Cold Starting Problem


The rust is from dipping everything in the conditioner during the rebuild, but appears superficial. I've moved the vacuum line that goes to the choke actuator from the bottom front port to the upper front port, because it seemed to make the car idle better. It doesn't affect this problem from what I can tell.
Here's a video of a cold start without touching the throttle. This was after I'd started it once earlier, so I didn't have to pump the throttle to get it to start, at least. Normally I do if it's been sitting overnight: VIDEO
Ideas?
-=Boston!=-
Damn cap lock!!!
In the pic is the Eng cold? you stated that you had it running earlier in the day.
You will always have to depress the gas pedal to re-set the choke, and allow the accelerator pump give it a shot of fuel.
I don't think you are far off. Just an adjustment of the choke and choke pull off. And look in the carb with the throttle plate open and see if you are getting a shot down the carb when throttle is depressed.
Good Luck!
-=Boston!=-




this is my 68 327 right after i got to work this AM


the first thing I notice is your choke stove is missing the littel snap lock, whick fixes the position of the rod on the choke lever, with out this, you rod can move independantly form teh choke. second thing is that the bending is exxcessive, and seems to be turned 90 degrees from mine, but that is doe to the different manifolds
hmmm
also looks like the pin that sets the fast Idle cam on your secondairies is bent too
hmmmm
in looking at your video, I wouls hazard to say the divorced choke is at the root cause of your troubles, are you sure its the right one for your intake?
hmmmmm
Last edited by sweethence; Aug 17, 2007 at 08:25 AM.





