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As mentioned above, pull the seat. You will be very glad you had a long flat surface of the cabin floor to lay on upside down with your head under the dash. That being said, I found a small throw pillow or a folded up towel worked very well to keep my head comfortable and my neck supported.
Comfort is key here so you don't lose patience and throw something.
Dissconnect the master from the booster but you can leave the lines attached to the master. Remove the vacuum line and then move inside.
You'll have a fun time removing the clip that holds the pedal rod pin in the pedal arm. I managed to get it off with a flathead screw driver but sometimes needle nose pliers will make short work of it.
Have an assortment of tools ready. You'll want a deep wall socket, wobble if you have one, or a spring loaded joint will work too. Have lots of extensions ready or one really long one.
Then the ratchet. Once you get all four nuts out, the booster is ready to be pried away from the firewall.
Are you replacing it because it's bad or upgrading to something else? If you're taking it out why not upgrade to hydraulic power brakes that run off of your power steering system?
And it ain't removing the clip that holds the pedal rod pin in the pedal arm that's a pain (if you use needle-nose pliers) - it's getting it back on!
And to that I would like to add that if you get that clip off and the pin out...when you reinstall the clevis you should install a pin with a cotter pin instead of the stock one.