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Rear Suspension Work - Advice?

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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 12:56 PM
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Default Rear Suspension Work - Advice?

I just posted the same for the front but figured I'd do it separately. I'm just trying to get a good feel for what is necessary for replacement on my 73. It has nothing broken, etc in the suspension, its just old and worn out.

So, what are typical components that are replaced during a rear end overhaul? Can anyone recommend one of the bushing kits from one of the many offered? Are there additional parts that "might as well" be replaced at the same time?

I also need to do brakes in the rear and fix the e-brake, which I assume will consist of a rebuild kit, as it operates, it just doesn't hold the car.

Do I need to get into a leaf spring replacement or are bushings usually a good remedy for an aging suspension?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 02:53 PM
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I completely rebuilt the rear end on my '75, I had to. My trailing arms were shot, the brakes needed significant work, the rear differential cover was cracked where the leaf spring bolts into it, the front mount of the differential needed a new bushing and pinion seal, etc.

If you are looking to completely overhaul the rear end I would get the following replaced or rebuilt:
  • Rebuild the Parking Brake - do it in stainless steel - I might even have a kit from Ecklers or Corvette Central that I didn't use, PM me if interested.
  • Replace the Trailing Arm bushings - a pain as the whole arm has to come out but worth it. You will already be disassembling everything else, you don't want to do that again in the future because you didn't do this now.
  • Rebuild/Replace the Spindle Bearings- since you've got the arm off
  • Trailing Arm - give yours a good looking over. Make sure it is sound. Mine wasn't and I actually opted to buy fully assembled replacements that had bushings, bearings, spindle, spindle support, caliper mount, parking break, etc. already installed. If you arm is good, just clean it up while you've got it out.
  • Replace the Shocks
  • Replace the Strut Rod bushings
  • Replace the Leaf Spring - Can't hurt you and it is relatively cheap. A traditional steel multileaf replacement is $100-$150 and fiberglass is like $300-$350. If you go fiberglass make sure you have the ehaust shield that mounts below the differential & sping. I've heard that some of the fiberglass springs have failed to do heat damage from the exhaust. Check the rear differential cover for damage due to the spring bolts. Mine were completely broken off.
  • Replace the Leaf Spring bolts & cushions
  • Replace U-joints - on the half shafts and drive shaft
  • Replace Differential front mount bushing- would be a good time to drop the differential if necessary to replace the rear cover, pinion seal or to change the fluids.
  • Replace Sway bar & end-linkbushings
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Thanks for the good information, exactly what I was looking for. My car doesn't sound like it has the same issues yours did so maybe I can save a bit of $$....sounds like your job could have cost a couple bucks.

Obviously I can go add everything up but what can I expect to spend for a complete rear end overhaul?
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 09:07 PM
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check for differential side yoke play while you have it apart. if it's never been rebuilt, chances are the rear end needs one.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 09:50 PM
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Not to hijack this thread, more to add to it, how difficult is this kind of work? Compare to an engine swap. Harder? Easier? Same?

Let's say we're working with a 30 year old car here, and the rear suspension's never been touched. Are we expecting some bruised knuckles and lotsa cursing, or is this not that bad.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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ajkogut, sent you a pm
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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check for differential side yoke play while you have it apart. if it's never been rebuilt, chances are the rear end needs one.
Doh... New I missed something.


Not to hijack this thread, more to add to it, how difficult is this kind of work? Compare to an engine swap. Harder? Easier? Same?

Let's say we're working with a 30 year old car here, and the rear suspension's never been touched. Are we expecting some bruised knuckles and lotsa cursing, or is this not that bad.
Not horrible in terms of work. Really depends on how much rust you've got. In my case I had to sawzall out the Trailing Arm bolts and one shock bolt. I'm a rookie and it wasn't that bad.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by wjsullivan
Doh... New I missed something.




Not horrible in terms of work. Really depends on how much rust you've got. In my case I had to sawzall out the Trailing Arm bolts and one shock bolt. I'm a rookie and it wasn't that bad.

also had to sawzall out the trailing arm bolts. actually the area where i found most rust on my car.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jwp75v
ajkogut, sent you a pm
Jake:

Much appreciated. I will give you a call tomorrow and we can talk. Thanks again!
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
Jake:

Much appreciated. I will give you a call tomorrow and we can talk. Thanks again!
Drew, me(Ross) and Jake N Roy in Ypsi are all C3 guys who have helped each other out on our C3 projects. we will b happy to assist u
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ajkogut
I also need to do brakes in the rear and fix the e-brake, which I assume will consist of a rebuild kit, as it operates, it just doesn't hold the car.
If you do the rear wheel bearings, MAKE SURE YOU DO THE PARKING BRAKE then with the SS shoes and hardware. I've just done same with the spindle in place and it is one he** of a ballbuster to do cause you have a real hard time with the shoe retaining sping/retainer/pin install.



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