Removing Brake Booster
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Tustin California
Removing Brake Booster
I finally have pulled the engine out..... The first strain of the "while you are at it" disease has begun. The leaky power brake booster.
Any special tools or recommendations on removal other than lots of u-joints and a pillow?
Any special tools or recommendations on removal other than lots of u-joints and a pillow?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
As mentioned above, pull the seat. You will be very glad you had a long flat surface of the cabin floor to lay on upside down with your head under the dash. That being said, I found a small throw pillow or a folded up towel worked very well to keep my head comfortable and my neck supported.
Comfort is key here so you don't lose patience and throw something.
Dissconnect the master from the booster but you can leave the lines attached to the master. Remove the vacuum line and then move inside.
You'll have a fun time removing the clip that holds the pedal rod pin in the pedal arm. I managed to get it off with a flathead screw driver but sometimes needle nose pliers will make short work of it.
Have an assortment of tools ready. You'll want a deep wall socket, wobble if you have one, or a spring loaded joint will work too. Have lots of extensions ready or one really long one.
Then the ratchet. Once you get all four nuts out, the booster is ready to be pried away from the firewall.
Are you replacing it because it's bad or upgrading to something else? If you're taking it out why not upgrade to hydraulic power brakes that run off of your power steering system?
Comfort is key here so you don't lose patience and throw something.
Dissconnect the master from the booster but you can leave the lines attached to the master. Remove the vacuum line and then move inside.
You'll have a fun time removing the clip that holds the pedal rod pin in the pedal arm. I managed to get it off with a flathead screw driver but sometimes needle nose pliers will make short work of it.
Have an assortment of tools ready. You'll want a deep wall socket, wobble if you have one, or a spring loaded joint will work too. Have lots of extensions ready or one really long one.
Then the ratchet. Once you get all four nuts out, the booster is ready to be pried away from the firewall.
Are you replacing it because it's bad or upgrading to something else? If you're taking it out why not upgrade to hydraulic power brakes that run off of your power steering system?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 12
From: SoCal
(I use one with a swivel handle).And it ain't removing the clip that holds the pedal rod pin in the pedal arm that's a pain (if you use needle-nose pliers) - it's getting it back on!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
And to that I would like to add that if you get that clip off and the pin out...when you reinstall the clevis you should install a pin with a cotter pin instead of the stock one.
Several vendors sell the updated easy pin.
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