Quick brake question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Tracy Ca
Quick brake question
Ok, so i have a brand new VBP brake kit installed and am now trying to put the fluid in the first time. I am trying to bleed the system and I get fluid going to the front brakes but not the rear.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 32,519
Likes: 1
From: central America
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
How far back are you getting fluid?
Is there a leak anywhere?
Check your brake lines for kinks.
Also, it takes a lot of brake fluid to get to the rear (long distance of travel).
Is there a leak anywhere?
Check your brake lines for kinks.
Also, it takes a lot of brake fluid to get to the rear (long distance of travel).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 1
From: SOUTH ELGIN IL
I will be very interested in how you solve the problem. I've got to order a new kit from VB&P this week since my brakes, front and rear, are completely shot (don't work at all) and the car is stuck in the garage.
Did you buy the C5 upgrade kit for the fronts?
I'm curious how it all went together...
Did you buy the C5 upgrade kit for the fronts?
I'm curious how it all went together...
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Did you bench bleed? Are you gravity bleeding?Are you rushing it,if you are gravity bleeding it takes a long time for the fluid to reach the rear.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Tracy Ca
I did not bench bleed. I am going to do this when i get home. From what i see the fluid is being pulled from the front fluid reservoir on the master cylinder and not at all from the rear one. This leads me to believe that the fluid is not going anywhere to the rear. What could cause this?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I did not bench bleed. I am going to do this when i get home. From what i see the fluid is being pulled from the front fluid reservoir on the master cylinder and not at all from the rear one. This leads me to believe that the fluid is not going anywhere to the rear. What could cause this?
If you stepped on the brake pedal without first gravity bleeding you could have upset the proportioning valve.Once you remove the master to bench bleed -it should reset.After you bench bleed and put the lines back in the cylinder-tap the fittings at the master before tightening up to help the air to come out especially the rear fitting.Then let the gravity move the fluid to the rear after opening LR inner bleeder.Dont do a lot of pumping this makes foam and foam is hell to get out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
There is a way to bench bleed with the master still in the car. It is not as easy as pulling the master cylinder, but it is easier than trying to push the master piston by hand on the bench.
First disconnect your brake lines from the master. Then attach two short lines to the master and route them back up into the resevoir. push on the brake pedal several times until there are no more bubbles forming in the resevoir.
Here is a pic of how the lines look routed back to the master.
First disconnect your brake lines from the master. Then attach two short lines to the master and route them back up into the resevoir. push on the brake pedal several times until there are no more bubbles forming in the resevoir.
Here is a pic of how the lines look routed back to the master.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Tracy Ca
There is a way to bench bleed with the master still in the car. It is not as easy as pulling the master cylinder, but it is easier than trying to push the master piston by hand on the bench.
First disconnect your brake lines from the master. Then attach two short lines to the master and route them back up into the resevoir. push on the brake pedal several times until there are no more bubbles forming in the resevoir.
Here is a pic of how the lines look routed back to the master.
First disconnect your brake lines from the master. Then attach two short lines to the master and route them back up into the resevoir. push on the brake pedal several times until there are no more bubbles forming in the resevoir.
Here is a pic of how the lines look routed back to the master.
Any ideas?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
Did you do all the bleeders? In the correct sequence? There are two bleed screws per caliper.
Also, when you bleed the brakes be prepared to go through a lot of fluid. I think I went through two quarts just the get the pedal feel I like. Just keep bleeding in the correct sequence and you will build pressure.
Also, when you bleed the brakes be prepared to go through a lot of fluid. I think I went through two quarts just the get the pedal feel I like. Just keep bleeding in the correct sequence and you will build pressure.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Tracy Ca
Did you do all the bleeders? In the correct sequence? There are two bleed screws per caliper.
Also, when you bleed the brakes be prepared to go through a lot of fluid. I think I went through two quarts just the get the pedal feel I like. Just keep bleeding in the correct sequence and you will build pressure.
Also, when you bleed the brakes be prepared to go through a lot of fluid. I think I went through two quarts just the get the pedal feel I like. Just keep bleeding in the correct sequence and you will build pressure.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
Proportioning or Brake Warning Switch may be stuck. If your brake warning light is illuminated on the dash you will need to re-centre your switch. Follow brake lines from master cylinder to next component downstream, this is the switch. It will restrict the fluid flow to either the front or rear brakes if not in the center position. 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Tracy Ca
Proportioning or Brake Warning Switch may be stuck. If your brake warning light is illuminated on the dash you will need to re-centre your switch. Follow brake lines from master cylinder to next component downstream, this is the switch. It will restrict the fluid flow to either the front or rear brakes if not in the center position.
How do i center the switch if i need to?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
In order to re-centre you have to apply a hard brake pressure application. Generally you will need to have good pressure on both front and rear brakes in order to re-centre.
You can find more information by looking for proportioning valve, brake pressure warning or combination valve, in manuals or search. Unfortunately, this switch/valve goes by many names.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Tracy Ca
Think of this switch as a sleeve with a piston inside. When the switch is not activated (no brake warning light on dash), switch is in centre position. If either the front or rear loses brake pressure because of a fluid leak, the piston moves internally from the centre position to one end of the sleeve, restricting fluid pressure to one half of the brake system and illuminates the warning light.
In order to re-centre you have to apply a hard brake pressure application. Generally you will need to have good pressure on both front and rear brakes in order to re-centre.
You can find more information by looking for proportioning valve, brake pressure warning or combination valve, in manuals or search. Unfortunately, this switch/valve goes by many names.
In order to re-centre you have to apply a hard brake pressure application. Generally you will need to have good pressure on both front and rear brakes in order to re-centre.
You can find more information by looking for proportioning valve, brake pressure warning or combination valve, in manuals or search. Unfortunately, this switch/valve goes by many names.
Should i be able to push the pedal down to the floor? I was under the impression that i should not be able to do that.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
Ok i believe that is what happened. However i hooked up a little hand vacuum pump to the rear brakes and that must have popped the control valve back to center because all of the brakes are now getting fluid.
Should i be able to push the pedal down to the floor? I was under the impression that i should not be able to do that.
Should i be able to push the pedal down to the floor? I was under the impression that i should not be able to do that.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Tracy Ca
Is there anywhere it could be leaking that i wouldnt be able to see fluid coming out? Ive checked every possible connection and they all seem fine... Any sure ways to check? ie air compressor rigged up to a bleeder?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
pressure builds a bit as the pedal gets harder and harder to push down but i am still able to push it to the floor.
Is there anywhere it could be leaking that i wouldnt be able to see fluid coming out? Ive checked every possible connection and they all seem fine... Any sure ways to check? ie air compressor rigged up to a bleeder?
Is there anywhere it could be leaking that i wouldnt be able to see fluid coming out? Ive checked every possible connection and they all seem fine... Any sure ways to check? ie air compressor rigged up to a bleeder?
You still have air in the system! Keep bleeding until you have good pedal pressure. If you have a leak it will be obvious, fluid can't hide.
