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Where can I buy Spicer Solid (no grease fittings) u-joints for my '80 shark. I need them for the driveshaft and both half shafts. Please recommend any websites with a solid reputation. Are these better than u-joints with the grease fittings?
Ft. Wayne is supposed to be cool about it, BUT, apparently there has been a recent change by Spicer, and so the grease cup seals, that rubber on the ends of the bearing caps....SPLITS and cracks....
inferior quality....so be aware....
IMO, I been using Brute Force for a long time now...275/50/17 rubber but I don't drag race....been fine for me for some ten years + now...
got mine from summit, they listed them as Strange Engineering but upon arrival they were in spicer boxes with a Strange Engineering sticker on it. good luck with whatever you decide.
Yes but you have to change the pinion on the diff and go to a Mark Williams slip yoke. You will also have to buy a new driveshaft b/c the 1350 pinion yoke is 1" longer than stock and your stock shaft won't fit.
I'm confused. I said that 1350's would work for a driveshaft but you need to mod or buy a new shaft. 1350's are in stock 1/2 shafts from 63-96 except 80-81 auto. Stock driveshafts from 71-79 use 1330 u-joints.
Ft. Wayne is supposed to be cool about it, BUT, apparently there has been a recent change by Spicer, and so the grease cup seals, that rubber on the ends of the bearing caps....SPLITS and cracks....
inferior quality....so be aware....
to my surprise today when I was swapping out my newly bought (August) 3" half shafts from Fort Wayne Clutch trying to figure out where a new 80+mph driveline vibration was coming from I found my Spicer's plastic seals had cracked right off after only 500 miles.
to my surprise today when I was swapping out my newly bought (August) 3" half shafts from Fort Wayne Clutch trying to figure out where a new 80+mph driveline vibration was coming from I found my Spicer's plastic seals had cracked right off after only 500 miles.
This change is not recent. They have been that way for about 2 yrs now. Neapco joints are another good alternative.
I checked them all for cracks as when they arrived in the box from Fort Wayne Clutch 1 of them had the cracked ring. So I honestly carefully inspected them all and did not find any other cracks. I would understand maybe me missing 1 cracked ring, but 2 I find very hard to believe. I might get them replaced with some of the other recommendations you guys have posted as this is getting old replacing stuff that was just recently installed.
2armor
Greaseable joints have a hollow channel that runs to each cap of the joints. By being hollow it's weaker. Solid joints are just that. Solid all the way through. Solid joints are stronger and handle more toque. It's tuff to put HP ratings on parts, especially u-joints. I would say greaseable joints are good to about 350hp. Anthing over that I would go w/solids. Plus with solid joints, you don't have to maintain them and they don't sling grease everywhere. For the extra couple bucks it's worth it in my opinion.
I think you'll be fine with the greaseable joints you put in your driveshaft. Most of the time the 1/2 shafts go before the driveshaft.
Just checked at NAPA and they told me they have Neapco performance U joints which are non greaseable. It says NAPA on the box but their tech rep insists they are made by Neapco. Would anybody know if these are the same as the Brute Force? Is Brute Force made by Neapco?
2armor
Greaseable joints have a hollow channel that runs to each cap of the joints. By being hollow it's weaker. Solid joints are just that. Solid all the way through. Solid joints are stronger and handle more toque. It's tuff to put HP ratings on parts, especially u-joints. I would say greaseable joints are good to about 350hp. Anthing over that I would go w/solids. Plus with solid joints, you don't have to maintain them and they don't sling grease everywhere. For the extra couple bucks it's worth it in my opinion.
I think you'll be fine with the greaseable joints you put in your driveshaft. Most of the time the 1/2 shafts go before the driveshaft.
THANKS! Thats kinda what I figured. I did think the grease zerk types would be rated higher though. I haven't bought the 1/2 shaft ones yet but will when I replace the rear spring. I'll keep this info in mind then.