Repairing vacuum tank??
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Tampa, Florida
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
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From: Wildwood IL
No...it can be wrestled out with only the MC moved out of the way.
Did mine that way. I got lucky and found a '72 3-port NOS on ebay for $100. The $50 coffee can tank I removed worked just fine. You'll have to re-route the vac lines cause it is only 2 port.
Fix your exisiting...
Eddie
Did mine that way. I got lucky and found a '72 3-port NOS on ebay for $100. The $50 coffee can tank I removed worked just fine. You'll have to re-route the vac lines cause it is only 2 port.
Fix your exisiting...
Eddie
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
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From: Santa Ana CA
My tank leaks, one actuator is bad an at least one relay (only checked one).
My options on the tank are:
1. Repair my '70 tank. $20 for a couple packs of JB weld.
2. Replace with '80-'82 tank. $50
3. Buy a used reconditioned modified '68-'69 tank. $350-No thanks
4. Buy a vacuun tank from Jegs or Summit. $80
How well do repaired tanks hold up and whats the preferred method for reapiring it? I know repair success is dependent on the severity of the leaks.
As far as the relays, any comments on Foriegn vs. domestic?
Jim
My options on the tank are:
1. Repair my '70 tank. $20 for a couple packs of JB weld.
2. Replace with '80-'82 tank. $50
3. Buy a used reconditioned modified '68-'69 tank. $350-No thanks
4. Buy a vacuun tank from Jegs or Summit. $80
How well do repaired tanks hold up and whats the preferred method for reapiring it? I know repair success is dependent on the severity of the leaks.
As far as the relays, any comments on Foriegn vs. domestic?
Jim
Buy a real '70 tank from me. I have two on the shelf and will take $100 (each) + shipping from 92705. Both are in fine condition, but could use some new paint.
I also have a pair of the ORIGINAL relays (with the correct top pattern) that still worked fine when removed.
Last edited by toddalin; Oct 3, 2007 at 07:01 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
I found out the hard way that with side mount headers NOTHING will fit down through the splash shield opening even with the shield removed.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 259
Likes: 2
From: Sacramento CA
I just did this on my 69 BB and there is no way that that tank will come out without taking to booster off. I unbolted the M/Cyl and moved it forward, removed the booster (major PITA) and removed the clutch rod. With all that out of the way you still have to wiggle it around until you get the mounting brackets in the right position and it will come out.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tampa, Florida
You missed Option 5...
Buy a real '70 tank from me. I have two on the shelf and will take $100 (each) + shipping from 92705. Both are in fine condition, but could use some new paint.
I also have a pair of the ORIGINAL relays (with the correct top pattern) that still worked fine when removed.
Buy a real '70 tank from me. I have two on the shelf and will take $100 (each) + shipping from 92705. Both are in fine condition, but could use some new paint.
I also have a pair of the ORIGINAL relays (with the correct top pattern) that still worked fine when removed.
I just did this on my 69 BB and there is no way that that tank will come out without taking to booster off. I unbolted the M/Cyl and moved it forward, removed the booster (major PITA) and removed the clutch rod. With all that out of the way you still have to wiggle it around until you get the mounting brackets in the right position and it will come out.
Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
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From: Space Coast Gator Territory
If you can't identify the leaky spot, or brazing doesn't hold, a two part epoxy will work. When I used to work in a custom motorcycle shop we regularly dropped the center on gas tanks to increase fuel capacity. After welding the seams we would coat the inside with a clear two part epoxy. Getting it inside your vacuum canister will be a challenge with such small nipple openings. If you find a way, you will need to get a few ounces in there to coat the inside for a good seal. Tape over any large holes to keep the epoxy inside. The nipple holes can be drilled out later.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Santa Ana CA
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tampa, Florida
Update. The F'ckin tank is out. What a F-in pain in the ***.
Heres the tally:
1. Remove master cyclinder from booster and move out of the way.
2. Disconnect clutch linkage under hood
3. Remove lower colum surrond and pulldown switch assembly
3. Disconnect brake light switch
4. Disconnect neutral safety switch
5. Disconnect clevis pin from brake arm
6. Unbolt booster from firewall...4 nuts up inside under dash
I'm looking at 7 cracks totaling 12+ inches. I have an extra tank on the way. whatever one has the fewest cracks is getting repaired.
Pics tomorrow,
Jim
Heres the tally:
1. Remove master cyclinder from booster and move out of the way.
2. Disconnect clutch linkage under hood
3. Remove lower colum surrond and pulldown switch assembly
3. Disconnect brake light switch
4. Disconnect neutral safety switch
5. Disconnect clevis pin from brake arm
6. Unbolt booster from firewall...4 nuts up inside under dash
I'm looking at 7 cracks totaling 12+ inches. I have an extra tank on the way. whatever one has the fewest cracks is getting repaired.
Pics tomorrow,
Jim
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: La Marque TX
What I was saying is that you don't even need that tank except for power brakes. If you have them then repairing is a quick and easy option but if you had changed to or were going to change away from vacuum assisted brakes you could take that tank out completely and not even worry about it.
That epoxy should work fine for a quick repair job.
That epoxy should work fine for a quick repair job.
What a bunch of misinformation, the brake booster isn't even connected to the vac tank
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Hmm...mine was. Very interesting. I didn't even really give it a second though when I disconnected it, capped the lines, and installed the Hydro.
You're right though, according to my vacuum schematics they were never connected from the factory.
Good catch, sorry about that.
