New Brakes
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Canton, Ga
New Brakes
Just finished installing all 4 calipers and master cylinder on my 69. It was not really a hard job, now I just have to bleed the system. (wife must rest first)
I have been over numerous ways to bleed the system but the manual says to
start with LR, RR, LF then RF. I am thinking that if done right it really does not matter anyway. Any comments?? thanks for any suggestions
I have been over numerous ways to bleed the system but the manual says to
start with LR, RR, LF then RF. I am thinking that if done right it really does not matter anyway. Any comments?? thanks for any suggestions
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,310
Likes: 1
Re: New Brakes (TR69)
I hope it doesn't matter, because I did mine backwards :eek:
I just assumed that the order was farthest to closest (RR, LR, RF, LF) to the MC and never even looked in the manual.
Of course, I'm assuming again that they're calling the driver's side the left and the passenger's side the right :crazy:
BTW, my brakes have done fine since I bled them 6 months ago (wood :smash: ).
Oh, as far as suggestions; all I can say is that the next time I bleed my brakes I'll go with the manual's order.
[Modified by jerryp58, 9:58 PM 11/3/2001]
I just assumed that the order was farthest to closest (RR, LR, RF, LF) to the MC and never even looked in the manual.
Of course, I'm assuming again that they're calling the driver's side the left and the passenger's side the right :crazy:
BTW, my brakes have done fine since I bled them 6 months ago (wood :smash: ).
Oh, as far as suggestions; all I can say is that the next time I bleed my brakes I'll go with the manual's order.
[Modified by jerryp58, 9:58 PM 11/3/2001]
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Lititz PA
Re: New Brakes (TR69)
I just replaced four calipers on my 71 and replaced the rubber hoses with braided hoses. It was a straight forward job. I placed the front calipers on and bled the brakes; then moved to the rear brakes. This assured me that if their was a problem I could limit the possibilites. The bleeding of the brakes was the easiest part of the job. Make sure you have a good supply of brake fluid, and have someone to help your pump and hold the brakes. Good luck. :cheers:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,310
Likes: 1
Re: New Brakes (Jenny)
Jenny,
I bought a set of flare wrenches before I did mine, but there were a couple of flare nuts that were already "rounded" and I would have rounded a couple of more if I hadn't used good old vise-grips on them.
I wish there were flare-torque wrenches because I have a tendency to overtighten :rolleyes: which I did replacing the rear crossover line and broke the rear block :mad . Torque what you can and be careful with everything else. You can always tighten it more later if it leaks.
All-in-all, it's not a bad job.
Bleeding is kind of problematic. Sometimes it's a Royal PITA, other times it's a piece of cake. When my daughter & I did mine (I prefer the "two-man", or in this case, the "father-daughter" method), I ran fluid through until I wasn't getting any "junk" (or air) in the catch jar. Some here have painstakingly flushed their lines with alcohol (usually when switching to or from synthetic).
I bought a set of flare wrenches before I did mine, but there were a couple of flare nuts that were already "rounded" and I would have rounded a couple of more if I hadn't used good old vise-grips on them.
I wish there were flare-torque wrenches because I have a tendency to overtighten :rolleyes: which I did replacing the rear crossover line and broke the rear block :mad . Torque what you can and be careful with everything else. You can always tighten it more later if it leaks.
All-in-all, it's not a bad job.
Bleeding is kind of problematic. Sometimes it's a Royal PITA, other times it's a piece of cake. When my daughter & I did mine (I prefer the "two-man", or in this case, the "father-daughter" method), I ran fluid through until I wasn't getting any "junk" (or air) in the catch jar. Some here have painstakingly flushed their lines with alcohol (usually when switching to or from synthetic).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Canton, Ga
Re: New Brakes (Jenny)
Some of the fittings were almost rounded off so no wrench would do it. When putting everthing back I just used Sears best regular tools. Had no problems.
Bleeding them now but I am having a problem getting the fluid to get into the first caliper. Maybe I did not bleed the master cylinder enough. Am going out now to start over.
Over all brakes do not require a rocket scientist.,,.
Bleeding them now but I am having a problem getting the fluid to get into the first caliper. Maybe I did not bleed the master cylinder enough. Am going out now to start over.
Over all brakes do not require a rocket scientist.,,.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Canton, Ga
Re: New Brakes (1971 454)
any suggestions on getting the fluid to start flowing?? I have pumped the heck out of the pedal but fluid does not flow to the rear caliper....what have I done wrong?? Going out to re-bleed the MC......thanks
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Canton, Ga
Re: New Brakes (jerryp58)
A little air is coming out of the tube. I put a plastic tube on the fitting and the other end in a small bottle with fluid.
I did re-bleed the MC and a lot more air came out. I think maybe that was the problem. Still there is no fluid coming out the rear caliper. Played with LF and it was starting to flow just a little. I figure it just takes more time. Did notice more fluid leaving the MC after the re-bleed. Any other suggestions, does it always take a while for the fluid to start??
I did re-bleed the MC and a lot more air came out. I think maybe that was the problem. Still there is no fluid coming out the rear caliper. Played with LF and it was starting to flow just a little. I figure it just takes more time. Did notice more fluid leaving the MC after the re-bleed. Any other suggestions, does it always take a while for the fluid to start??
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: Mannford, OK, USA
Re: New Brakes (TR69)
I did a complete brake job early this summer on my 74. After completely bleeding the master cylinder, start with caliper furthest from the m/c(Pass rear). There are 2 bleeders. Bleed the highest first, then the other. Next do the driv rear, pass front, and lastly. the driv front.
As to method, I did a gravity bleed of each caliper , in the above sequence, and then rebled with my wife pumping the peddel.
To gravity bleed, put 1 inch of clean brake fluid in a clean, clear container. Then attach a piece of clear tubing(I used a piece of acid overflow tube for a motorcycle battery) over the bleeder with the other end submerged in the clean fluid. Then open the bleeder. Leave it open until fluid starts coming out of the bleeder. Close the bleeder and move to the next bleeder until you've done all of them. (some bled in 1/2 hour of so but one went over three hours until I gave up on it.
(See my next post)
As to method, I did a gravity bleed of each caliper , in the above sequence, and then rebled with my wife pumping the peddel.
To gravity bleed, put 1 inch of clean brake fluid in a clean, clear container. Then attach a piece of clear tubing(I used a piece of acid overflow tube for a motorcycle battery) over the bleeder with the other end submerged in the clean fluid. Then open the bleeder. Leave it open until fluid starts coming out of the bleeder. Close the bleeder and move to the next bleeder until you've done all of them. (some bled in 1/2 hour of so but one went over three hours until I gave up on it.
(See my next post)
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: Mannford, OK, USA
Re: New Brakes (majglc)
It's then time to proceed to manuel bleeding. Rehook the tubing to the Pass rear top bleederwith the other end in 1" of new fluid. Have your wife push and hold the peddel. Open the bleeder and leave it open until there is no air in the tube.(It may take a few times of just getting air out until you even get any fluid - you'll be able to tell when to close the bleeder) Close the bleeder. Have your wife release the peddle. Close the bleeder. Repeat until there is no ier coming out of the bleeder. Do each caliper in the sequence listed in my previous message.
After the gravity bleed, this was fairly quick
Important notes
ALways have the mc open when gravity bleeding
Always have the mc closed when manuel bleeding
Do not let the mc get to low on fluid (I topped it off between each caliper
Good luck(It's easier than it sounds)
After the gravity bleed, this was fairly quick
Important notes
ALways have the mc open when gravity bleeding
Always have the mc closed when manuel bleeding
Do not let the mc get to low on fluid (I topped it off between each caliper
Good luck(It's easier than it sounds)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 24
From: Austin TX
Re: New Brakes (Turbo-Jet)
I recently did a complete brake job on my car. Very important to bleed the MC where only fluid flows up when you press on the brakes, otherwise you may run into problems. One thing I know is the manual bleeding took quite a long time for the rear and I had to refill the MC at least once. I used the "pump four times and hold" method and that had to be done quite a few times. Just be patient, the fluid will come ;)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Canton, Ga
Re: New Brakes (mrbeaubo)
Thanks to all for the advice. I am going to stop off and buy one of those "mighty vacs" bleeders on the way home
just to make sure.
I hope to finish up this eve... [IMG][/IMG]
just to make sure.
I hope to finish up this eve... [IMG][/IMG]
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Re: New Brakes (TR69)
Mighty vacs suck! (really )
I tried bleeding brakes that way and so much air comes in around the bleeder screw that you can't tell if the air is out of the brake lines!
The best way is the 'father/daughter' method, followed by the girlfriend method , then the son method, and lastly the wife method, the mighty vac is just above the wife method.... :smash:
I tried bleeding brakes that way and so much air comes in around the bleeder screw that you can't tell if the air is out of the brake lines!
The best way is the 'father/daughter' method, followed by the girlfriend method , then the son method, and lastly the wife method, the mighty vac is just above the wife method.... :smash:
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: New Brakes (TR69)
I have a vaccum bleeder and I find so much air is comming in around the bleeder threads that you can't tell when all the air has stopped. I made a pressure bleeder and use about 10 or 20 lbs of air to push the fluid through and that works great if you are working alone. The 2 person thing works great if you can find someone with a strong leg or two.
I have also run into problems with the proportioning valve limiting flow to the back brakes.
I have also run into problems with the proportioning valve limiting flow to the back brakes.