Filtration is allways a issue !!! I rembember reading in linfelter"s book he said ( no true racer would ever run a engine knowing the oil was being bypassed from the filter)

 

I only know of the main 2 for small blocks. Moroso and Mr Gasket sell some too...might check and see what they say theirs are set for on max.

You can use a stock spring with some shims behind it to kick it up. Maybe .100" or so.

That oil pressure *curve* sure looks like a HV pump's output. Must be a heck of a tight bottom end! And that's good!

JIM

 

Very tight bottom end, nice build
Have you confirmed these readings with another gauge? just curious, maybe your gauge calibration is off eventhough it goes up and down as RPM does.

Not to side track, but do you know the size of the oil fitting on the block? is it 1/4? 1/2?
And then what is the oil gauge fitting size? 1/8?
Mine has an adapter that screws into the block right above the oil filter and then the gauge fitting screws into the adapter.

 

I have a modified 435 BB (L89) in my 67.
I run a Melling HV-77 High Volume Oil Pump that I installed in it 30 years ago. Bottom end has never been touched and block never been bored and my oil pressure is excellent....

I run Delo 400 Diesel 15w-40 in it and I have 80lbs oil pressure then 70 after it warms up. It loves it.

I also have a external oil cooler plumbed into the system which drops the oil temp considerably,its great! I like the extra pressure and volume in conjunction with the oil cooler lines that run to and from the front of the radiator.

 

I've never had this many compliments on my tight bottom end before :o


68 NJConv 454, I don't remember the size at all. It's been almost a year since I worked on it. Sorry.

 

Send me that highrise trypower, every time I see it I start drooling.

 

i wear a bib when i'm on the forum for that very reason.

 

I have put the Z28 pump in all my small blocks for years, including my current 406ci. Never seen the oil pressure pegged at 80 psi, even when cold. When warm, 40psi at idle and 60 to maybe 70 at WOT

 

Mouse, The high rise intake is completely polished and smooth, it looks like chrome and I have 1/2" polished aluminum spacers under each of the three 2-bbl Holleys. so they sit higher than stock...can just get the hood closed. The middle carb is a 4412 500cfm Holley with electric chocke, (I had to replace the factory center after I installed the stout solid cam that is in it - more cfm) all carb parts chromed and all screws and bolts are replaced with chrome Allen head hardware throughout the entire engine...I remember how much "fun" I had re-assembling these

 

Thats interesting to know I remember reading yrs ago about installing a 500 cfm center carb. The new barry grant stuff just does not do it for me, theres just something about the angled vacuum canisters and
the thin triangle air cleaner to show it all off that trips my trigger.
without the angled vacuum canisters the barry grant stuff just does
not look as good to me.

 

Desi,

Next oil change, pop some 5w30 in it. This should provide a slight decrease in oil pressure with no ill effects.

I would have suggested a high volume pump versus the high pressure pump. I believe it would have worked much better in your situation. The increased flow would provide the proper lubrication and should have raised the pressure up to proper levels. If you flow enough oil that it cannot squeeze out of the clearances, this will create pressure. Right now you are just creating pressure with minimal flow increase.

Mike

 

In the days when I first bought my car (1967) everyone ripped off the tri power setups and replaced them with 4bbls, because as you and I know they were a PIA with leaks and no reliable operation of those weak vacuum secondaries, which really are a joke. I have converted mine to progressive linkage so that the 2 outers actually do work....I was literally tripping over these Tripower setups at parts houses and swap meets.....no more now big $$$$$$...I agree the the BG tri power setup looks way to modern for a 40 yr old BB vette....

 

I ran a 69 435 trypower for about 18 months I can't remember
having any trouble with the secondaries not opening, but they
were said to work better for performance with progressive linkage
but I never did try it. I paid $85.00 dollars for the complete setup
it was not on a car when I bought it, so I spent about $20.00
for three carb rebuild kits. 18 months later when I got rid of the
73 I put the engine all back to stock with the stock parts I had kept
even the exhaust manifolds, I then sold the trypower for $125.00
this was late in 1974 maybe early 75.

 

I have the exact same readings in my 1980

 

been running a high vol unit for 5 years and the pressure is like MotorHead's.

 

The bold part of that statement is exactly correct. But the second part seems misleading somewhat.

Pressure is pressure.....if you have 60psi with a stock pump and 60 psi with a HV pump...you have the same amount of flow through the bearings. Nothing in engine has changed to allow more oil flow. If you increase pressure....regardless of the pump design..flow will increase. Again, pressure is pressure.

Oil pumps are very simple devices. They are designed to supply a certain volume of oil at a certain pressure. The stock pump is capable of exceeding the requirements of a normal clearanced engine. Throw a HP spring in it and the fact is proven. It just keeps building more pressure as rpm climbs. They are RPM driven....at *X* rpm...say idle...they will move *Y* amount of oil. If the clearances are *normal* then you will end up with the *normal* oil pressure. If they are loose it will be lower..tighter..it will be higher. Real simple design.

As RPM climbs...the pressure builds because it's trying to move more oil than the engine is *hemmoraging* inside. Of course as RPM climbs...more oil is thrown out of everything....but the stock pump can still *outrun* the leak...and proves it again since oil pressure is rising.

If you want insurance as RPM climbs you use a bigger spring in stock pump and build more pressure.

The HV pumps...are approx 25% or so larger. They just are able to pump more oil for a given RPM. And since that's the case...they outrun the leaks at a lower rpm and hence hold more oil pressure at low speeds. Nothing else has changed in the engine to require more oil flow..so you just get more pressure. As RPM climbs...they just keep outrunning the leaks and are able to build more pressure than the stock pump at the same RPM throughout the range.

If you put a 70 psi spring in a stock pump..you will only get a max of 70 psi at *X* RPM. If you put a 70 psi spring in a HV pump..you will still only get 70 psi at the max....but at lower rpms. Where the stock pump may be supplying 40 psi of pressure at a certain RPM..the HV may have 60 psi at same RPM.

I run a lot of solid roller stuff with EDM oiling to axles and us Lunatic Hardcore Fringe folks have a tough time keeping lifters alive. I like the added oil pressure/flow at low rpms to keep the lifters well oiled.

JIM

 

True enough.

 

 

Jim has it.

 

Here is the shade tree method: Add a Holley Carburetor jet to the oil pump pressure spring. You pop out the roll pin, remove the spring and insert the jet so the spring rides on the small diameter of the jet. It is the perfect size for the job. Easy way to build the high pressure oil pump.

I know the spring is only $3 or so but some times you might not have one handy.

-Mark.