good with automotive repair. We shall see how the weekend goes! Again, thank you for the help!