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Change Q-Jet jets on engine or off?

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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 04:37 PM
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Default Change Q-Jet jets on engine or off?

I rebuilt my q-jet and now would like to try 1 jet size smaller. Is it easier to change the jets on the car or to take the carb off?

I rebuilt it for my zz4 in my 1980 vette and I am happy to say that the transition from idle to full throttle is now smooth with no hesitation. I followed the Cliff Ruggles book. I do think it might be a little rich so I want to try the jet change. Compared to the edlebrock 600 (1406?) carb on the zz4 or the q-jet with my original engine, I lost about 10% fuel economy (15.5 mpg to 14 mpg). Not the end of the world but I thought that I might get a little more performance and economy if now I am too rich and I change the jets. If the change is wrong I will put the other jets back in. The "tip in" test indicates that I am not too lean.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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If the WOT fuel mixture is good you really shouldn't change the jets. The main metering rods have more to do with cruise mixture and fuel mileage. If you want to lean out the cruise mixture go with a larger rod.

BigBlockk

Later.....
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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i'd change them with the carb on the car . . .
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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I also agree with both the above posts. If you do change them, do it on the car but change the rods for better part throttle economy. Just pull off the air horn.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 01:39 AM
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Didnt you guys watch 'My Cousin Vinny'? Change them off the car.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 06:33 AM
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Default Thanks for the responses

Cliff Ruggles believes in adjusting the APT (adjustable part throttle) to fine tune the part throttle mixture. He set me up with rods that have a greater taper from off idle to WOT. I am currently running with the APT as lean as it will go. It may be the right thing to go with a leaner rod but since I already bought the jets, I will try them first. If I lose something at part throttle, I will adjust the SPT. If I lose something at WOT I will change the jets back and try to get new rods with this taper. If this gets too frustrating I will go back to where I started with the rods and jets from Cliff or stock!

For more info, I always had some hesitation with the stock engine and carb since I bought it in 1984. The stock jets were .071 with .043 rods (.026 at WOT). The new jets are .077 but the rods are .036 at WOT. With these rods I calculate that .075 jets would be the same at WOT as stock. I am going to try .076. He also turned down the Secondary rods from .0565 (CH) to .045. The good news is it runs well. The bad news is we changed a lot all at once.

Thanks for the responses!
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Black_80
Cliff Ruggles believes in adjusting the APT (adjustable part throttle) to fine tune the part throttle mixture. He set me up with rods that have a greater taper from off idle to WOT. I am currently running with the APT as lean as it will go. It may be the right thing to go with a leaner rod but since I already bought the jets, I will try them first. If I lose something at part throttle, I will adjust the SPT. If I lose something at WOT I will change the jets back and try to get new rods with this taper. If this gets too frustrating I will go back to where I started with the rods and jets from Cliff or stock!

For more info, I always had some hesitation with the stock engine and carb since I bought it in 1984. The stock jets were .071 with .043 rods (.026 at WOT). The new jets are .077 but the rods are .036 at WOT. With these rods I calculate that .075 jets would be the same at WOT as stock. I am going to try .076. He also turned down the Secondary rods from .0565 (CH) to .045. The good news is it runs well. The bad news is we changed a lot all at once.

Thanks for the responses!
I've reworked my carb according to Cliff's book also and have seen a dramatic improvement in performance. I'm still not satisfied with it but it's getting there.
When you said hesitation, are you referring to light throttle response or when stomping on the gas going to WOT??

Bill
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by TopGunn
I've reworked my carb according to Cliff's book also and have seen a dramatic improvement in performance. I'm still not satisfied with it but it's getting there.
When you said hesitation, are you referring to light throttle response or when stomping on the gas going to WOT??

Bill
Bill, I don't have any hesitation now. The hesitation was with the original motor for the 20 years I owned it before I put in the zz4 motor. It wasn't light throttle. It hesitated with medium throttle or if I stomped on it.

With the new motor, I first installed a Barry Grant that was supposed to be set up for the motor. It smelled of gas and blew out black smoke it was so rich and had a very rough idle. I have to admit it accelerated well. I then installed the Edlebrock 600 but that didn't have as much power and hesitated a little. Since I rebuilt the Q-jet there is no hesitation and better performance than the Edelbrock. I don't think it is quite as fast as the Barry Grant. In following Cliff's book, I did "recipe 1". I sent him an email question and he told me to call him. He spent quite a bit of time on the phone. I did a lot of the work but sent it to him to bush the primaries and reduce the size of the main air bleeds. Everything is "recipe one" except the rods and jets that he recommended on the phone.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 09:01 PM
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Very interesting, I did the same only used recipe #2. Reason I asked about the hesitation was, mine had a hesitation/bog when going to WOT before so I notched out the secondary air flaps just slightly as he shows in the book. It's much more responsive now.
I had the air horn off yesterday and by accident I discovered the secondary butterflies were only opening about 30% of the way due to the throttle linkage setup. Might be worth checking on yours also, I bet I gained 50 hp by getting them all the way open!
No adjustment on these cars that I could find, I had to bend the gas pedal linkage which is crazy but it does seem to cure the problem.

Good luck with yours.

Bill
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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Being able to adjust the apt on the fly, by knocking out the plug and threading for an allen set screw makes it really easy to see instant results.





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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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Boy you got that right Noonie! I need to do that..mine doesn't have a plug there though, there's a circle in the casting right where it should be but for some reason there's no hole. It's a real pain taking thar airhorn off all the time, I gotta get out the drill for sure!
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 05:32 AM
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Noonie, I see that you reduced the size of your main air bleeds also. Did you follow the Ruggles book? Glad to hear that adjusting the APT was a big help. That is why I want to try the smaller jets. My APT is now as lean as it can go allowing the rods to go in as far as they can.

Top Gun, I think that mine looked like a circle over the APT. I think it was a plug. Anyway, Cliff removed that and taped it for me.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Black_80
That is why I want to try the smaller jets. My APT is now as lean as it can go allowing the rods to go in as far as they can.
Black80........Do the tip in test described in Cliffs book at 2000 rpm. Keep raising the APT until little or no rpm increase is noticed. If the adjustment is all the way up then increase the jet size 1 increment and repeat the test.

Bill
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Black_80
Noonie, I see that you reduced the size of your main air bleeds also. Did you follow the Ruggles book? Glad to hear that adjusting the APT was a big help. That is why I want to try the smaller jets. My APT is now as lean as it can go allowing the rods to go in as far as they can.

Top Gun, I think that mine looked like a circle over the APT. I think it was a plug. Anyway, Cliff removed that and taped it for me.
Pretty well the same as what Ruggles does. Then go to smaller jets.
Also drilled out the idle screw holes to get better idle adjustment.
The post 75 smog carbs are great, but set up way too lean for tuning purposes on modified engines.
Works perfectly at all rpms.

Holleys are set up way too rich and I drill them to make the idle circuit a lot leaner.
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