Gravity Bleeding Rear Brakes

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Aug 7, 2007 | 06:47 AM

Ybnormal

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 478

Likes: 3

From: Huntsville AL

Gravity Bleeding Rear Brakes

When gravity bleeding the rear calipers should both bleeder valves be open on both rear calipers or should the right rear be done first, then left rear?

Also should both bleeder valves be open or inner first then other or other first then inner?

I'm so confused...

YBnormal...drive a vette

Aug 7, 2007 | 07:01 AM

82MDVette

Drifting

Joined: Jun 2005

Posts: 1,725

Likes: 0

From: Hanover Maryland

Good Question. How is the gravity feeding done on a Vette? Anyone?

Aug 7, 2007 | 07:23 AM

Durango_Boy

Team Owner

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 24,125

Likes: 15

From: Columbia Missouri

To properly gravity bleed, open rear bleeders. If you have two bleeds in each rear caliper open the ones at the highest position on the caliper.

Leave the cap off of the master but make sure it's topped off.

Sometimes it takes a around a full day, 24 hours, for the fluid to make it all the way down to the back calipers and start dripping out. That's the goal. Gravity should pull the fluid from the master down to each caliper.

Then, bleed as normal.

Aug 7, 2007 | 09:51 AM

TopGunn

Drifting

Joined: May 2005

Posts: 1,629

Likes: 4

From: Somers CT

I screwed around with mine for weekend trying to get air out by this method, must have gone through two big bottles of fluid. I finally broke down and bought a pressure bleeder and got the job done in 15 minutes. It's a VERY worthwhile investment!

Aug 7, 2007 | 10:12 AM

rcread

Race Director

Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 10,628

Likes: 132

From: Duvall, WA

Your rear calipers should have two bleeders at the top - inner and outer. They both need to be bled. Don't bleed the one at the bottom. Do one bleeder at a time.

Aug 7, 2007 | 03:31 PM

Tecdiverfl

Racer

Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 291

Likes: 6

From: Delray Beach FL

I tried for 2 days to bleed mine and still could not get all the air out. I have a pressure bleeder on order. Save yourself a lot of time and grief and order one from summit racing. Cost me $70 with shipping

Aug 7, 2007 | 04:05 PM

mrvette

Team Owner

Joined: Jul 1999

Posts: 65,492

Likes: 230

From: Orange Park Florida

ME being cheep....drill two holes in the top of the m/cyl lid...reinstall with the intact gasket....don't drill IT....and full of fluid....take your air hose and lightly pressureise the sector that wont' bleed right....

this forces fluid down with no up stroke on seals....obviously the bleeders are open...one is fine for the rears....when there is lotsa air in the lines, the seals on the relax stroke just allow the air to de compress and don't do a damn thing about forcing fluids through the lines...

hense my concept of a built in pressure from top bleeder....works fine for me...obvously seal the top holes with RTV something, clean...

maybe shove a screw in it for next time??

Aug 7, 2007 | 04:31 PM

Tim81

Burning Brakes

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 1,058

Likes: 27

From: Eastern North Carolina

This is what works for me. I connect a clear hose from the bleeder screw into a bottle with some brake fluid in it. Make sure the tube fits tight at the bleeder and the end of the tube in the bottle is covered by some fluid. Position the bottle about the same height as the bleeder screws. Fill up the master cylinder put the cover on. Open the bleeder screw and slowly push the brake pedal to the floor and then let it snap back. Repeat this about 10 times, then close the bleeder and check the fluid level in the master cylinder. Check the hose from the bleeder to the bottle, it should be full of fluid with no air bubbles. Repeat the process until there are no signs of air. Hope I explained this correctly it works great for me.