i posted a while back about a new cam and that i couldnt get it to start.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1779378

i took everthing apart. here is tdc and i got a new sprocket so i can see the timing marks. i have another crank gear on there so the timing mark shows better for the pic. but it still wont start. i loosened the valves to make sure they werent too tight but still nothing. the distributor points towards number one cylinder but i still get gas shooting back up through the carb.

 

With it set up like the pic shows that has the #1 at TDC, if you put the distributor in with the rotor pointed at the #1 plug wore on the dist cap, it should start if you have the fireing order set to 18436572

 

with the cam gear dot at 6 oclock and the crank gear at 12 oclock. that is top dead center for cylinder #6... pop your dist out and turn the rotor 180 deg to point at #6 cylinder on the cap. it will fire right up!

vc

 

with the timing marks lined up shouldnt number 1 cylinder be at TDC on the compression stroke...meaning that the distributor should be pointing at number 1 spark plug?

 

12 o'clock on both gears would be #1 TDC

 

NOPE

 

EXACTAMUNDO LOL

 

i flipped the distributor 180 and now it seems good
it almost fired up but not enough to run completely kinda sputters out after i release the key.

i think its just the valves now, i have a guy coming over to help me with that.

thanks for all the help, if you have any other suggestions i would appreciate it.

sean

 

Does it run better if you turn the distributor body all the way to one side?

 

Turn the distributor counterclockwise in small increments and see if it starts and stays running. Sounds like the timing is too retarded right now.

 

now try this, with the timing mark at 10* BTDC set the distributor at the #1 position

 

finally got it started, thanks for all the help. i broke in the cam just now but had some overheating problems and some coolant overflowed and burnt a hole in my overflow tank.

how was i supposed to keep from overheating without moving and breaking in the cam?

 

Congratulations.

You can help with the overheating by filling the coolant at the thermostat housing, making sure that it stays full, and by putting a fan facing the radiator.

 

 

With your gears installed like that, (BTW thats how most Vendors recomend). Just find TDC on the #1 piston, install your Dist. Correctly , point the rotor to #1 cyl, Maybe move the dist. counter clock wise a little to give it some advance, and it should fire right up, without Backfiring through the carb. Time it from there...New Performance heads and valve train usually turn the Headers red hot for a minute as it initially breaks in. Thats why the oil needs changing after the first 30min. breakin.

 

When I was adjusting my distributor to point to #1, I took an unused HEI distributor cap and cut a hole in it just below the terminal I was going to use for number 1. I rotated the front damper counterclockwise for the correct Before Top Dead Center advance and then adjusted the distributor so that the rotor was exactly under number 1. Then I replaced my "holed" cap with a new HEI distributor cap.

To cut the hole, I used a Dremel tool with a metal cut off disk. It worked perfect on the plastic. It basically just melted the cut lines into the plastic.

 

Dude, that's awesome!

#6 and #1 are companion cylinders; both are at TDC at the same time on opposite strokes (compression/exhaust) IMHO, I always take a minute to set it with reference to #1 - but #6 works as well if you don't want to turn it over.

The comment about 10 degrees advanced is right on - this really helps with starting; too many people try to start 'em set to 0 degrees.

The overheating is definitely a concern - did you add coolant during the startup? The engine will suck quite a bit of coolant as it fills; generally I recommend doing the initial fill with just water, and leaving the radiator cap off to allow you top it up right after startup.

So is everything going well now?

 

yeah i broke in the cam yesterday and it runs ok. the idle is rough but im taking it to get it timed and the valves checked today.

do i need to change the oil and filter now or can i drive it over to the shop?

 

Cool Rough idle could be a vacuum leak, but sounds like you're on the right track. You'd be fine to drive it over...but I always change the oil & filter right after break-in. I've cut a couple of post-break-in filters apart, and they're generally pretty nasty with gunk.

 

k ill change that oil befor anything.

im getting quite a bit of smoke coming out of the breather and its coming inside.

will this clear up after a while and what causes this?

thanks for answering all my questions.


sean