Earlier this summer when I started driving my car my voltage gauge was reading high. I tested the voltage with a multimeter at the battery and the alternator. Both agreed that it was at 15 volts running. I took the pair to the parts store to have them tested. They both tested within operating range, albeit on the high side. When I reinstalled them I cleaned up the contacts and terminals, added the corrosion washers to the batter and added a heavy ground cable from the ground post on the alternator to the frame.

The car proceeded to sit in the garage for the next 8 weeks with little attention. Now the battery has drained. I charged it and it was gone in a couple days. I charged it up again and started it the other day. After I shut it off I realized the headlight/interior light switch was acting kind of funny. I wiggled it a bit and went on my way. After a week I started the car again on Saturday and let it run in the garage for a bit.

I just went to start it again to turn it around and *click click click*. It's on the charger again right now, but I don't even know where to look for the drain. I'd appreciate any help.

 

The 15V output killed your battery.

The regulator in the alternator is probably bad. Also, do you have the proper bulb in the Gen light socket for the excite wire?

 

I suspected the voltage was too high. But I figured that when the parts guys kept telling me not to waste my money buying a new one, I figured they were right. I know which guys to talk to and which to avoid at the local parts store. I assumed it was the regulator from the start, which is why I had it tested.

Which bulb is supposed to be in the Gen light socket? I can change it with the gauges in place.

However, I think I found my actual culprit. I tightened the battery connections. I don't know how, but they weren't snug. I was able to get 1 more full turn out of the positive connection with little effort. Once I did that the interior lights brightened and the blower motor started running faster.

Can a poor battery connection drain the battery?

 

Yes. A slightly loose terminal may cause a drain.

 

Nope, doesn't cause a drain - but it can mean that the battery won't charge as well.

 

Yep. Loose connection will not drain a battery, but depending on where it is it can interfere with charging. So what does the alternator read now? I am not sure what the light bulb type will do the chargeing, but it might affect it. The bulb limits current to the field in the alternator.
Most likely you were on the right track with the "acting funny" interior light. You could have more than one issue. Put the battery on a charger and then do the voltage test. Then see if there really is a drain. Do a search, Roger has a good how-to for tracking it down

 

Last year the car had no electrical problems. When I fired it up at the beginning of this summer the voltage was higher with no real reason or adverse effects. I tested the voltage with a meter at the battery and the alternator. Since re-installing both components after testing at the parts store, the car has not been run long enough to charge the system. I have relied on the charger for the last three charges. The charger was hooked up for about 10 minutes until I realized the positive terminal wasn't fully tightened. At that point the battery had plenty of juice to start the car right up.

 

That may be what I was interpreting as a drain then because I had a similar situation in my blue Vette. The terminal for the neg cable never had a great connection and would always drain down after parked for a few days.

After I changed the cable the draining stopped and the battery lasted me another few years.

I always thought it was the fast on off on off connection that was draining it.

 

I would disconnect the battery from the car, record the battery voltage, and charge the battery by itself overnight @ 5amp/hr. This will give you a starting point to troubleshoot.
-full charge, check battery voltage;
-start car, check alternator output, check battery voltage;
-drive car, monitor amperage;
-stop car, check battery voltage
next day, check battery voltage

In all likelihood the loose battery connection prevented a full charge on your battery, the best way to recharge is charger overnight (may take longer depending on status of the battery)

 

Had my battery tested today, it was bad so I picked up a new one. Hooked it up and I got the same damn click.click.click...... Now I know I have a short somewhere. I decided to unhook the battery for the night to protect it. As I was unhooking it I decided to try it without the stereo power wire connected and it started right up. Well, at least I know exactly which wire has the short.

 

I don't think it's a short. I think either the power cable or the ground cable coming off the battery has a bad connection or is internally corroded giving you this problem.

Trace both, and test both. In a recent thread a guy had the same problem and ended up replacing the ground cable which was all white and crusty inside.

 

 

If the stereo wire had a short, you would have a fire. It's just wired up incorrectly.

 

I would be checking out the system with a voltmeter.

 

If your stereo wire is connected at the battery terminal then maybe that stereo connection at the battery is keeping the battery cable from making a good connection to the battery.

 

As far as the high voltage goes, check the car's gauge against a hand held volt meter and see if they read the same. The car's gauge may be off slightly.