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Not Both, they would tend to defeat each other.
Its been my impression , self aligning rockers is not the best choice for an engine making 375-400+ HP. I researched it with My 383 engine build ,what I read made me opt for Guide plates.
BTW..did you find the cause of your engine failure?
Not Both, they would tend to defeat each other.
Its been my impression , self aligning rockers is not the best choice for an engine making 375-400+ HP. I researched it with My 383 engine build ,what I read made me opt for Guide plates.
BTW..did you find the cause of your engine failure?
I think I did. GuidePlates with Self-Aligning Rockers... Could this cause the Value to stick open, thus causing a piston to value contact?
I am just trying to make sure before I take the next step...
Just a little clarification - "Guided Tip" Rockers are the ones that you do not want to use with guideplates. They have a slot in the end of the rocker arm where the valve stem rides. The old school rockers do not have this feature and those are the ones that can use guideplates.
Its been my impression , self aligning rockers is not the best choice for an engine making 375-400+ HP. I researched it with My 383 engine build ,what I read made me opt for Guide plates.
GM has used self-aligning rockers in some pretty high HP applications...like the LT4.
GM has used self-aligning rockers in some pretty high HP applications...like the LT4.
There is nothing "wrong" with using them, just do it without guideplates and do it for hydraulic cams only.
This factory application stuff gets confusing because there are some GM engines out there that use something that looks like a guideplate. It is not a guideplate but it is used as an assembly aid from the factory. You can not combine the guided tip with the guide plate.
BTW - GM has stopped selling the old style stamped steel rocker arms for service. The only stamped rocker they sell today is the "guided tip" style. These are not advised to be used with a true guideplate.
The real reason the guided tip rocker arms suck IMHO is that setting lash on a solid lifter cam is more challenging. It is difficult to slide a common feeler guage in there because of the guided tip.
I think I did. GuidePlates with Self-Aligning Rockers... Could this cause the Value to stick open, thus causing a piston to value contact?
I am just trying to make sure before I take the next step...
Well, It May not be so bad to rebuild..I sure think it would have to be torn down and the Crank&Rod specked for any distortion. If the cylinder wall is OK, It shouldnt be too much to get Back togeather...I would definitly have it looked at closely or Wouldnt have much confidence that its OK.
Well, It May not be so bad to rebuild..I sure think it would have to be torn down and the Crank&Rod specked for any distortion. If the cylinder wall is OK, It shouldnt be too much to get Back togeather...I would definitly have it looked at closely or Wouldnt have much confidence that its OK.
Keep us Posted Please..
At the point, a new short block is on the engine stand. The cost of having the other engine checked and rebuilt is almost the same as a new block. I now have almost everything I need to rebuild the engine.
Outstanding Issues:
1. Pushrod length.
2. What is the manufacture going to do about the Heads?
3. How much $$$ if any, can I get from the engine builder (They installed the heads and cam).
Engine assembly is a first for me… I am in new territory..
OK I got the new engine in the car and I am trying to find TDC on #1
Its 350HO with 1.6 Rockers and Hot Cam.
I need to find TDC to install distributor.
Will this work?
I lined up the timing marks on the timing set. (Cam @ 6 and Crank @ 12)
before I installed the timing cover. Over the course of installing the flywheel, pulleys, etc., I am not sure how many times the engine has turned.
I have rotated the engine back to where the Balancer indicates TDC. Everything is in place but the distributor.
Question????
When I drop the distributor in, point the cap to the #1 plug wire and the engine does not fire after slight adjustments to the distributor (timing), can I rotate the distributor cap about 180 degrees and a try again?
My usual help is unavailable so I have to fly Solo on this one.
Take the valve cover off for the #1 cylinder. Move the crank by hand and watch the intake valve go down and back up without the exhaust valve moving at all. If your timing mark is accurate on the damper then line it up and you are at TDC at the ignition point, and not 180* out. Place in the distributor. Remember that the oil pump shaft may not line up right away, so don’t force it. Move the rotor around so that it falls onto the shaft and then you can move the shaft around one tooth at a time until you have lined up the rotor with the #1 post. Form there you can adjust the housing to get the proper timing.
With cam gear mark at 6 o'clock and crank gear mark at 12 o'clock your actually "timed" for TDC of Cylinder #6 (both valves closed). Doesn't really matter since the engine (motors are electric) usually gets rotated again during assembly. You can use the method discribed above but I would add to rotate the oil pump drive into position with a long screwdriver to help "drop" the disributor in position.
Don't let you buddies talk you into "just bump it over with the key and it will drop in". Yes it can be done, over twenty-five years and a long time friend still does this method and I always have to go back and do it right cause it skipped a tooth or more. Usually just when the customer arrives to pick up the car.
If you use self aligning rockers, you have to clearance the pushrod holes.
On my 64 coupe, some the pushrods clearanced the holes themselves and caused the rockers to walk right of the valve stem and snap the pushrod. I bought a set of GM self-aligning with newer GM thick walled pushrods (same OD as the originals).. and checked them as I put them in.. all was fine.
On my 64 coupe, some the pushrods clearanced the holes themselves and caused the rockers to walk right of the valve stem and snap the pushrod. I bought a set of GM self-aligning with newer GM thick walled pushrods (same OD as the originals).. and checked them as I put them in.. all was fine.
-F
Your old pushrods saved you the trouble of having to clearance the the pushrod holes for the self aligning rockers. As long as they don't bind, you're ok.
With cam gear mark at 6 o'clock and crank gear mark at 12 o'clock your actually "timed" for TDC of Cylinder #6 (both valves closed). Doesn't really matter since the engine (motors are electric) usually gets rotated again during assembly. You can use the method discribed above but I would add to rotate the oil pump drive into position with a long screwdriver to help "drop" the disributor in position.
Don't let you buddies talk you into "just bump it over with the key and it will drop in". Yes it can be done, over twenty-five years and a long time friend still does this method and I always have to go back and do it right cause it skipped a tooth or more. Usually just when the customer arrives to pick up the car.
Have fun,
Later.
Give the man a beer . I got one of a remote starter to bump the engine. And sure enough when I found the compression stroke on #1, the distributor was pointing to #6. Pulled the distributor and turned rotor 180 degrees back to #1 and it started.