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134 Freon Question

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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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Default 134 Freon Question

Anyone know how much 134 freon should go into a 1970 vette. I know that it calls for 4 lbs. of the original R-12. However a tech guy at a vendor that I bought some of my new A.C. parts from said 2 and a half lbs. is all that should go in when its been converted to 134. Seems a little low to me. The reason I feel its not enough, is With those 2.5 lbs. I had the A.C. shop put in there, air temp coming out of registers is 69 degrees, and this is LONG before the engine reaches normal operating temp., so its not the notorious "engine heat transfer" these things are prone to. All parts are brand new and or re-bulds freshly put on, and there are NO freeze up points at any of the systems parts.POA valve and evaporater tub does get cold so there is a flow of freon through the system. Hoping that another pound of 134 will do the trick. HELP!!!! getting late in the A.C. season now. would like to know that it is working correctly befor the fall. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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Thats probably close to right maybe a little low still. What are your low and high side pressures? Are you getting the 69 degree temps at idle or cruising speed? If you are getting these temps a idle and using the standard engine driven fan that is probably the coolest temp you will get. The R-134 conversion runs at much higher operating temps and you need to move more air across the condensor. Try measuring your register temps with your garden hose cooling the condensor and let us know if they come down
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wnmech
Thats probably close to right maybe a little low still. What are your low and high side pressures? Are you getting the 69 degree temps at idle or cruising speed? If you are getting these temps a idle and using the standard engine driven fan that is probably the coolest temp you will get. The R-134 conversion runs at much higher operating temps and you need to move more air across the condensor. Try measuring your register temps with your garden hose cooling the condensor and let us know if they come down
This is the temp at Idle, But can't be much lower if at all while driving. Anyway, will try to cool the condeser with hose tomwrrow. If it cools the temp. down inside the car, what does that tell us??????????
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 10:23 PM
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Tells you the system is working, but you need to get the condenser colder... you may want to look into getting an electric helper fan for when the a/c is on.
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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The rule of thumb is when you have the correct amount of freon in a system, both the inlet and outlet tubes of the evaporator will be the same temperature. On R-12 to R-134 conversions that I do, we routinely see outlet duct temps in the high 30* range.
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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Squirrelguy when you check out your system tomorrow let us know what your high and low side pressures are and also what is the outside temp. Chsck these presures before you cool down the condensor because when you drop the temp on your condensor it will also drop your pressures. Like green73 said you may have to go with an electric fan. You may also find out that the R-134 refrigerant might not work for your car and have to go to another alternative refrigerant or bite the bullet and go back with R-12 providing you have no leaks in the system. Older cars just dont like the R-134
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by big_G
The rule of thumb is when you have the correct amount of freon in a system, both the inlet and outlet tubes of the evaporator will be the same temperature. On R-12 to R-134 conversions that I do, we routinely see outlet duct temps in the high 30* range.
will also check these temps tomorrow. thanks.
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wnmech
Squirrelguy when you check out your system tomorrow let us know what your high and low side pressures are and also what is the outside temp. Chsck these presures before you cool down the condensor because when you drop the temp on your condensor it will also drop your pressures. Like green73 said you may have to go with an electric fan. You may also find out that the R-134 refrigerant might not work for your car and have to go to another alternative refrigerant or bite the bullet and go back with R-12 providing you have no leaks in the system. Older cars just dont like the R-134
I don't have the equiptment to check the pressures. i can tell you that the outside temp today was in the mid 90's and pretty humid here in Pa. Sure hope I can continue with the 134 though. R12 is very hard to find and very expensive if you can as I'm sure you know.
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Old Aug 25, 2007 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Green73
Tells you the system is working, but you need to get the condenser colder... you may want to look into getting an electric helper fan for when the a/c is on.
Thanks, will look into a helper fan if one more pound of freon will not do the job.
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 04:20 AM
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I just rebuilt my A/C in the '71 and converted it to R134. The rule of thumb here is to charge it with R134 upto its 75% of what its supposed to be charged with R12, thats because R134 runs in a higher pressure than R12. In my case, I just charged with R134 till I got a low pressure reading of 50 and high of 260, at that point I could feel the vent air is cool and nice. I could go for more, as I have been told that with R134 I can go upto 280 on high side, but I'd rather be safe than to have a cooler temp.

BTW, did you change the oil to a R134 compatible one? I didnt when I put R134 and my compressor almost siezed! You need to flush the whole thing very well to remove any sign of the meniral oil and then put a R134 compatible along with a suitable O rings before charging it with R134.
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by HamadUP
I just rebuilt my A/C in the '71 and converted it to R134. The rule of thumb here is to charge it with R134 upto its 75% of what its supposed to be charged with R12, thats because R134 runs in a higher pressure than R12. In my case, I just charged with R134 till I got a low pressure reading of 50 and high of 260, at that point I could feel the vent air is cool and nice. I could go for more, as I have been told that with R134 I can go upto 280 on high side, but I'd rather be safe than to have a cooler temp.

BTW, did you change the oil to a R134 compatible one? I didnt when I put R134 and my compressor almost siezed! You need to flush the whole thing very well to remove any sign of the meniral oil and then put a R134 compatible along with a suitable O rings before charging it with R134.
All PARTS are new or rebuilt. No need for flush.
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by squirrelguy
All PARTS are new or rebuilt. No need for flush.
oh! I didnt know that, sorry!

I think the best practice is to watch the pressure readings, fill to the proper pressure reading and thats it. At least that worked well for me.
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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After a pipe fracture I refilled the R12 system on my 1980 with R413 at 80% of normal capacity ,it works great no probs so far.

ps high side pressure is 95psi
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 08:36 AM
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You really need to put a gauge on the system. If you add more freon thinking you are still low will also mess up your cooling and possible cause a line to blow
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by big_G
The rule of thumb is when you have the correct amount of freon in a system, both the inlet and outlet tubes of the evaporator will be the same temperature. On R-12 to R-134 conversions that I do, we routinely see outlet duct temps in the high 30* range.
Are these on Corvettes or on other cars?
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 10:58 AM
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Another way to know how much you need is to have a high pressure side equals to 2.2 - 2.5 times your ambient temp. i.e. if you are in a 100F ambient, then the high side shoul be between 220-250 psi.
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 79vetter
Are these on Corvettes or on other cars?
All Corvettes
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To 134 Freon Question

Old Aug 26, 2007 | 03:11 PM
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O.K.guys, Took a major step back today. The less than 30 day old re-manufactured compressor, just seized up!!!!! About to just rip the whole thing out and cut my losses. I'm sure I can get a refund on the compreesor, however I just ate the$189.95 it cost me to have the system evacuated,charged and filled with dye for a leak check. Dam, just shoot me now!
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by squirrelguy
O.K.guys, Took a major step back today. The less than 30 day old re-manufactured compressor, just seized up!!!!! About to just rip the whole thing out and cut my losses. I'm sure I can get a refund on the compreesor, however I just ate the$189.95 it cost me to have the system evacuated,charged and filled with dye for a leak check. Dam, just shoot me now!
Squirrelguy, where in PA are you...i have a shop in Paradise, east of Lancaster. if you wanna come by, bring the new compressor, we'll hook up my gauges...where did you get Compressor from?? pep boys or napa? did you get new or reman....NEVER buy reman, there is a reason reputable Compressor manufacturers do not sell reman
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Old Aug 26, 2007 | 04:28 PM
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Sorry to hear about your compressor. Prior to all the work you had done was the system operating or was there a problem that required the complete overhaul? The reason I am asking is if the mechanic that did all the work failed to flush out your system properly and some trash or metal from the system was not flushed out properly you may have a reason to go back to the shop that did the work and maybe they will make good on the recharging of the system
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