Tonights Adventure...Grrrr
Should they get that hot that fast?
I got ceramic coated block huggers, base L81 with mild cam, stock carb on a RPM intake and stock ignition
I did not expect that kind of heat
So now what to do about my plug wires??
HELP!!
Last edited by Jclgodale3; Oct 5, 2007 at 06:33 PM.
well one evening/night after a good hard run, I opened the hood in darkness....and the manifolds were glowing orange to yellow, really super hot...well yes, after a good run, HELL yes....easy to turn a piece of steel yellow with a propane torch that engine exhaust can do it to a set of headers in a flash....literally....
what made me pop the hood, was the gray looking appearance of the centers of the ram's horns, the part not fastened to the engine....the runners from the end cylinders....all 4 corner tubes were gray and somewhat stressed looking, but not cracked....looking kinds like they could crack though....3 years later they were still fine.....but you see, a TPI system, or any closed loop runs far leaner than most typical carb setups.....see posts from Norval/Strider about that topic.....
OH, and yes, replace the re do the wire routing....
and welcome to the headers burning wires and plug ends club....
Not that unusual. If the headers are new, I wouldn't use them until you've got it fully broken in. That way you can gently break in the headers. Well, maybe it's too late..
Even after the engine is broken in and driven for a while, it's not unusual to see the headers glow a slight pink/faint red especially at night when you can see it. I think the low level red color starts at about 800*F.
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I used to do that on the way out to a softball game on the highway, at 3500, for about fifteen - twenty minutes. Usually popped my hood to help let out the heat but the headers were never red, even in the failing light of the evening.
So, got to order new headers and plug wire set, will go ahead and dial in the carb and valves and then finish breakin
dammit
At a constant between 1500 and 2000 rpm, the temp should not exceed around 1000*.
If it approches this temp, advance the timing just a bit while the car is still running.
It just takes a few seconds to see the temp retreat if the timing was too retarded.
If my new headers approached 1000*, I would want to know it.
LOok at them in pitch dark....totally black after a good run...quickly pop the hood, and see them....orange to yellow glo fading fast in steel tubes, takes longer with iron rams horns....and with leaner TPI or any DPFI for that matter running closed loop, it's running hotter yet....
course if you have a set of spals on running, they MAY cool the things down faster than you can get out...but not the iron...that takes a while....
I believe that, I'm just wondering why the extra heat is common with a fresh build. Is it the extra friction from rings that have not seated and things like that?




















