Tuning & Timing mark jumps
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 106
Likes: 2
From: Pullman WA
The reason you couldn't seat the distributer is becuase of the oil pump drive shaft. The slot in this shaft didn't line up properly with the distributer gear key. Do your TDC drill on #1 cylinder again. If the distributer doesn't seat you will need to rotate the oil pump drive shaft a little with a screw driver. Keep making small adjustments until it drops into place.
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
When the distributor does seat, it will always turn the rotor some right? I made mark on the distributor housing of where the #1 post is, so when I seat the distributor, should the rotor point to that mark, then once it's seated it won't be pointing directly at it. Or, should the rotor point to that mark after it has been seated and rotated?
Thanks!
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Phenix Al
The reason for the backfire is you probably had the dist. 180 degrees out..just as long as it's pointing in the general direction of the mark you made..it can be fined tuned on start up ..
Last edited by Cvman74; Sep 14, 2007 at 01:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 106
Likes: 2
From: Pullman WA
The reason you couldn't seat the distributer is becuase of the oil pump drive shaft. The slot in this shaft didn't line up properly with the distributer gear key. Do your TDC drill on #1 cylinder again. If the distributer doesn't seat you will need to rotate the oil pump drive shaft a little with a screw driver. Keep making small adjustments until it drops into place.
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 1
From: North Bend Ohio
Sorry if this is a silly question- but to clarify...
When the distributor does seat, it will always turn the rotor some right? I made mark on the distributor housing of where the #1 post is, so when I seat the distributor, should the rotor point to that mark, then once it's seated it won't be pointing directly at it. Or, should the rotor point to that mark after it has been seated and rotated?
Thanks!
When the distributor does seat, it will always turn the rotor some right? I made mark on the distributor housing of where the #1 post is, so when I seat the distributor, should the rotor point to that mark, then once it's seated it won't be pointing directly at it. Or, should the rotor point to that mark after it has been seated and rotated?
Thanks!
Next, take the distributer cap off and mark where the rotor is pointing on the distributer body. Now, remove the distributer clamp.
As you raise the distributer out of the engine the rotor will turn. When the rotor stops turning mark the distributer body where the rotor is pointing. Remove the distributer from the engine.
Using these three marks and paying attention to the oil pump drive shaft orientation, you should be able to get the distributer back in the engine in exactly the same spot as before.
BigBlockk
Later.....
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Ideally, when pulling a distributer you should use three marks. The first is down by the clamp at the base. This will reference the distributer to the manifold.
Next, take the distributer cap off and mark where the rotor is pointing on the distributer body. Now, remove the distributer clamp.
As you raise the distributer out of the engine the rotor will turn. When the rotor stops turning mark the distributer body where the rotor is pointing. Remove the distributer from the engine.
Using these three marks and paying attention to the oil pump drive shaft orientation, you should be able to get the distributer back in the engine in exactly the same spot as before.
BigBlockk
Later.....
Next, take the distributer cap off and mark where the rotor is pointing on the distributer body. Now, remove the distributer clamp.
As you raise the distributer out of the engine the rotor will turn. When the rotor stops turning mark the distributer body where the rotor is pointing. Remove the distributer from the engine.
Using these three marks and paying attention to the oil pump drive shaft orientation, you should be able to get the distributer back in the engine in exactly the same spot as before.
BigBlockk
Later.....
This is how I do it every time. If a new distributor is going in it makes things more difficult but for the same one it's cake.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 105
Ideally, when pulling a distributer you should use three marks. The first is down by the clamp at the base. This will reference the distributer to the manifold.
Next, take the distributer cap off and mark where the rotor is pointing on the distributer body. Now, remove the distributer clamp.
As you raise the distributer out of the engine the rotor will turn. When the rotor stops turning mark the distributer body where the rotor is pointing. Remove the distributer from the engine.
Using these three marks and paying attention to the oil pump drive shaft orientation, you should be able to get the distributer back in the engine in exactly the same spot as before.
BigBlockk
Later.....
Next, take the distributer cap off and mark where the rotor is pointing on the distributer body. Now, remove the distributer clamp.
As you raise the distributer out of the engine the rotor will turn. When the rotor stops turning mark the distributer body where the rotor is pointing. Remove the distributer from the engine.
Using these three marks and paying attention to the oil pump drive shaft orientation, you should be able to get the distributer back in the engine in exactly the same spot as before.
BigBlockk
Later.....
thats' the way I have done it
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 106
Likes: 2
From: Pullman WA
Update
Well- I got the distributor back in properly, dwell, and base timing set, although I still do have timing scatter, though it doesn't seem to be as bad as before I got the distributor shimmed. Going to have to check the breaker plate and hopefully I won't have to replace the timing chain, looks like that is quite the job according to my manual. Well, it can at least wait til winter anyway. 
Also replaced my oil pan gasket with the one piece felpro, but still looks like I got a leak coming from the rear main seal. Yikes, might have to wait 'til after the car show this weekend!
Also replaced my oil pan gasket with the one piece felpro, but still looks like I got a leak coming from the rear main seal. Yikes, might have to wait 'til after the car show this weekend!
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
From: Seattle Wash.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
