gonna change all 4 of my half-shaft u-joints on sunday. was wondering what had to be done to get them out?? anything to be aware of?
Thanks
Chris

 

The 1/2 shaft joints are harder to get off then the drive shaft joints. If they have been replaced before then you might have better luck, the other guy might have even put some "never-sieze" on them for you. If not then you are probably going to need a press, or a very good vise. I did my 72's last year and they were the originals, no way a vise would work with them. I had to use a 20 ton press.Even with the press they were hard to remove, they all popped and cracked the end caps. Also you have to support the flange when removing the joint or else you will bend it, then it's junk. On mine I had to use a die grinder to cut them in 1/2 even though I had pressed them to one end while trying to remove them. Good Luck
Gary

 

To get them out, you just need to remove the 4 bolts on the inside and 4 bolts on the outside. You have to bend the tabs back on the French Locks on the outside to get a ratchet or wrench on the bolts. Make sure the car is in gear so it won't spin on you. And of course, secured on good jack stands before you get under there but that's a given. :D

Mine were a lot easier than GTR's. I did need a press, put they came out without too much difficulty. And as GTR said, make sure the flanges are supported when they are pressed out.






[Modified by 78Vette-SA, 6:47 AM 11/3/2001]

 

Getting the half shafts out was relatively easy. I was able to remove the u-joints with hand tools (drift pin & hammer :smash: ), but it was NOT easy. I soaked them with penetrating oil and they were still a pain to remove. If you don't have access to a press, I'd recommend at least checking prices in your area to press out the old and press in the new, then all you have to do is remove and reinstall the shafts themselves. I can't remember if it's recommended, but I'd mark the orientation of the shafts and put them back the same way (just like you would for the driveshaft) for balance sake.

Good Luck.

 

So you can remove the half shafts without removing the U-Joints and then take them somewhere to get them replaced?

(clueless about U-joints. :D)

 

Absolutely!

 

To remove the 1/2 shafts you have to un bolt the u-bolts or "straps" that hold on the inboard end of the 1/2 shaft to the side yokes of the differential. Be careful when you do this as the end caps of the u-joints will want to come off and all the tiny important roller bearings will come out. Run some electrical tape around the end caps, run it all the way around starting at one end cap and circling the entire 1/2 shaft a few times.
See the red circles below -- 4 nuts to remove.



To undo the outboard ends of the 1/2 shaft, you have to unbolt the 4 bolts of the drive flange - in the green circles.

After that take it to a machine shop to have the u-joints pressed in and out.

 

Sweet!

I'd always been kinda curious about that. :D

I'll probably have to mess with it in the spring...

 

I re-did my u-joints last year.
Once I had my half-shafts and axle removed, I took 'em to my machinist and had him media blast em. I then used POR-15 gloss black to make them look REAL slick :cool: .
The only thing to worry about is the placement of the grease nipple ( zerk )in relation to the rotation of the half-shaft/ drive axle.
I'm at work right now (violation of internet policy :nono: ) so I don't have my car mag collection to give you the right info.
From what I remember, though, the nipple is a weak spot where the U-joint will fail and break if it is installed incorrectly, and if enough pressure is applied.

What do you fellas think about zerkless u-joints??
Would the half-shafts be a good place to use 'em?? (its kinda hard to get a grease-gun nozzle in there anyway.)


[Modified by '75 383 ElkGrove, 6:21 PM 11/3/2001]

 

Thanks everone! I think ive got the idea down on what i have to do. And once its out im gonna bring it to a friends shop that races roundy rounds since he has a press. Knock 'em out and new ones in. And throw it back in. Hope to do it all in a day or less! I hope!!!

74VETTE
Senior Member


526 posts [100%]
Neptune City and Pomona NJ

whats involved with changing u-joints 2:23 AM 11/3/2001


gonna change all 4 of my half-shaft u-joints on sunday. was wondering what had to be done to get them out?? anything to be aware of?
Thanks
Chris
_______

My Car: 1974 Corvette-Navy Blue Metallic(28/WA352E)

Click here to see my 1974 Corvette!
Best 1/4 mile time yet-----> 13.01 @ 105 and not satified yet

ZZ4 with HOTCAM, edelbrock 750cfm carb and all the goodies!

Muncie M-21, with hurst comp plus shifter

3.55:1 Rear-End

Chambered exhaust with crossover

Custom forced ram air induction
My Other Car: 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.9 R/T

Flame Red

MBRP Muffler

K&N filter
My Quotes:
"SAVE THE WAVE!!!"
"My ZZ4 will blow you away like a stick of C4." <-------To all Ford owners
Me: Chris, Neptune City and Pomona, NJ, Student at Richard Stockton College of NJ studying Criminal Justice.


gtr1999
Senior Member


1888 posts [100%]
CT

Re: whats involved with changing u-joints (74VETTE) 6:21 AM 11/3/2001


The 1/2 shaft joints are harder to get off then the drive shaft joints. If they have been replaced before then you might have better luck, the other guy might have even put some "never-sieze" on them for you. If not then you are probably going to need a press, or a very good vise. I did my 72's last year and they were the originals, no way a vise would work with them. I had to use a 20 ton press.Even with the press they were hard to remove, they all popped and cracked the end caps. Also you have to support the flange when removing the joint or else you will bend it, then it's junk. On mine I had to use a die grinder to cut them in 1/2 even though I had pressed them to one end while trying to remove them. Good Luck
Gary
_______

GTR
'69 350,4 spd,3:36 conv.
'72 350,TH400,3:08 coupe.


78Vette-SA
Senior Member


762 posts [100%]
Newburgh, NY USA

Re: whats involved with changing u-joints (gtr1999) 6:46 AM 11/3/2001


To get them out, you just need to remove the 4 bolts on the inside and 4 bolts on the outside. You have to bend the tabs back on the French Locks on the outside to get a ratchet or wrench on the bolts. Make sure the car is in gear so it won't spin on you. And of course, secured on good jack stands before you get under there but that's a given.
Mine were a lot easier than GTR's. I did need a press, put they came out without too much difficulty. And as GTR said, make sure the flanges are supported when they are pressed out.

[Modified by 78Vette-SA, 6:47 AM 11/3/2001]
_______

Joe Santacroce | jsantacroce@hvc.rr.com
78 Silver Anniversary-B2Z | L82/AT/PS/PB/AC/TT
Frame-on/Like New (now!) | Photos at link below | Complete Web Update 2/19/01 http://home.hvc.rr.com/joesvette/

Also:
34 Ford Cabriolet In Progress
93LT1 (Carb'd) with 700R4 | 3.55 Mustang GT Rear http://home.hvc.rr.com/js34ford/- Updated 10/17/01


jerryp58
Senior Member


956 posts [100%]
Colonial Heights VA

Re: whats involved with changing u-joints (74VETTE) 7:07 AM 11/3/2001


Getting the half shafts out was relatively easy. I was able to remove the u-joints with hand tools (drift pin & hammer ), but it was NOT easy. I soaked them with penetrating oil and they were still a pain to remove. If you don't have access to a press, I'd recommend at least checking prices in your area to press out the old and press in the new, then all you have to do is remove and reinstall the shafts themselves. I can't remember if it's recommended, but I'd mark the orientation of the shafts and put them back the same way (just like you would for the driveshaft) for balance sake.
Good Luck.
_______




Chris Fowler '80
Senior Member


6779 posts [100%]
Round Rock TX

Re: whats involved with changing u-joints (jerryp58) 11:48 AM 11/3/2001


So you can remove the half shafts without removing the U-Joints and then take them somewhere to get them replaced?
(clueless about U-joints. )


78Vette-SA
Senior Member


762 posts [100%]
Newburgh, NY USA

Re: whats involved with changing u-joints (Chris Fowler '80) 12:09 PM 11/3/2001



quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So you can remove the half shafts without removing the U-Joints and then take them somewhere to get them replaced?
(clueless about U-joints. )


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Absolutely!
_______

Joe Santacroce | jsantacroce@hvc.rr.com
78 Silver Anniversary-B2Z | L82/AT/PS/PB/AC/TT
Frame-on/Like New (now!) | Photos at link below | Complete Web Update 2/19/01 http://home.hvc.rr.com/joesvette/

Also:
34 Ford Cabriolet In Progress
93LT1 (Carb'd) with 700R4 | 3.55 Mustang GT Rear http://home.hvc.rr.com/js34ford/- Updated 10/17/01


BSeery , the bearings you are talking about are inside the u-joint i presume....just gotta make sure theyy dont pop out when putting the new ones in.....correct me if im wrong??

Thanks again
Chris

 

Eight years ago, a friend showed me how to "cut-out" the centers with a torch, then while the end caps are hot, they literally just pop-out with one or two taps. I've done four C3s this way and I love it!!! I have all six joints cut out in a matter of minutes!!! I just cut closest to the "X" of the joint itself, tap out the end caps and install the new ones.

Also, make dam_ sure your new ones are "centered" so they "swivel" freely. If they don't, and they are on a "bind", you'll be redoing them very soon, unless you only put a hundred or two miles on it a year. I've seen people take their shafts to so-called proshops to have this done and I've ended up redoing them!!! :yesnod: :rolleyes:

 

Paul are you saying you cut the center out and leave the "legs"? That's one way I haven't tried but will when I do another set.
Gary

 

That's some excellent advices Paul!
I got a hard lesson when I replaced mine. There is an article on the subject at my page, see technical section.

 

FU*CK!!
as many of you said, i have to support the flanges as i press them out, and i did!
but apparently they were already bent from another time when they were changed. The old clips were pushing out like the flange was too small and the u-joint was too large. I didnt think much of it and then it put the new ones in, i couldnt even get the clips on nevermind try to turn it........that probably why the joints went bad already.
Guess im going to have to order new flanges now..like i can afford them or something :nonod:
I dont have any catalogs with me now since im not home,,,,,anyone nkow how much they go for?? and where to get them?
Thanks
Chris

 

Bummer. :mad

They're $38 at Zip Products.
http://store.yahoo.com/zipproducts/zip-su-208.html

 

ohh man :crazy: :cry
im sorry i asked....rediculous considering the u-joints only cost 15 bucks
LoL

thanks

 

Gary, the "legs" as you reffered to them are what's left of the u-joint after what you cut-out just drops out. When I cut the u-joint out, I have the shaft laying on two 8"x8" pieces of wood spread out about an inch. It "cradles" the halfshaft(I have the end of whatever shaft I'm working on overhanging)so that the middle of the cut u-joint drops to the ground. I've done 4 or 5 cars like this and it's the only way for me to do it!!! You can have 6 u-joints out in a matter of a halfhour or so, then when the shaft cools, I'm already installing the new u-joint.

 

Thanks Paul,
I'll try that the next time I have to do u-joints.
Gary