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Does anyone know of a brand that has a fire and fuel resistant resin that can be poored into a mold. The objective would be to build a custom manifold.
As far as I know, that product does not exist. The high heat will cause delamination of the fibers. I don't know what kind of composite would handle an application like that. Carbon fiber is awfully brittle, and incredibly expensive. Why not just go with high strength carbon steel and have them jet hot coated (powder coated)?
I could be wrong, but I don't think there is such an animal, how about carbon fiber?
Originally Posted by 79L48
As far as I know, that product does not exist. The high heat will cause delamination of the fibers. I don't know what kind of composite would handle an application like that. Carbon fiber is awfully brittle, and incredibly expensive. Why not just go with high strength carbon steel and have them jet hot coated (powder coated)?
There is no heat in the manifold with EFI. All the new Vettes have composite manifolds (plastic or resin). The resin that is used to make carbon fiber would be fuel resistant (I don't know about fire resistance). If you use a composite manifold, you save a good deal of weight over the old cast manifolds.
How much heat can carbon fiber take? Why worry about the fireproof thing? There is no fire in the intake manifold. If the thing catches on fire, you got more to worry about than just the manifold
Actually some expert here said that these resins do exist and that they are mainly used in airplane technology.
Maybe I should explain the fireresistant thing : I mean that the intake has to be able to withstand an engine backfiring and producing maybe a high heat flame.
I read somewhere that 3m had these resins, but my mails did not get any reply.
Furthermore I was planning on pooring the resin in a mold, so i'm not planning on using any fibers at all.
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
We use Hysol resins at work, its a division of loctite. 956, 9321, 934 etc. all these resins are used on composit structures and withstand petrolium products. I'm sure you can find what you need there,, but be prepared to pay the price.
As for heat they most likly have a data sheet on all the products
A number years the Silverton Boat Company used a fire resistant resin in their boat building. The resin was not fuel proof. Contact West System about their epoxy resins. Good luck JAY
Try Magnolia plastics or Ad-Tech Systems. They both have aluminum or even ceramic filled epoxy casting systems. As far as pouring, the aluminum fillers pour infinitely better than any fiber materials. In a casting operation, the fibers tend to stick together and 'clog' the mold leaving voids behind the 'clog'. What are you going to build the mold from? Pourable RTV silicone might be the best bet. It is inherently non-stick and is made in various hardnesses(durometer).If you need more info, I'll be glad to help all that I can. I am a mold builder by profession, mostly fiberglass, polyurethanes and epoxies. Good Luck! thefourtaylors@bellsouth.net
PS: the aluminum-filled epoxies can be machined (ie.drilled, tapped and surfaced)just like real aluminum
Last edited by tobyte1; Aug 1, 2007 at 12:50 PM.
Reason: addition
Well as I said before I'm going to build an IR manifold for weber type throttle bodies (8). I did not find anything that fitted my needs. I was planning on first using a wood to build a basemanifold and here and there apply plasticine to get the shape correctly. Then I would fabricate the mold based on that model and then I would pour the resin in this mould.
I'm not sure if it would work however.
The material, apart from flame and fuel resistant, also has to be pretty hard like original aluminum. Getting threads in it would be nice but not absolutly necessary since it would be possible to glue studs into the plastic...
Well as I said before I'm going to build an IR manifold for weber type throttle bodies (8). I did not find anything that fitted my needs. I was planning on first using a wood to build a basemanifold and here and there apply plasticine to get the shape correctly. Then I would fabricate the mold based on that model and then I would pour the resin in this mould.
I'm not sure if it would work however.
The material, apart from flame and fuel resistant, also has to be pretty hard like original aluminum. Getting threads in it would be nice but not absolutly necessary since it would be possible to glue studs into the plastic...
What do the professionals think.
I think your on the right track. After building your pattern(be careful of the type of plasticine(clay) that you use),some will inhibit curing of the RTV silicone. Build a box that roughly conforms to the shape of your pattern and pour the silicone around the pattern. Unless the part(pattern) is shaped like a pyramid or shoebox, a silicone 'blanket' is the way to go. With it, you can form curves, radiuses and what ever shapes that you want. the silicone will also transfer textures. If you want the sand-cast look, coat your pattern with abrasive coating(ie no-slip paint). After the silicone has cured, remove the outer shell, remove the pattern with the silicone still around it and replace the silicone in the shell or mold box. Once the mold is built, just mix up your epoxy and filler(usually powdered aluminum), add catalyst and pour. If you want to go a step farther, place the poured mold in a chamber and pressurize to 2-3 atmospheres. That will compress and minimize the entrapped air bubbles that might occur. Again, good luck!
Do you have a name for the aluminum powdered product ?
Belgian, here is a link for the Ad-Tech system. I have used it many times for thermoforming tooling. This system is good at 300 degrees F continuosly. They have a higher heat version also.
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