79 Brake booster access.....
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 96,209
Likes: 75
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '09
79 Brake booster access.....
I need some advice for my brother. He is having a hard time changing out a buddies power brake booster from a 79. He can't get to the two top retaining nuts.
For guys that have changed this out, where is the access.....?
Any short cuts or tips would be greatly appreciated.....
For guys that have changed this out, where is the access.....?
Any short cuts or tips would be greatly appreciated.....
Last edited by Dave1; Aug 13, 2007 at 10:31 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
The top two nuts are tough to get to. It is slow going. Remove the drivers seat and it will give you a little more room to get under there and work on it. Use a deep socket, Gearwrench, Craftsman socket cap set, ratcheting thumbwheels, or a combination of the above, anything so you can get to the nut to turn it. It takes as long to get it put back on as it does to remove it. The clevis pin is a real PITA to get back in too. This was not one of GMs finest pieces of engineering - they must have had a trainee design this part of the car.
If you are putting on a brand new, not remanufactured booster the mounting studs may be larger than the original too.
There is what looks like a cover or access panel in the firewall (in the windshield wiper trough) directly above where the booser goes in. Don't bother scraping off the old black sealant and unbolting it - it is not an access panel and is solid underneath.
You have two ways to attack it - from underneath, or remove the dash and top dashpad. I recommend going at it from underneath. Lots of other interesting things can break or come loose taking out the dash.
Good luck
If you are putting on a brand new, not remanufactured booster the mounting studs may be larger than the original too.
There is what looks like a cover or access panel in the firewall (in the windshield wiper trough) directly above where the booser goes in. Don't bother scraping off the old black sealant and unbolting it - it is not an access panel and is solid underneath.
You have two ways to attack it - from underneath, or remove the dash and top dashpad. I recommend going at it from underneath. Lots of other interesting things can break or come loose taking out the dash.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 96,209
Likes: 75
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '09
The top two nuts are tough to get to. It is slow going. Remove the drivers seat and it will give you a little more room to get under there and work on it. Use a deep socket, Gearwrench, Craftsman socket cap set, ratcheting thumbwheels, or a combination of the above, anything so you can get to the nut to turn it. It takes as long to get it put back on as it does to remove it. The clevis pin is a real PITA to get back in too. This was not one of GMs finest pieces of engineering - they must have had a trainee design this part of the car.
If you are putting on a brand new, not remanufactured booster the mounting studs may be larger than the original too.
There is what looks like a cover or access panel in the firewall (in the windshield wiper trough) directly above where the booser goes in. Don't bother scraping off the old black sealant and unbolting it - it is not an access panel and is solid underneath.
You have two ways to attack it - from underneath, or remove the dash and top dashpad. I recommend going at it from underneath. Lots of other interesting things can break or come loose taking out the dash.
Good luck
If you are putting on a brand new, not remanufactured booster the mounting studs may be larger than the original too.
There is what looks like a cover or access panel in the firewall (in the windshield wiper trough) directly above where the booser goes in. Don't bother scraping off the old black sealant and unbolting it - it is not an access panel and is solid underneath.
You have two ways to attack it - from underneath, or remove the dash and top dashpad. I recommend going at it from underneath. Lots of other interesting things can break or come loose taking out the dash.
Good luck
It's guys like you that make this forum tops......
I'll pass that along and post an update soon.......
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Find a 8 year old. The space was never made for big people. I used a different sized extensions and swivels. It's even worse when you have a neutral safety switch.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
You're welcome. I have gotten much more help and information from this forum than I will ever be able to give back.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 96,209
Likes: 75
From: Houston Texas
St. Jude Donor '09
My brother said to tell stock76 thanks for the tips.....
We owe you a cold beer bro......(at least one.....
)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
That's exactly what my brother ended up doing. He read your reply and removed the seat first. That gave him some more room to operate but it still took 5 hours...... He said that was one SOB to get to. Absolutely no room at all........A deep 9/16 swivel is the tool for that job
My brother said to tell stock76 thanks for the tips.....
We owe you a cold beer bro......(at least one..... )
My brother said to tell stock76 thanks for the tips.....
We owe you a cold beer bro......(at least one.....
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