Signals Light Up With Headlights.
#1
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Signals Light Up With Headlights.
Okay, back story.
Signals and flashers have never worked in this car.
I am back onto trying to figure out why. I have rebuilt the entire rear harness for the taillights, brake lights, and signal lights. Ground is good and all wires are connected properly to new sockets that all tested fine. New bulbs have been used and switched around.
The odd thing is, after putting the interior back in I have had a small issue. When I turn the headlights on, the signal arrows light up. Both of them. They light up and stay lit for as long as the headlights are on.
The taillights work great, same as the brake lights. The signals won't work, nor will the hazards, yet both arrows light when the headlight switch is pulled into the 'ON' position.
Any ideas?
Signals and flashers have never worked in this car.
I am back onto trying to figure out why. I have rebuilt the entire rear harness for the taillights, brake lights, and signal lights. Ground is good and all wires are connected properly to new sockets that all tested fine. New bulbs have been used and switched around.
The odd thing is, after putting the interior back in I have had a small issue. When I turn the headlights on, the signal arrows light up. Both of them. They light up and stay lit for as long as the headlights are on.
The taillights work great, same as the brake lights. The signals won't work, nor will the hazards, yet both arrows light when the headlight switch is pulled into the 'ON' position.
Any ideas?
#4
Race Director
Are you using bulbs with low draw? The flashers have to have heavy enough draw to "overload" them and make them flash.
#5
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All bulbs have been replaced with LED bulbs. I also installed inline resistors designed for LED bulbs on each socket's wiring. All four rear sockets are 1157 bulbs and each side act as a whole. Meaning, both on each side are taillight, brake, and signal.
The front wiring also has LEDs and resistors.
I should mention that the problem existed even before the LED bulbs were installed with the exception of the lit arrow symptom.
#6
Race Director
All bulbs have been replaced with LED bulbs. I also installed inline resistors designed for LED bulbs on each socket's wiring. All four rear sockets are 1157 bulbs and each side act as a whole. Meaning, both on each side are taillight, brake, and signal.
The front wiring also has LEDs and resistors.
I should mention that the problem existed even before the LED bulbs were installed with the exception of the lit arrow symptom.
The front wiring also has LEDs and resistors.
I should mention that the problem existed even before the LED bulbs were installed with the exception of the lit arrow symptom.
Lights didnt go out when you unplugged the flasher? Its wired wrong.
#7
Melting Slicks
#9
Race Director
No actually-- not enough.
#11
Race Director
One thing to look at since you says its always done this is the capacitor that is across to 2 terminals on the flasher--make sure it is a capacitor and not a resistor--if the cueeent is bypassing the flasher by going thru "it" the flasher might never get "hot" enough to break.Try removing whatever is there at the flasher-I'm not sure if a capacitor gone bad would an open or a diect path.
#12
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One thing to look at since you says its always done this is the capacitor that is across to 2 terminals on the flasher--make sure it is a capacitor and not a resistor--if the cueeent is bypassing the flasher by going thru "it" the flasher might never get "hot" enough to break.Try removing whatever is there at the flasher-I'm not sure if a capacitor gone bad would an open or a diect path.
There isn't one to begin with. Nothing but the flashers in the sockets. No capacitors OR resistors.
#13
Race Director
OK I F*&^ED up and did not read your original post well enough.I missed the whole issue--"When the headlights are turned on". I thought the issue was the turn signals would not flash.Give me a min. to rethink..Sorry..I'll reread and try to ENGAGE the old brain before typing. :o
(I'll be looking towards the grounds as pws69 stated.)
(I'll be looking towards the grounds as pws69 stated.)
#14
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On to the dash turn indicators-does one of the turn signals have to be on to get the dash indicators to light when the headlight switch is on?
Or will both dash ind. come on with "only" the headlight switch on?
#15
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Ok sorry for the brain disconnect.Need some more info.When you say the signals dont work do you mean they dont come on at all or the lights light but dont flash?
On to the dash turn indicators-does one of the turn signals have to be on to get the dash indicators to light when the headlight switch is on?
Or will both dash ind. come on with "only" the headlight switch on?
On to the dash turn indicators-does one of the turn signals have to be on to get the dash indicators to light when the headlight switch is on?
Or will both dash ind. come on with "only" the headlight switch on?
Okay. With no key in the ignition, the signal switch untouched, and the headlight switch pulled on the signal arrows light but nothing on the front or rear bulbs change.
I don't recall now if the bulbs or arrows come on when the switch is used. I will have to check that at lunch.
#16
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Okay, with the key in the IGN position and the headlights on, both of the signal arrows light up. The flasher button does nothing. The signal switch on the column does nothing.
With the key in the IGN position, and the headlights OFF, the hazard button lights up all bulbs and arrows with no flashing. The signal switch on the column affects only the side affected, and the lights just stay on with no flashing.
First, does this mean I don't have enough resistance? Do I need a capacitor at the terminals?
Why do the signal arrows light when the headlights are on regardless of hazard button and signal switch operation?
I don't want to drive around with those arrows lit up when the headlights are on.
With the key in the IGN position, and the headlights OFF, the hazard button lights up all bulbs and arrows with no flashing. The signal switch on the column affects only the side affected, and the lights just stay on with no flashing.
First, does this mean I don't have enough resistance? Do I need a capacitor at the terminals?
Why do the signal arrows light when the headlights are on regardless of hazard button and signal switch operation?
I don't want to drive around with those arrows lit up when the headlights are on.
#18
Melting Slicks
When you say "All bulbs have been replaced with LED bulbs.", what EXACTLY did you replace the original bulbs with?
- "Replacement" bulbs with standard "1157" configuration
or
- "Hacked" 1157's with LEDS that you put in there
I have been running LED tail lights for about 3 years now with no problems. No resistors or capacitors. Heavy duty flasher (which you have) can handle varying [resistance] loads so no additional resistors should be used. The only time you need to add resistors is when you use "raw" standard LED's because the 12V will fry them. 1157 replacement "LED BULBS" have the appropriate internal resistors to handle the 12V.
I still feel strongly that you have a ground problem.
- "Replacement" bulbs with standard "1157" configuration
or
- "Hacked" 1157's with LEDS that you put in there
I have been running LED tail lights for about 3 years now with no problems. No resistors or capacitors. Heavy duty flasher (which you have) can handle varying [resistance] loads so no additional resistors should be used. The only time you need to add resistors is when you use "raw" standard LED's because the 12V will fry them. 1157 replacement "LED BULBS" have the appropriate internal resistors to handle the 12V.
I still feel strongly that you have a ground problem.
#19
What wattage are your turn signal bulbs ??
Last edited by rihwoods; 09-26-2007 at 12:31 PM.
#20
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When you say "All bulbs have been replaced with LED bulbs.", what EXACTLY did you replace the original bulbs with?
- "Replacement" bulbs with standard "1157" configuration
or
- "Hacked" 1157's with LEDS that you put in there
I have been running LED tail lights for about 3 years now with no problems. No resistors or capacitors. Heavy duty flasher (which you have) can handle varying [resistance] loads so no additional resistors should be used. The only time you need to add resistors is when you use "raw" standard LED's because the 12V will fry them. 1157 replacement "LED BULBS" have the appropriate internal resistors to handle the 12V.
I still feel strongly that you have a ground problem.
- "Replacement" bulbs with standard "1157" configuration
or
- "Hacked" 1157's with LEDS that you put in there
I have been running LED tail lights for about 3 years now with no problems. No resistors or capacitors. Heavy duty flasher (which you have) can handle varying [resistance] loads so no additional resistors should be used. The only time you need to add resistors is when you use "raw" standard LED's because the 12V will fry them. 1157 replacement "LED BULBS" have the appropriate internal resistors to handle the 12V.
I still feel strongly that you have a ground problem.
These are my LED tail lights, and I have replacement 1157 ampber LED bulbs for the front.
I first thing I did was re-wire all my taillight sockets so both sockets on either side perform the same function. Meaning, when I turn on the lights...all four bulbs light up. When I step on the brake, all four lights get brighter. When I signal, both lights on that side flash.
The signals would come on and stay on so I installed the HD flashers. Didn't help much. Every now and then one side would blink and the other woudl not. Other times they would just stay on.
So, I added resistors. No change.