Starter question, Is it true?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 82
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From: Montgomery Alabama
Starter question, Is it true?
Alright, my car went into the shop in July because it would not start. My mechanic said something about the starter being turned or out of position. Now the car wont start again after 2 months of working fine. Number one, is what the mechanic said the possible problem, and number two should I just tell him to put a new starter in it? Tnaks for your help.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
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From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
What is it doing when you try to start it. Is it clicking, is the engine turning over or what. You could have battery problems or related electrical problems.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,943
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From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
Its difficult to give advice on based on the info provided.
Does the car try and turn over? Does anything happen when you turn the key? Is it completely dead? Does it make clicking sounds when the key is turned? Is there grinding noises when the key is turned?
Does the car try and turn over? Does anything happen when you turn the key? Is it completely dead? Does it make clicking sounds when the key is turned? Is there grinding noises when the key is turned?
Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 436
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From: Stavanger
Have you measured that the starter itself has power. If you dont have your problem could be eletrical.
If it has, and you youst have silence, I think the problem is the starter.
Ps. You need more power to turn the starter than you do to operate most other tings on the car. On my prevously / old battery the starter would not turn unless it was fully charged. but everything else on the car worked fine. (but i would hear the starter click in)
If it has, and you youst have silence, I think the problem is the starter.
Ps. You need more power to turn the starter than you do to operate most other tings on the car. On my prevously / old battery the starter would not turn unless it was fully charged. but everything else on the car worked fine. (but i would hear the starter click in)
Last edited by kayosnes; Oct 1, 2007 at 12:04 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Frederick Maryland
As said already, you need to see if your starter is getting current. If it is, then see what the current draw is. If the starter is bad, it can be drawing more amperage than the battery is capable of delivering.
Was your starter replaced several months ago, or simply adjusted in place? If it was replaced with a rebuilt unit, it's not unusual at all for it to be defective. I've seen few assembly line rebuilt parts worth much...they have a high failure rate...particularly carburetors and alternators. Starters and water pumps seem to have a better reliabilty rate in my experience, but it still happens.
You could also have a bad or out of adjustment neutral safety switch keeping your car from starting.
Was your starter replaced several months ago, or simply adjusted in place? If it was replaced with a rebuilt unit, it's not unusual at all for it to be defective. I've seen few assembly line rebuilt parts worth much...they have a high failure rate...particularly carburetors and alternators. Starters and water pumps seem to have a better reliabilty rate in my experience, but it still happens.
You could also have a bad or out of adjustment neutral safety switch keeping your car from starting.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 82
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From: Montgomery Alabama
Also, not to be rude, if you would have read my profile you would see that I am new to this and would like to receive schoolin. Thats where yall come in. Why else would I be here?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Ft. Walton Beach, Fl USA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
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From: eastern NC
Christian,
Check the ignition switch... (this is for '69-'79, but should be similar to your '82)
This is attached to the topside of the column near the bottom just above your feet. There is a rod that goes down the top of the column from the key switch and engages this switch. The switch has oblong slots so that it can be adjusted. If the rod does not push the switch internals quite far enough it will supply power to everything but will not engage the starter.
As you can see by looking at the picture the metal wraps around the switch and holds it tightly together. I have found the switch where the metal had relaxed and the switch was separating and not allowing consistent, full contact which make starting somewhat hit or miss.
You should be able to reach on top of the column about mid way and feel the rod. With the ignition switch in the start position, attempt to slide the rod further down. If the starter engages, you can loosen the screws that hold it in place and move the switch slightly toward the steering wheel, then re-tighten.
Good luck and let us know how the problem is resolved... GUSTO
This should probably be the first thing checked...
Check the ignition switch... (this is for '69-'79, but should be similar to your '82)
This is attached to the topside of the column near the bottom just above your feet. There is a rod that goes down the top of the column from the key switch and engages this switch. The switch has oblong slots so that it can be adjusted. If the rod does not push the switch internals quite far enough it will supply power to everything but will not engage the starter.
As you can see by looking at the picture the metal wraps around the switch and holds it tightly together. I have found the switch where the metal had relaxed and the switch was separating and not allowing consistent, full contact which make starting somewhat hit or miss.
You should be able to reach on top of the column about mid way and feel the rod. With the ignition switch in the start position, attempt to slide the rod further down. If the starter engages, you can loosen the screws that hold it in place and move the switch slightly toward the steering wheel, then re-tighten.
Good luck and let us know how the problem is resolved... GUSTO
This should probably be the first thing checked...
Last edited by GUSTO14; Oct 1, 2007 at 08:16 PM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 360
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hmmm this sounds really familiar...
First off before you buy anything or pay anyone else. If it is an automatic go outside and shift it not so gently through all the gears a few times and see if it will start. A bad neutral safety switch will allow there to be power to all accessories and lights but won't allow it to start. Sometimes they are just plain broken other times they need adjusting and for those times your late they need a good reminder that they aren't really broke yet.
You can replace the switch yourself or rewire a bad one in a jam. Most of these guys won't suggest rewiring it though. But it gets the job done.
I believe they have safety switches on the clutches for those of you with manuals, right?
First off before you buy anything or pay anyone else. If it is an automatic go outside and shift it not so gently through all the gears a few times and see if it will start. A bad neutral safety switch will allow there to be power to all accessories and lights but won't allow it to start. Sometimes they are just plain broken other times they need adjusting and for those times your late they need a good reminder that they aren't really broke yet.
You can replace the switch yourself or rewire a bad one in a jam. Most of these guys won't suggest rewiring it though. But it gets the job done.
I believe they have safety switches on the clutches for those of you with manuals, right?
Last edited by 74Blackfoot; Oct 1, 2007 at 08:28 PM.
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 285
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From: Ga.
Check your wiring harness coming from the starter. Mine came loose the other day I drove me crazy. Partial loose lights inside. Alway the way loose no power for anything. If thats ok get a remote start switch and hook it to the big connector on the starter, and put the other on the purple wire. Then hit the switch. If it starts cranking you have a wiring problem. You could also take the starter out and take it to Autozone, Advance or someone else. They will check it out for free.
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 10
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From: Pittsburgh Pa
The hard way
I found out the hard way i bought a starter from a local parts shop and 2 weeks later i was stranded next day i went to the local chevy dealer where i worked when i was 16 the parts manger said that corvettes had a speical spring in the starter due to the all the heat thats created undeer the hood i repalced it with a GM starter belive me the extra 30.00 was worth it 15 years later she still cranks good luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
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From: Centerville Louisiana
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Farmers Branch TX
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
Best thing to do is start at the problem and work backwards. Check easy quick things first, like moving the shifter and seeing if it cranks, checking for corrosion on battery/cable connections, if the easy things are good check inputs/outputs.
Check the power and ground to the starter and solenoid when cranking the key. If those are good, you just found a bad starter, if not, work backwards to the neutral safety switch, if it has a good output, then investigate the wiring in between, if it doesnt have good output signal, check its input and work back from there.
It can be complex learning all these things at once, but if you break the systems into small individual areas and use your diagnostics to rule things out, it becomes less of a daunting task.
and good luck
Check the power and ground to the starter and solenoid when cranking the key. If those are good, you just found a bad starter, if not, work backwards to the neutral safety switch, if it has a good output, then investigate the wiring in between, if it doesnt have good output signal, check its input and work back from there.
It can be complex learning all these things at once, but if you break the systems into small individual areas and use your diagnostics to rule things out, it becomes less of a daunting task.
and good luck