thx for the info 
a brake line question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Temple TX
a brake line question
hey guys. I just ordered new brake lines for my 81 vette from one of our vendors. Not to bad. pre bent lines kit and a ss braid line set for $192 bucks. My question though is this. the only part im missing now is the "T" fitting which connects the back lines and leads them to the front. I woud like to try and reuse that before having to order one. But I can not locate it under the car. I figured it would be by the back diff. but to my surprise its not. I try following the line but end up losing it. Does anyone know where the "T" fitting is located? thx
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 929
Likes: 5
From: Marietta GA
The Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) would certainly give you the answer for sure. On my '68 the brass distribution block is at the rear of the car on the drivers side on the part of the frame ladder that goes under the differential. It is in front of and to the right of the left rear wheel. If you follow the brake line from the left rear caliper toward the front you will find it easily.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Are you prepared to lift the body off? I may be wrong but I think you have to lift or remove the body to replace the frame mounted hard lines.
Are these what you bought or are you referring to the hard lines that mount to the trailing arms?
Are these what you bought or are you referring to the hard lines that mount to the trailing arms?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
From: Temple TX
I found the "T" fitting on the driver side flex hose. Kinda a wierd place for it imo but at least found it. I am referring to all lines. I read that pre bent lines can be done in some frustrating hours if I just take my time. If it leads to the body be taken off then I will do just that.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 929
Likes: 5
From: Marietta GA
You're welcome. But don't be too happy. It ain't easy replacing the brake lines with the body on the car. I had a relatively easy time, but I have heard of people who had a real hard time doing it that way. Good luck to you!!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
You know, just a thought, if your body mounts are in rough shape it would be a good time to cut out the old bolts, raise the body a bit so you can easily replace the brake lines, and replace the body mounts with new hardware before setting it back down.
All you'd need is a jack and some lumber.
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,943
Likes: 44
From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
I replaced all my lines with the body on. The trick is to get the car off the ground as high as you can. This will give you room to work.
Additionally, if you have an Auto Trans it would be best to take the Trans X-member out.
Its kinda late now but I would have suggested that you bend your own lines. It makes them easier to install, its less expensive and after you mess around snaking the pre bent lines into position, they probably wont be "Pre" bent anyway.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.
Stu
Additionally, if you have an Auto Trans it would be best to take the Trans X-member out.
Its kinda late now but I would have suggested that you bend your own lines. It makes them easier to install, its less expensive and after you mess around snaking the pre bent lines into position, they probably wont be "Pre" bent anyway.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.
Stu
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,248
Likes: 786
From: Redondo Beach, California
Order stainless steel lines with stainless steel fittings. Also, always use new, unused brass distribution blocks. I bought my third set of lines from In-Line Tubing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
Nope, you can replace the brake lines without removing the body from the frame. I did it three times. (1) First try - installed a stainless steel line from front to back, but stripped the threads on the mild steel nut that was to have screwed into the brass distribution block that's near the drivers side trailing arm. (2) Second try - installed the line successfully at the rear, but when I went to connect to the MC distribution block, I discovered I had been sent lines for PB's and I have manual brakes. removed the line, ordered another. (3) Third Try - success. For the third try, I did the install really fast.
Order stainless steel lines with stainless steel fittings. Also, always use new, unused brass distribution blocks. I bought my third set of lines from In-Line Tubing.
Order stainless steel lines with stainless steel fittings. Also, always use new, unused brass distribution blocks. I bought my third set of lines from In-Line Tubing.
As stated, remove your AT crossmember before doing the frame line. If you have a 4-speed, you will need to bend the line to install it. You will be best to use a lift if this is the case.
Pro
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: Warrenville IL
Have to agree with those above. Just replaced my main line with prebent SS, without removing the AT crossmember. The hardest part was getting it around the corner behind the seat and over the frame rail.
Just a couple of tips:
- To remove the existing line, remove all the clips you can and then cut the clip under the seatbelt with a rotary tool like a dremel. Pull the old line out entirely, pull the fuel vapor line down (not out), flatten down the clip and then get a wrench in there to remove the bolt. Don't worry about replacing that clip until you replace the body mounts and raise that side of the car as Durango_boy mentions.
- Don't put the clips back on until you've got the line seated in the block and valve.
- Replace the brass distribution blocks.
- To connect the drivers side block, thread it on the line before you secure it to the frame, then tighten the line down in the block.
- Make sure you have a good set of flare wrenches
Just a couple of tips:
- To remove the existing line, remove all the clips you can and then cut the clip under the seatbelt with a rotary tool like a dremel. Pull the old line out entirely, pull the fuel vapor line down (not out), flatten down the clip and then get a wrench in there to remove the bolt. Don't worry about replacing that clip until you replace the body mounts and raise that side of the car as Durango_boy mentions.
- Don't put the clips back on until you've got the line seated in the block and valve.
- Replace the brass distribution blocks.
- To connect the drivers side block, thread it on the line before you secure it to the frame, then tighten the line down in the block.
- Make sure you have a good set of flare wrenches
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
Did SS lines on my 66 GTO, will do the same on my 81. It is highly suggested that you replace your brass dist. blocks when going to SS.You want a nice seat on virgin threads. Old blocks used with factory steel lines can cause leaks. This is what I found with the 66.