How do I remove Headlight Switch
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
How do I remove Headlight Switch
Hi,
I think my headlight switch is shot. Have interior light and exterior but no guage lights. Lights for parking break and seat belt etc... work ok.
What is the easiest way to remove the switch and check it? Do I need to remove any of the dash?
Thanks!
I think my headlight switch is shot. Have interior light and exterior but no guage lights. Lights for parking break and seat belt etc... work ok.
What is the easiest way to remove the switch and check it? Do I need to remove any of the dash?
Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
What year is your car? You don't have any of your profile information filled out.
In most C3s, you can just remove the screws that hold the side and top of the driver's knee pad in and pull it away enough to get your hands in there.
There are two on the sides and three across the top. You might even want to remove the one from the gauge bezel.
Pull the knee pad out a bit and you will see the headlight switch.
First, wrestle the plug off of the body of the switch. There will be two vacuum lines attached to nipples on the switch. Note which one goes where and remove them too.
Then, pull the **** all the way out. There will be a small spring loaded metal button on the switch body. Push that in and pull the **** all the way out. The **** has to be in the out position before you push that button though.
On the back, there is a small screw that's hard to get to that holds a bracket that steadies the switch body. Try to get a bit back there and get that screw out. Then, unscrew the jamb jut on the front of the pad that holds the threaded part of the switch through the hole.
The switch will then come out.
Reverse that whole process to install the new switch.
In most C3s, you can just remove the screws that hold the side and top of the driver's knee pad in and pull it away enough to get your hands in there.
There are two on the sides and three across the top. You might even want to remove the one from the gauge bezel.
Pull the knee pad out a bit and you will see the headlight switch.
First, wrestle the plug off of the body of the switch. There will be two vacuum lines attached to nipples on the switch. Note which one goes where and remove them too.
Then, pull the **** all the way out. There will be a small spring loaded metal button on the switch body. Push that in and pull the **** all the way out. The **** has to be in the out position before you push that button though.
On the back, there is a small screw that's hard to get to that holds a bracket that steadies the switch body. Try to get a bit back there and get that screw out. Then, unscrew the jamb jut on the front of the pad that holds the threaded part of the switch through the hole.
The switch will then come out.
Reverse that whole process to install the new switch.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 5
From: Granbury, TX
I've had the switch out a few times on my '82.
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7BA7030F0CEA89
Pull off the AC duct under the steering wheel, then reach up and push the button on the side of the switch to release the the shaft connected to the ****.
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7BA7030F0CEA89
Pull the shaft out. With a screw driver or specilty tool,
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7BA7030F0CEA89
remove the slotted nut holding the switch to the dash.
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7BA7030F0CEA89
Then you can unplug the wires and vacuum lines. Plug wires and vaccum lines on the new switch. Make sure the new switch works before you re-install.
BTW, depending on the year, your parts and procedure may vary.
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7BA7030F0CEA89
Pull off the AC duct under the steering wheel, then reach up and push the button on the side of the switch to release the the shaft connected to the ****.
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7BA7030F0CEA89
Pull the shaft out. With a screw driver or specilty tool,
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7BA7030F0CEA89
remove the slotted nut holding the switch to the dash.
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...7BA7030F0CEA89
Then you can unplug the wires and vacuum lines. Plug wires and vaccum lines on the new switch. Make sure the new switch works before you re-install.
BTW, depending on the year, your parts and procedure may vary.
Last edited by Clint's C3; Oct 8, 2007 at 04:56 PM.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 618
Likes: 0
Read Durango's description, it's dead-on. I just replaced mine this weekend. I removed the two bolts that attach the steering column to the dash, so the column would drop an inch or two. That makes it easier to pull the speedo cluster dash out a little. It only has to come forward about 4 inches, and you can then access the headlight switch.
When you go to remove the switch ****, you have to really push down hard on that spring button on the top of the headlight switch, to get the **** to release from inside it. Mine was really stuck, and it took about 5 minutes of wrestling with it before it came out of the switch. After that, it was a breeze. New one works much better, too. Good luck.
When you go to remove the switch ****, you have to really push down hard on that spring button on the top of the headlight switch, to get the **** to release from inside it. Mine was really stuck, and it took about 5 minutes of wrestling with it before it came out of the switch. After that, it was a breeze. New one works much better, too. Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
DBs method may work, I havn't tried it,, that is pulling the speedo and tach carrier w/o droping the steering column, i hope it works, because if I ever have to replace mine again, that's what I'm going to try. Anyway, the factory correct way to change it is like this on a pre-78 Vette (ie No access to the switch from the bottom of the dash).
You must drop the steering column.
Position the steering wheel so that the two bolts at the rag joint are at 3 and 9 o'clock. Remove these bolts. Note they are different sizes, remember which is which.
Remove the reverse ingnition key lockout cable and outer housing from the column plate engine side.
Remove the two Nuts on the inside fire wall that hold the steering column plate to the fire wall.
Remove the round head bolt towards the center side of the column plate, engine side, then rotate the plate CW and remove it.
Remove the 2 bolts under the dash holding the steering column up, be prepared for it to drop when you do this. Do not have your Head under it
With the steering column correctly dropped, and the stress off the lower bearing, you can now follow DB dirrections.
when you reinstall the column,, first lightly thred the column hold up bolts in, leaving lots of free play in the lower column. Have a friend position the lower column onto the pins at the rag joint as you put these bolts in lightly 2-3 turns.
Put the rag joint bolts back in, note they are a different size, as above. Now torque the column hold up bolts to 15 ft/lbs, per spec, that's all.
Now reinstall the engine side firewall plate. that order keeps the stress off the steering column during re-assembly.
What fun!!!
just NEVER ask your self,, why? that's the correct way for a head light switch for a 68-76/77. hope you have a 78-82.
You must drop the steering column.
Position the steering wheel so that the two bolts at the rag joint are at 3 and 9 o'clock. Remove these bolts. Note they are different sizes, remember which is which.
Remove the reverse ingnition key lockout cable and outer housing from the column plate engine side.
Remove the two Nuts on the inside fire wall that hold the steering column plate to the fire wall.
Remove the round head bolt towards the center side of the column plate, engine side, then rotate the plate CW and remove it.
Remove the 2 bolts under the dash holding the steering column up, be prepared for it to drop when you do this. Do not have your Head under it
With the steering column correctly dropped, and the stress off the lower bearing, you can now follow DB dirrections.
when you reinstall the column,, first lightly thred the column hold up bolts in, leaving lots of free play in the lower column. Have a friend position the lower column onto the pins at the rag joint as you put these bolts in lightly 2-3 turns.
Put the rag joint bolts back in, note they are a different size, as above. Now torque the column hold up bolts to 15 ft/lbs, per spec, that's all.
Now reinstall the engine side firewall plate. that order keeps the stress off the steering column during re-assembly.
What fun!!!
just NEVER ask your self,, why? that's the correct way for a head light switch for a 68-76/77. hope you have a 78-82.
Last edited by RunningMan373; Oct 9, 2007 at 05:18 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,012
Likes: 5
From: Granbury, TX
DBs method may work, I havn't tried it,, that is pulling the speedo and tach carrier w/o droping the steering column, i hope it works, because if I ever have to replace mine again, that's what I'm going to try. Anyway, the factory correct way to change it is like this on a pre-78 Vette (ie No access to the switch from the bottom of the dash).
You must drop the steering column.
Position the steering wheel so that the two bolts at the rag joint are at 3 and 9 o'clock. Remove these bolts. Note they are different sizes, remember which is which.
Remove the reverse ingnition key lockout cable and outer housing from the column plate engine side.
Remove the two Nuts on the inside fire wall that hold the steering column plate to the fire wall.
Remove the round head bolt towards the center side of the column plate, engine side, then rotate the plate CW and remove it.
Remove the 2 bolts under the dash holding the steering column up, be prepared for it to drop when you do this. Do not have your Head under it
With the steering column correctly dropped, and the stress off the lower bearing, you can now follow DB dirrections.
when you reinstall the column,, first lightly thred the column hold up bolts in, leaving lots of free play in the lower column. Have a friend position the lower column onto the pins at the rag joint as you put these bolts in lightly 2-3 turns.
Put the rag joint bolts back in, note they are a different size, as above. Now torque the column hold up bolts to 15 ft/lbs, per spec, that's all.
Now reinstall the engine side firewall plate. that order keeps the stress off the steering column during re-assembly.
What fun!!! just NEVER ask your self,, why? that's the correct way for a head light switch for a 68-76/77. hope you have a 78-82.
You must drop the steering column.
Position the steering wheel so that the two bolts at the rag joint are at 3 and 9 o'clock. Remove these bolts. Note they are different sizes, remember which is which.
Remove the reverse ingnition key lockout cable and outer housing from the column plate engine side.
Remove the two Nuts on the inside fire wall that hold the steering column plate to the fire wall.
Remove the round head bolt towards the center side of the column plate, engine side, then rotate the plate CW and remove it.
Remove the 2 bolts under the dash holding the steering column up, be prepared for it to drop when you do this. Do not have your Head under it
With the steering column correctly dropped, and the stress off the lower bearing, you can now follow DB dirrections.
when you reinstall the column,, first lightly thred the column hold up bolts in, leaving lots of free play in the lower column. Have a friend position the lower column onto the pins at the rag joint as you put these bolts in lightly 2-3 turns.
Put the rag joint bolts back in, note they are a different size, as above. Now torque the column hold up bolts to 15 ft/lbs, per spec, that's all.
Now reinstall the engine side firewall plate. that order keeps the stress off the steering column during re-assembly.
What fun!!!
just NEVER ask your self,, why? that's the correct way for a head light switch for a 68-76/77. hope you have a 78-82.
I'm glad I have an '82. 
