Hello guys I have a Tech question for anyone that can help me out. I just recently bought a corvette off a private owner. It is in excellent shape was garage kept. It never seen snow or rain, but I'm having a stalling problem.

I have a 79 stingray V8 5.7L small block L-82 automatic. Now my problem is when I step down on it tromp it it starts to choke and stall out on me but after I reach 40+ mph i can tromp on it with out it stalling if I attempt to step it down at a stop it just chokes out and stalls on me

I had changed the fuel filter and just put new gas + carb and choke cleaner in the tank and even sprayed some of the carb cleaner spray stuff under the hood.

I got it off a private owner that didn't run the thing for 2-3 years or so

what do i need to do to stop that from happening ?

 

More of a guess than anything else here, but check the accelerator pump. Pull the lid off the air cleaner and work the throttle- you should see two steady streams of gas going into the primary venturis. They can get sticky from non-use sometimes.....

 

so wait you think the problem is within my carburetor?

 

If the car sat for 2-3 years I would begin by giving it a tune up. Points, plugs, rotor, distributor cap, wires, change oil, fuel and air filters. At least that way you have a starting point for all these items. Some may have been on the car for years.

 

Cap, rotor, wires and plugs should be ok if they don't have a lot of miles on them, check it out of course, but if they look ok then they should be. The accelerator pump is a good place to start looking, yes thats in the carb. Remove the air cleaner and hold the choke plate open and look into the throat of the carb and operate the throttle, as stated above you should get a squirt of gas as soon as you start tp move the throttle.
Make sure the choke is opening, once the engine is warmed up the choke plate should be completely open.

That will get you started anyways.

Nice car too, post some pics

 

okay I checked the a-pump and it squirts gas and opens up fine. I talked to the guy at advance auto and he said I should do all of the above check hoses before replacing ect. also he thinks my Idle is too high. It Idles @ 1000rpms in park/neutral and, 700rpms in drive. Also what should my timing be set up @ anyone know?

 

Not to be an *** but all the info on timing can be found as a sticky at the top of this page!
This has been stated time and time again.
I'm not raggin' on any individual, but if you guys buy these cars and have no knowledge as to how they work you will have to do some research on occassion.
And I don't want to be flamed here. I know there are others that feel the same way.

Now back to the topic at hand... First I try not to take advice from someone at a Autozone, Murrays or Advanced. Second your idle settings are in the ballpark.
You state that the accel pump squirts gas and opens up. What do you mean by "opens up"?

 

well a few ppl said something about the accel pump to check it see if the choke opens and if it squirts gas and it does I checked it a few times also drive it everyday only problem is my engine bogs out sputters and stalls on me if try to power block it

 

Is everything else associated with running cond. O.K.?(plugs wires cap ect.)

Not sure what you mean by "power block it".

 

well I'm not sure yet b/c i was gonna get the plugs/wires dist parts today but the guy at advance said to check to see if the stuffs fine first before i spend any money and I'm not really mechanically incline to know if it needs replaced i was just gonna buy the stuff and replace it so i know it works

What I mean by power block is i cant tromp it with out it stalling on me unless i'm going over 20 mph so like if i hold in the brake and push the pedal to the medal then it will stall on me

 

Hey Maxx;

OK, so you may not be a master mechanic, but there is no reason to **** away $$ for no reason.
A good set of plug wires will be $50 or more, test them before you just replace them. With it idling, remove 1 plug wire at a time from the plug and see if the idle changes. If it does, them your plug wires are probably ok, as are the cap and rotor.
Take the cap and rotor off and look at them. On the rotor, the tip that connects with the cap terminal will be burned if it is bad. Clean the whole thing with a clean rag and a bit of WD40.
Look in the rotor with some good light. Look for cracks, look for carbon tracks coming from the terminals inside. Clean it out with a clean rag and a bit of WD40
Now it gets interesting: Look at the timing advance mechanism in the distributor, thats the parts just below the rotor. There might be some rust. The springs may be dammaged, the holes for the bushings may be worn. Clean it up with the same can of WD40 and a clean rag. Be sure not to loose anything. Make sure the flyweights move freely.
Take a couple pics and post them.
Take a close look at all your vacuume hoses, make sure they are secure. With the engine idling, pull the hose off the vac advance unit on the distributor, does the idle change?

Don't just go slammin parts, you will end up with the same problems and less cash, plus be pissed

 

Good advice. Check out as much as you can on the existing parts to determine what is good/bad. If you're skittish about doing the work yourself, have a reputable mechanic perform the work for you. Good luck and keep the questions coming, we're here to help!