Does anyone know if Delta Current Controls is still in business? Their website is no longer up and the contact number I have for them (Brian Baskin), (408) 379 - 8951 is "no longer in service".

Thanks

 

He may have had to shut down to catch up. he does this by himself and has a real day job too I think. He may have to get all his orders finished before he begins taking new ones. Keep trying that website every few weeks or so.

 

I really don't know the provenance of the man's product...but I remember NOW the pissing contest he and I got into here about his suggested wiring, and his crappy attitude....could not recall the name, but think I may jot it down now....anyway.. he was dead wrong in his wiring suggestions, claiming wire it direct off the battery...for several reasons....not to get into tech crap now as to why, just was....

but not to say his controllers may have worked fine....I know of a guy who has one wired MY way, direct off the alternator, but have not asked how the performance is....

I use a nice heavy 30 amp relay off the alt direct to the Dual Spals...and have over with it....

 

What are you using for the temp sensor and where is is located? Do you have it set up to turn on at 180* or so? I'm about to wire it myself. I was going to wire in the a/c to run the fan on low, but haven't thought enough on how to wire this so the low speed shuts off when the high temp circuit closes. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

Lurkin

 

Mine works great, well worth the dollars.

 

I've been trying to get ahold of the DC guy too. The website seems to be down. I've got my Lincoln fan but I've been waiting until I got one of his controllers before taking the electric cooling fan plunge. Of course, I've been waiting all summer. Is there another product that's close to his that works? Maybe just wiring a couple of relays to handle the load until I can get the DC setup (whenever that is!).

 

Wire the fan with a 30 amp relay controlled the way you like, I happen to have DPFI....so the computer controlls the fans at 180f....or so...

there are various ways to controll fan trigger temps....

now to get cute....you know on kitchen ovens...there is a capillary tube and a controll ****... find a junkyard stove with a contoller, carefully tear it out (or spend 50 bux for a new one) and adjust the screw to change the temps it turns on/off at.....

insert the probe in the coolent under a hose clamp with rtv and a secure clamp...let it set up/cure before system pressures are applied....
monitor with a temp probe of some sore, adjust the screw and the ****/shaft to the required settings.....

BTDT...it works....another form of junkyard engineering....

eh what????

 

I just bought a flex-a-lite controller from Summit Racing. It should do the job and has a slightly higher amp rating than the DCC controller. I am mainly looking for the soft start feature rather than the across the line start via relays. It actually is a bit cheaper so hopefully it works out.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=FLX-33054

Lurkin

 

The soft start feature is desirable because...........................?

 

So you don't whack your electrical system with a 100 amp spike?

 

All fine, but it's not hurting a thing....if you get nervous about it, put a fuse link in line there......or go to junkyard and get one of those 50 watt ~1 ohm fan resistors some foreign cars used....one each fan....

the Dual spals have much less inertia to turn over the blade than that 16 inch Lincoln fan.....so the current drains on speed up are much less over shorter time span.....

assuming of course the total suck/blow is the same....airflow....

 

So, are you going to install a soft start for the starter motor? Your not going to excede that spike.

 

BTW. The idiots at Detroit don't see this as a problem.

 

I don't know this for sure but I was told the standard GM big can starters only had a spike of about 30 amps, and the newer mini starters had around a 20 amp spike.

There was a guy that tested a MarkVIII fan and found it have a 104 amp spike, with extended 64 amp draw, and then a constant of around 30.

That's a big spike.

 

DB, obviously you are talking of two differant spikes.....

one is the inductive kickback spike, that is totally differant than the start surge, which is not really a 'spike' at all, except to current drain....

as such it can NOT hurt the electrical system.....

the starter used to typically draw up to 200 amps to start the car, hense the older super heavy starter cables....it was the starter motor directly turning on the Bendix gear....engaging the fly.....so the start currents were extremely high to get that engine flipping, then the drain was less....now when the starter motor was allowed to stop when engine fired, it's draw was much less....and so the inductive reverse spike from magnetic field collapse is much less.....depending on the decay it would be worth a few amps....but certainly higher than any known auto fan motor.....not betting on a Kenworth with electric fans....

on the initail start of a 16 inch fan, I don't doubt it could maybe reach 100 amps for maybe 100 ms or so.... but once that armature starts spinning, that current draws much less....which is why my comment above....

just for sake of discussion, lets assume the spals move air same as the Lincoln fan.....

two 11" fan blades will take much less current to torque up to speed....
less moment of intertia....surely there are two of them, but the motors must have to be smaller to be equal enough in total running airflow...so the drain is less, and speed up is greater.....which to my reasoning is less drain for shorter time on the electricals....

not that it matters much....

 

A battery is a natural surge suppressor. This DC guy has blown this WAY out of proportion.

 

Yes, and too boot, when the starter solenoid, (RELAY) opens the circuit the inductive kick of collapsing fields is presented to the open contacts....not an issue....

course if one wants perfect world it's possible to supress the spikes, but so what?? it's only good for metal detectors/TVs/maybe some other devices.......another topic entirely...

 

I got mine 3 days ago. I ordered it in the begining of July. It looks pretty simple to hook up. I should compliment my Lincoln fan nicely. Its like they say be patient and he will come through just dont expect it in the 3 to 4 weeks the website claims.

 

Lincoln used some sort of soft-start controller for the Mk. VIII fan...it doesn't just operate in on/off mode.

What Detroit does isn't always the best answer, anyway. Most everyone on this board can name a few examples of stupid engineering they've seen in various automobiles.

 

Should have seen the insulted look on that ME's face when I referred to it as Stupid Assed Engineering once, years ago.....it was precious.....

he and I were fairly good friends even after that comment....