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Well I'm pretty far along on my T-5 install but now it is time to modify or make a trans mount bracket. The problem is I don't know how high or low to mount it. The body is off and I can't use that as a guide etc. I was thinking if I could get a dimension on a stock installed Muncie from the centerline of the output shaft to the top of the cross member that would get me close to where I need to be for driveshaft alignment for the T-5. Or if any of you have done this, how much do I have to drop from where the stock Muncie mount is to get the proper alignment? The last thing I want to do is get it all done and when I drop the body it's not at the right height. This frame has the removable cross member because it was a replacement frame put in 20+ years ago. Any help would be appreciated!
The important measurement is the driveline angle. If the diff yolk is 3 degrees off vertical for example, the transmission yolk should also be 3 degrees off in the opposite direction. I think if you are off by more than a degree or so you risk the chance of driveshaft vibration. I have to fab a mount for the t56 that I'm using and I'm going to have to go through the same hurdles. Good luck.
Are you using a ford or chevy T5. I used the stock ford T5 tranny mount which has the necessary angle for it to lean to the left. Under the mount I had to add spacers that raised the tranny about 1/2 inch. That should get you to the right height and have the u-joints at the right angles. Hope this helps. It is easy to adjust after the body is on if you have to.
Bernie
Bernie, It's a Ford T-5 and I'm using a Urethane mount for a Ford and it will have the correct lean because it will be square to the ground, but It would seem to be to high if I did what you suggest. I'll put it up where you suggest and check the drive shaft angles to see where they are at. There may be some variance in the Ford mounts thats why I was looking for a dimension from the centerline of the output shaft to the top of the cross member as that should put it close for a start.
You need to do this by setting the angle relative to the diff. There are threads on how to do this and some good explanations with diagrams on the net.
BTW, if you don't go with a yoke with caps it's going to be a bugger to ever get that shaft out again.
If the T5 is the same as a TKO (i.e. same as a C6), it's $200+ for the right yoke...
Have you tried contacting Kiesler? They're customer service is really good and the guys there are pretty knowledgable. They make a kit with the whole setup, but I think they'll sell you individual pieces and they make a bracket specifically for that.
The yoke is the press in cap style, $22.50 I have seen the threads and I have a digital inclinometer which should do the trick on reading the angles.
I have not talked to Keisler. It's no problem to fab a mount just don't want to do it twice. I will check if they already have a mount that would be great.
You need to do this by setting the angle relative to the diff. There are threads on how to do this and some good explanations with diagrams on the net.
BTW, if you don't go with a yoke with caps it's going to be a bugger to ever get that shaft out again.
If the T5 is the same as a TKO (i.e. same as a C6), it's $200+ for the right yoke...
Having a yolk with caps is the ideal, however if you polish the U-Joint cap bores on a cap less yolk you will be able to remove the shaft by disassembling the joint at the output shaft. Not that bad at all!
Mark
The important measurement is the driveline angle. If the diff yolk is 3 degrees off vertical for example, the transmission yolk should also be 3 degrees off in the opposite direction. I think if you are off by more than a degree or so you risk the chance of driveshaft vibration. I have to fab a mount for the t56 that I'm using and I'm going to have to go through the same hurdles. Good luck.
In the case of the T56 I ended up lowering the tail of the trans as far as I could go in the stock crossmember to get clearance in the tunnel. The T56 is 3 or 4" longer than the 4-speed, so the driveshaft angle comes from the side rather than from the top. My thinking was that the U-joints weren't going to care where the offset angle was as long as it was there. I have been driving the car for 2 summers now and I've had no vibration problems at all.
Thanks Rick, Using a T5 I'll have different measurement requirements but thanks for the pics. We're practically neighbors. I'd love to see what you've done sometime, maybe pick your brain. Awesome car.
Thanks Rick, Using a T5 I'll have different measurement requirements but thanks for the pics. We're practically neighbors. I'd love to see what you've done sometime, maybe pick your brain. Awesome car.
Sure. I'm the next town over from you. Send me a PM when you want to drop by and I'd be happy to show you the car.
When I did my T5 I used the same height that was there from the prior trans. Took a measurment from the top of the crossmember to the bottom of the driveshaft back by the rear mount area. Put it back at the same height. No vibrations, no problems.