My steering valve is leaking on my 81, but works fine. has anybody rebuilt one of these? Or is it easier to replace it with a rebuilt unit. I am quite mechanical, but have never tore into one of those. Looking at difference between a $20 rebuild kit and a $100 valve. Any thoughts?

 

I prefer rebuilding them as it's not difficult. FYI, you can also purchase a new one if you are so interested. They all seem to leak way to quickly for me. I asked a major rebuilder of these and he told me to not grease them too often or too much and that when you do, have the engine running. I guess this prevents blowing a seal in the valve as it is then pressurized.

 

I rebuilt mine and I found it to be a PITA. The directions included from Zip, were poor as well. I bought a re-man, pre balanced one from Bairs and it worked great.

 

Since you are quite mechanical, try rebuild the valve you have. I would get a kit that includes a new ball stud and seats as well as new ball stud grease seal. The auto parts stores sell the $20 kits and they include the internal seals and a new adjusting nut, the minimum you need to get the valve operational again, the more inclusive kits run around $50.

There are 2 ways to remove the ball stud from the pitman arm. A pickle fork or a puller. The pickle fork method could damage the lower pitman shaft bearing or the valve ball stud. A small 2 jaw puller such as a tie rod or ball joint puller will fit up into the frame pocket and not cause excessive stress on the parts.

Before taking your valve apart, look at the Overhaul Manual or download Jim Shea's pages http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4and familiarize yourself with the exploded view and the parts so when you take it apart everything will go back together in the same order and orientation. You'll need to clean all the parts, so everything will get mixed up. The main seal that causes your leak, needs to go back in and seat correctly, or it will leak again.

Inspect the spool valve for scoring and the inside of the housing as well. If either is scored or shows wear, your rebuild might not work. You can grease the valve during assembly, so you won't need to grease it on the car for quite some time, which is another reason to make sure the kit you buy has a new grease seal and retainer for the top of the valve. When tightening the ball stud adjuster nut, there should be no play as the ball stud is moved. It should move by hand but no slop between the stud and seats.

 

I think I am going to give it a shot. Thanks for the advice. Worst case scenario I have to buy one and replace it anyways!