OK I have read approx 20 or so brake-bleeding methods through the forum’s search engine and none of them seem to address my problem.

Everything was perfect a few days ago during my last ride. That being said I just purchased a new Wilwood MC and wanted to install it before going to the track for the first time ever. That being said I have bench bleed the MC 2 times for 2 days to make sure all the air was settled and out of the system. I connected the hoses and started to bleed the system at the passenger’s rear inner then the outer. However, no fluid would come out no mater haw many times I pumped the brakes. I tried the right rear same thing and then I tried the fronts and nothing. I disconnected them at the P-valve and had someone tap the brakes once and fluid came squirting out. I tried to gravity bleeding for 2 days and nothing… I am also using speed bleeders that are brand new.

I know I can go with the vacuum system, but I do not want to go out and purchase something that might not be necessary especially if I have done this before with no issues. I have replaced all 4 calipers approx 8 months ago with no issues.

Occasionally a little fluid will come out maybe a few tablespoons or so but that is it.

Any other options? Is there a way to check the MC and make sure it is working properly?

Thanks in advance

 

I am having similar problems with my 82. If you bench bleed the MC its working. Start unhooking lines at the P-valve at try to force air from the front and rear lines until you get good air flow thru the lines. My rubber hoses swoll up and cut off everything. They just came in today. So hopefully this will take care of my problem. I know this is aggrivating but you have to start somewhere. I also bit the bullet and ordered a Motive power bleeder. I'm tired of begging for help to bleed brakes.

 

It is very fustrating how can i blow air in to the lines at the P valve as I do not have a compressor?

 

Beg, borrow, or steal. Maybe you could rent one.!

 

Should the pedal go all the down to the floor while pumping or should it be getting slightly hard as I continue to push?

 

K got another questions that may be nother issue.

Rod length..... when I push the MC on to the studs should there be any resistance..a little...a lot to push in so fluid will come out?

 

I know you don't want to hear it but I have been just as frustrated as you are a couple times in the past due to brake bleeding. I try to save money anyway possible and hate buying something I may only use once but recently my answer was the Motive power bleeder. 15 minutes and I was done. It don't get any easier. Just my .02 cents.

 

If the push rod is pushing the MC piston when you tighten up the 2 mounting nuts, you will NEVER get it bled out. The piston needs to retrack fully to open the fluid fill hole to the reservoir.

 

I know where you are coming from. I guess I am trying to figure out why it will not gravity feed before I try a power bleeder?
Is there such a thing as too much air in the lines?

 

As stated in my previous post, it will not gravity bleed or pressure bleed if the MC piston is not fully retracted. To confirm this is the problem, loosen the 2 mounting nuts and pull the MC forward, then see if it will gravity bleed.

 

Thanks I think that solved some of the problem because the rod was hitting the MC with 1/8 to 1/4 of and inch left till it sat cleanly on the booster.

However, talking to a few racing buddies they told me that the Wilwood (Part number 260-8556P) may have an internal pressure controll and that using it with the GM P-valve is likely messing things up even further.

Anyone familiar with this Wilwood MC...I know a few folks here are using them.....oh please tell me that this is true