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Excessive Exhaust Smoke.

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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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Default Excessive Exhaust Smoke.

Is it normal for older high performance engines ('70 L46) to smoke excessively upon a cold start? Given the fact that these engines are carbureted and have little or no anti-pollution devices, I'd guess that excessive smoke is normal. Once the engine warms up, the smoke goes away. Anybody have any insight?

By excessive I mean you can see and smell the exhaust.
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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you need a head job ...

it's not hurting anything but needs to be addressed.

pull 'em and do valves, guides, etc.

Last edited by Avette4me; Aug 15, 2007 at 10:41 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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worn valve guides/seals
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 11:09 PM
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Default what color is the smoke?

White smoke-coolant in the system, blue smoke oil, black smoke fuel. let's you know which direction to look.
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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Assuming that the smoke is a bluish color, the valve guides or seals are bad on the car! When the engine is shut off, oil is running past the seals and in to the cylinders. This is a common problem with most C3 engines that have some years on them.

When you are starting up the engine the oil that passed through is burning off. Not an easy fix but something that can be tolerated until the car needs to be torn down.

I would keep a good eye on the oil consumption and then base my repair on this. Should the engine seem to consume mass quantities of oil, then I would consider pulling the heads and having them rebuilt. But. . . If the car is high mileage and you have the funds, instead of pulling the heads off I would consider a complete rebuild.

Willcox Inc.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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Everybody.........Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I knew it was a long shot, but I was hoping the smoke was normal.

My High School Auto Mechanics teacher (Mr. Richie) preached never do just a valve job. His logic was that parts wear in conjunction with each other. Therefore, if you fix the valve problem, you'll increase the compression and cause piston ring problems. Is there any truth to his logic?

To do the job correctly, the engine should be rebuilt. However, from a financial point of view, a valve job alone is much cheaper. Down the road, if I have just a valve job done, will I regret not spending the money on a complete rebuild?

Although I doubt it is accurate, the odometer reads 37K miles. Based upon the overall condition of the car, I highly doubt it has 137K miles on it. At what mileage point is it common for a C3 engine to need a valve job?

Wilcox Corvette...........Bought some weather stripping from you a few weeks ago. Excellent quality and fit!!!!

Last edited by Cosmo Kramer; Aug 16, 2007 at 09:16 AM.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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No, it is not normal.
I agree,check the color of the smoke.
I doubt if its water (white), that usually doesnt go away after warm, and doesnt smell like fuel ,nor oil.
A puff of blue smoke at start-up ( after sitting for a while),is almost always valve guides/seals. Larger the cloud and the longer it last, worse the problem.
Continuous blue smoke...get out your wallet for a complete rebuild.
Black smoke and /or smell at start-up. You shouldnt really be able to see any at all. The smell...well..its running rich cause its cold/ choke closed, ect.
I think you may have a combo of problems.None really bad except on the wallet and it CAN wait till winter.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Nope.you wont regret it. To do a full on rebuild, you have to pull the heads anyway.
Yes,at a 130K miles, that engine is getting a bit worn. Yes, the valves are usually the first indicator of rebuild time. Also, that timming chain is getting close to the " your gonna walk home tonight" stage. Heads off, timming chain off..great time to replace the cam.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 08:46 PM
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What if it's a new crate engine (GM Performance)? Mine has about 250 miles on it and it "blows blue-white smoke" when I first start it and it idles for a while. After running it (cruise etc), the smoke disappears for a while, then returns. Does she still need to be broke in?
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 11:37 PM
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I have nobody to be mad at, but myself. The seller assured me the odometer was accurate. He signed an odometer statement confirming the milage. Additionally, I paid an inspector $200. to check over the car (thankfully, all the numbers match) and confirm the odometer. Based upon his inspection, I understood the odometer to be correct. Bottom line: I paid way too much for the car. Live and learn, I guess.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 05-C6
I have nobody to be mad at, but myself. The seller assured me the odometer was accurate. ...... Bottom line: I paid way too much for the car. Live and learn, I guess.

Well...On with it!

1. What'd you pay for this car?

2. Can we see pics?

3. Welcome to the C3 forum


oh...C'mon, give yourself a break you bought a 38 year old car (matching numbers, chrome bumper Corvette). Of course it's going to burn a bit of color at start-up.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 01:48 AM
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It is very possible that the milage is accurate and have the problem with valve guide seals. The valve guide seals are rubber and over time from sitting they dry out and crack and have the smoke problem at startup. I think you need to check the motor out more as far as compression and such to see if all you need to to is change the seals. Seals can be changed without pulling the heads off. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by vetteguy75
What if it's a new crate engine (GM Performance)? Mine has about 250 miles on it and it "blows blue-white smoke" when I first start it and it idles for a while. After running it (cruise etc), the smoke disappears for a while, then returns. Does she still need to be broke in?
in this case, I think you have poor valve seals or/and worn valve guides. Sounds like the classic problem with the early Dodge mini-vans.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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woodlandcorvette.........Yea, I guess your right. It is possible for the rubber valve seals to be worn out due to age and not necessarily high mileage.

Here are a few of the seller's pictures:





I paid $32.5 for the car. Given the fact that the car is an un-restored numbers matching car with 37K miles (?) I thought the price was fair. Personally, I'd give the car a rating of CC = -2.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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My smoke on start up was valve seals The car sat for 16 yrs. As soon as you touched the seals they fell apart. It's an afternoon job and the least expensive. No more smoke.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Artsvette73
My smoke on start up was valve seals The car sat for 16 yrs. As soon as you touched the seals they fell apart. It's an afternoon job and the least expensive. No more smoke.
A set of valve cover gaskets, new seals( which are very cheap) and your good to go. They are easy to change and doesnt take that long. Do NOT over tighten the valve cover bolts.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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Artsvette73.........Okay, I'll try your suggestion. Where did you buy the valve seals?
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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Nice car, Nice color! If the mileage is correct and it hasn't been apart I would expect the valve seals to need to be replaced. The rubber breaks down with exposure to heat, oil and aging. No big deal. If the mileage is correct you bought the car at a fair price for a #s matching 4 speed 4.11 car.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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If you have never been inside valve covers before, you may want someone next to you that has.
Valve seals look like a cross between an umbrella and a bell mushroom. Made of rubber,of course. Look in a manual to see if you think you can do this work yourself.Its fairly simple and straight forward, but you do need a few special tools.You will also have to readjust the valves after doing this. The seal slips over the end of the valve stem. The end where the spring meets the rocker. Use caution not to drop the valve into the cylinder,there are several methods of doing that. With all that said, this isnt major brain surgery.
Seals can be purchased at almost any parts store,including your local chevy dealer. be sure to get the right year parts for the engine,as there are two different types of material used for seals, of which one may not last long in your application.
I really am saying this to others who may be in the same boat,but have little or no history of turning wrenches. Best of luck.
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Old Aug 18, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 05-C6
Artsvette73.........Okay, I'll try your suggestion. Where did you buy the valve seals?
Any autoparts store should have them
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