Tonight we replaced the rear spring bushings - no issues.


Started on the strut rod bushings after using extreme force - got the top bolt undone and the top of the rod pryed out. started on the bottom and it is frozen in place. I used a 10lb sledge and it wont budge. I am afraid of breaking the ears off of the carrier assy.

What is the piece called where the shock and the strut rod mounts - so I can buy new ones. I will just cut the old one out.


Second Question: On the top of the strut rod - there were washers. I could not get them back in there with the poly bushings. Do they need to be there?

It might have been possible if the bottom bushing wasn't causing the rod to twist.

Thanks!

 

I think your talking about the shock mounts which feed through the the outer strut rods & has a castle nut on the end. These are notorious for rust seizing in place. There is a tool which is bsaically a thread on capped nut that goes onto those threads so you can proceed to smash the lvg sheet out of it & save the threads. It may work if you can get a good swing onto it with a sledge hammer. Use a lot of PB blaster for a few days before. It may help. I know the hell your going through as I had the same thing happen a few yrs ago. I ended up removing the bearing assembly from the trailing arm with the shock mount & strut in place as I wasn't able to smash it out. I took it to Vansteel for a bearing rebuild & they were able to remove it . Its still a useable piece today as I was able to remove mine today for some new strut rod bushings. I coated it with antiseize before reinstalling it.
The washers on the inner rod (top, next to differential ) have square washers on each ends than a flat one on the outside off that followed by a regular lock washer. Do you have the aftermarket adjustable struts or the factory ones? I had to do some sledge hammer work today getting the new poly bushings back into the rabbit ear area on the pass side for some reason. I could swear that the area contracted when I had to replace the strut rod. Its in there now but as far as the washers go it wasn't a problem. You don't mean that there are washers between the bushing & inside of carrier?

 

I can't visualize it right now, but it might not be possible to just slide the rods off. And don't quote me on that, but when I replaced my strut rod bushings I removed the lower shock mount and shock completely. I don't remember why but I did it for some reason...

 

It's the shock mount. The inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing is rusted to the mount...an oxy/acetelyne torch will bust it loose.

 

Would I be able to get it hot enough with MAPP gas?

The washers I was refering to were on the outside of the bushing - but between the ears on the mount.

 

Maybe...depends on the rust. I had to get the inner sleeves glowing red to get the shock mounts out.

What do the bushing instructions say?

 

The Map gas probably won't get you there. If it doesn't, strut rods are cheaper than carriers, hacksaw off the outside shell of the strutrod, cut away the rubber and then chisel the seam on the sleeve to get it loose from the shock mount and peel it off. Use LOTS of PB Blaster and a little heat on the carrier and some judicious hammer and they will come out. It is keyed in there with a flat on one side so twisting will do no good.

 

You need the 4 washers that are on the inboard bushings. Wether you use poly or rubber. They are reducing washers. If you don't use them the strut rod will move around.

 

Funny you say this... I did this job not even a month ago!

1. You'll need new lower shock mounts.
2. I would put the washers there. I too replaced the struts with poly bushings. I put the washers on buy using a C-clamp styled visegrip then hammered it into the bracket. Took a few tries but shes in now! If you don't use the washers your alignment will never be accurate! If you stick the bolt without the washers you'll notice that there is play, but the play is gone when the washers are in place.

 

Not necessarily...I was able to re-use both of mine, and one was stuck horribly.

 

Thanks for all the great info.

New Shock mounts are $44.95
new strut rods are $52.00

How much hammering can those take? I put the castle nut on it then used a short socket to hammer on.

Anyone tried an air chissle to hammer it out?

Thanks again!

 

Go to autozone with the castle nut. Buy a Truck lug nut the same thread. Mine is about 1" deep. Screw it on, taper out until you are about 1/8 from the end of the shock mount. This will save the threads and give you something to hit. I have removed 8 of the shock mounts using this method in the past year with a 2 lb hammer and saved them all. 1 63, 2 68's and 1 72. No damage to threads, mounts or carrier ears. Before trying to remove PB Blaster and let it sit a day or two then hit it again with PB before trying to remove. Once it moves you have to back the nut off some and hit it, back the nut off some and hit it.

 

I threaded this on

http://ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=A2563&dept_id=120

and beat the HELL out of it with a hammer

The shock mounts were usuable.

I tried a knocker on my air chisel and that didn't do squat.

 

The shock mount bolts were rusted tight to the strut rod. One side came out, I broke an "ear" off the other hub assembly. (BTW Van Steel did a great job on the rebuild.)

I sprayed the shock mount bolt/strut rod with PB Blaster and let it soak-in for days - when I finally got them apart the rust was still DRY.

You might try to fabricate a little "baggie" around the joint and SUBMERGE the shock bolt in a light oil like ATF. Let it soak for DAYS, that might penetrate the joint.

Don't beat on it too much - figure on replacing the shock mount bolts as the least expensive item to replace.

 

This took my son and I about 6 hours to cut this out of here.

I have an air powered cut off tool but the blades aren't big enough to go all the way through.

The center piece that is 3 different pieces stuck together is over an Inch in diameter.

I have a VARIABLE SPEED RECIPROCATING SAW that just kept eating up blades.

We still have to do the other side. Is there any blade that wont wear out in the first minute of cutting?

 

Anyone?

 

fine tooth blade, run it as slow as possible and keep it wet with cutting oil.

 

Some of these pieces are grade 8 so they are really hard to cut. I went through 4 Rescue blades to get the trailing arm bolts off my 72 frame.



Rick B.

 

this was the shock mount removal tool, screw it on until it hits bottom,then give it some serious straight on smacks with the BIG hammer


On the diff side with the strut rod bracket I just ended up twisting the bolts off. Once the strut rods were out I removed the old bushings with a hole saw


For reassembly I used new poly bushings, bolts and washers.

 

A 3/8 NPT pipe cap is about $0.75 at ACE hardware, and the threads line up with those on the shock mount. Yes, one is a pipe thread and one is a bolt thread, but by some strange convergence they match. Since I was able to re-use both of my shock mounts, the pipe cap obviously protected the threads.