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Need Rear End Help!!!

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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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From: Lewisville Texas
Default Need Rear End Help!!!

I've mentioned it before in an earlier thread... but I just purchased a VB&P rear dual mount composite monospring (42600) and the poly smart strut (52000HD). I started tearing down the rear end last night. So far I've removed the spring and both shocks but for the life of me I cannot get the old struts off the shock mounts. I sprayed them down with wd-40 and let them soak but they still didn't budge. I still have the other end of the strut attached to the mounting bracket, and the trailing arms are just hanging. Do I need to raise the TA's and/or take the strut off the center mounting bracket???? Am I missing something???? Is there a trick to it????

Another quick question: I haven't really looked at it but I'll ask now, how do you get the crossmember off so that I can mount my dual mount spring brackets????

I don't have any pics with me but I will post some this evening when I get home from work.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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From: Marietta GA
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Are you having trouble removing the shock mounts from the trailing arms?
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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I can't get the shock mounts off anything. I had to beat the shock off the mount with a 3# sledge!!! I tried hitting the mount thru the strut and trailing arm brackets but it wouldn't budge.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 01:17 PM
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The shock mounts rust weld into the hub carriers, requiring PB Blaster (way better than wd40), Heat and judicious hammering. There is a tool to screw onto the threaded end of the shock mount to protect the threads while you hammer it out of the carrier. If that fails, you will need to cut the strut off the mount, peel off the rubber and then use a chicel to peel the inner sleeve for the strut rod bushing off the shock mount. The mount is keyed and only goes in 1 way. Use lots of PB Blaster.
What year car do you have? If you have the iron diff, pull the big bolts from the ends of the crossmember and get a Big prybar, insert it between the frame and crossmember at the end from the outside and lift the car off the blocks with it, wear a truss. When the thing come off it does it all at once BANG! Be carefull, you can knock the car off the jackstands.
If you have the aluminum batwing under there, remove the bolts in the ends and use the prybar to push the batwing down out of the mounts, this is a lot easier
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 01:26 PM
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From: Lewisville Texas
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
What year car do you have? If you have the iron diff, pull the big bolts from the ends of the crossmember and get a Big prybar, insert it between the frame and crossmember at the end from the outside and lift the car off the blocks with it, wear a truss. When the thing come off it does it all at once BANG! Be carefull, you can knock the car off the jackstands.
It's a 77'. Thanks for the help on the struts and shock mounts. But I'm not sure I'm following what you are saying about the rear x-member.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 03:29 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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During installation of the camber strut bracket, you may note that the mounting holes are a bit larger than the bolts that attach it to the diff. (VB&P has recently been made aware of this issue.) If you are concerned about the possibility of it shifting around, may I suggest some bushings...
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