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You can put some xenon lights in it. I personally don't like the bluish light they put out and a picky law enforcement type may latch onto them as well. They work pretty good though.
I installed a couple of 55W driving lights behind my grill for the same reason. My main issue was seeing when turning although my night vision has declined over the years. The lights have really helped light things up.
Isn't it a sealed casing? I have plug and play HID's on my other cars and they work great, they are 4300K temp so they emit no blue tint what so ever, its pure white. I thought HID's would not be able to plug and play into a C3?
Originally Posted by weimer20
You can put some xenon lights in it. I personally don't like the bluish light they put out and a picky law enforcement type may latch onto them as well. They work pretty good though.
From: Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of the women TX
Originally Posted by 76REDVETTE
Isn't it a sealed casing? I have plug and play HID's on my other cars and they work great, they are 4300K temp so they emit no blue tint what so ever, its pure white. I thought HID's would not be able to plug and play into a C3?
Actual HID lights with transformers and ballasts and such only pull like 35 watts. Of course you would have to get aftermarket housings/reflectors to plug the bulbs into. Of course the round corvette reflectors are available just about anywhere.
On my '99 trans am with the sealed beams with very off the wall proportions, where you just couldn't seem to find aftermarket reflectors, I bastardized some HIR lights into sealed beam Sylvania housings. Ramped up the melted plastic driving light housings with their 26.5watt bulbs into metal housings running 55 (or was it 65) watt zenon bulbs.
They claim there is a lot of voltage drop over the stock harness and sell an upgraded harness for $200. I haven't taken a good look at the lighting or harness yet, but I am replacing bulbs with LEDs where feasible to ease the stress on what is actually a pretty primitive electrical system.
I do a lot of night driving on backroads; fast and dark. When I get to the lights on the list..... well, I like the option of seeing way down the road. Leaves on trees wilting..... small animals bursting into flame..... the paint on the bumper of the guy that cut me off slowly bubbling....
Go check out the article on MadElectric site, then start looking at the options. The existing wireing has issues, fix that first, then see if more improvement is needed
For the time being this is my lighting upgrade. They are not sealed and you can use newer bulbs either halogen or blue.
I also wired up the halos you see as failing light accents to only be used at dusk before the headlights are switched on.
I also gave them dedicated power from my equivalent of the alt's BAT terminal switched by a relay that's triggered by the original headlight power wire.
It's all only temporary until I get my body work going and install the fixed headlights.
For the time being this is my lighting upgrade. They are not sealed and you can use newer bulbs either halogen or blue.
I also wired up the halos you see as failing light accents to only be used at dusk before the headlights are switched on.
I also gave them dedicated power from my equivalent of the alt's BAT terminal switched by a relay that's triggered by the original headlight power wire.
It's all only temporary until I get my body work going and install the fixed headlights.
Incandescent bulbs don't age well. Replace with some version of a modern halogen bulb (cheapo sealed-beams, aftermarket H4/H1 units, etc.). If pure originality isn't a concern, install relays.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
For the time being this is my lighting upgrade. They are not sealed and you can use newer bulbs either halogen or blue.
I also wired up the halos you see as failing light accents to only be used at dusk before the headlights are switched on.
I also gave them dedicated power from my equivalent of the alt's BAT terminal switched by a relay that's triggered by the original headlight power wire.
It's all only temporary until I get my body work going and install the fixed headlights.
I will second the suggestion to read through the MAD site. I simply rewired my headlights as they suggest and it made a world of difference. Check to see what kind voltage you get at the headlights with the engine running. If it's below 13.5V, improving your wiring will probably do what you need.
From: Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of the women TX
Originally Posted by bb69
I will second the suggestion to read through the MAD site. I simply rewired my headlights as they suggest and it made a world of difference. Check to see what kind voltage you get at the headlights with the engine running. If it's below 13.5V, improving your wiring will probably do what you need.
Ken
I'm not putting a meter on the headlights, I already know they're anemic.
I can go to really low beams just rolling the window up.
So for upgrading and rewiring, who makes the best most accurate wiring diagrams?